Motovation frame sliders fitted

[mq105]

ROD,

Do you have to take the sliders off to get the fairings off?

[ravi4l]

hey Guy I been reading about these Motovation frame sliders I have 05 ABS and where i suppose to put the rite side Bolt there in some kinda small Box connected there can some please help if they have Done this on ABS thanx

Ravi

[Das Bone]

hey Guy I been reading about these Motovation frame sliders? I have 05 ABS and where i suppose to put the rite side Bolt there in some kinda small Box connected there can some please help if they have Done this on ABS thanx

Ravi

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :beer:

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Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly

[Das Bone]

ROD,

Do you have to take the sliders off to get the fairings off?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No, with the MV's you do not have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings.

[kaldek]

No, with the MV's you do not have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's odd, because I find it rather tricky to get the fairing off without removing the sliders first. I suppose that's because of the way I remove them - I remove all the bolts and then lift the fairing away from the frame while pulling backwards gently to unlock it from the clips at the front.

Kaldek

[Guest oz-e]

That's odd, because I find it rather tricky to get the fairing off without removing the sliders first.  I suppose that's because of the way I remove them - I remove all the bolts and then lift the fairing away from the frame while pulling backwards gently to unlock it from the clips at the front.

Kaldek

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I don't have to remove the sliders to pull the fairing off. Undo all the fastenings, pull the fairing out at the back to clear the sliders, then pull gently back to release the front clips. Same as you do ... just have to pull the fairing out a bit more to clear the sliders first.

Dave

[teleskier]

Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.

[Das Bone]

Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think you're confusing the MV's with some of the "panel protector" units. The MV's use the rear most engine mount bolt (there are two ya know) that's just like the engine bolt that you use for your R&G's...it's just a few inches further to the rear of the bike.

So, I don't know where you think a bracket is involved?

Exactly the same mounting situation as the R&G's.

As I mentioned above, the difference is that the R&G's use a solid rod that goes all the way through the "engine" per say....to which I refered to above as "way sturdy"(that's a compliment BTW) and that the R&G's came with a premodded coolant bottle, that due to their more forward mounting postion just has the leading edge cut out and resealed, i.e. the customer does not have to deal with modding the coolant bottle, but one does have to remove the R&G's to remove the fairing, and finally that they are more expensive which is all factual.

So like I said, it seems like you're confusing or misunderstanding about the MV's which I'm not sure how you could have due to all the posts and info on this thread and others that have been on the same topic.

Personally, I feel that members here should get accurate info so that's why I felt the need to correct what you had said and provide factual info about these units.

Read these post and the others on sliders and I think you'll see that you misinterpreted some stuff somewhere along the way. B)

[ravi4l]

I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit  :beer:

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Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thanx for the pic i look around and flipped the Bottom Bracket that connect to the Frame and bolted where you did worked fine and don;'t have to make bracket for it either.

thanks for help i'll post the pic tomorrow...

thanks

ravi

[kaldek]

Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Wow are you smoking weed or something? There must be about 15 pics in this thread which show the Motovation sliders bolting to the engine via 6 inch bolts with a 12.9 tensile strength.

The Motovation sliders do not bolt to any brackets. They bolt directly to the engine and frame and are extremely strong. The bolts are specifically designed to bend rather than snap under extreme pressure.

The only mention in this entire thread about brackets was referring to the bracke that the EVAP purge cannister solenoid uses. It sits right where the frame sliders need to go, so Das Bone made up a new bracket for the solenoid.

Kaldek

[Rivcyko]

I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit  :goofy:

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Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

F%#k,....Thank you! I'm think'n, "Coolant bottle, coolant bottle,...uhh,...What do I do about this?..." LOL.

[JETS]

B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.

I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al.

But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed

[JETS]

B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.

I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al.

But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed. Here is a shot of my confession of guilty damage to my poor VFR. And after a tear-down and alignment check-up, the poor thing just got back out on the track and ran straight and true without a blip.

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naked.jpg

[Trace]

B) I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea? of trying to avoid plastic damage so much.

But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

oldfart--excellent post!! Thank you for that "first-hand experience" insight.

And so sorry your bike was "embarassed" in its nekkedness! I figured it would be proud of its big....hard.....firm....throbbing....protruding.....exhaust!! :P :P

[kaldek]

B) I hope no one  "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and  flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I see your point. Then again, there's so much stuff on the side of a VFR that could dig in and flip it,a nd it also depends whether it digs in with the "top" of the bike facing in the direction of the slide or the wheels are travelling in that direction. In the latter case the bike would just stop. It's only the former case where the bike would flip.

Anyway I consider the footpegs, bars, centre and side stand as all likely flipper culprits.

Kaldek

[Rivcyko]

Stupid question. The epcv unit, I am assuming, is not using a ground to the frame? Doesn't appear so. But if I don't over think, I usually screw myself. And I'm no good at electrical.

Thanx!

[magellan]

Stupid question. The epcv unit, I am assuming, is not using a ground to the frame? Doesn't appear so. But if I don't over think, I usually screw myself. And I'm no good at electrical.

Thanx!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No, it doesn't. Even if it did, you'd be okay with a homemade metal strap as pictured above.

[Rivcyko]

Sweet! Thanx, Magellan. Make'n a stainless bracket. Got a couple of variations to the install, I'll post later.

[Rivcyko]

Okay, here it is.

I ask forgiveness for the cleanliness of my ride. Refuse to detail under the body, until I break into the valve job.

My coolant bottle job is not as clean as Rod's. (Nice work, sir).

Start with the bottle. Originally wanted to plastic weld it. My air compressor is on the fritz, and I have not used my, (or any other), plastic welder yet. I only have the one bottle and didn't want to screw myself. Started with the hole small, then hit it with the small drum sander. This way, I would have more of the top of the bottle, in tact. (The plastic stretches, when hot). I epoxied the top of the sleeve, to hold it in place, so I could trim it more evenly. (Again, nice work Rod. LOL.) Would have ran epoxy around the whole thing, but, again, I only have the one, and wanted to go with the sure thing.

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2 stretching tube.JPG

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3 epoxied top.JPG

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4 trimmage.JPG

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8 bracket,zip,tie,&plug.JPG

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9 bracket,ziptie2.JPG

CHECK the plugs! They're caps from a wire rack. Had to lose the motovation stickers, and re-make the ends of the graphics, too. The next pic, the touch-up paint has not been buffed yet.

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on not attached no buff.JPG

Thanks folks! Hats-off to you-all!

Travis

[VifferPilot]

I got my MV frame Sliders installed today thanks to all who contributed to this "How to". VFRD Rocks!!!

[Das Bone]

:thumbsup:

For those that are saying that frame sliders might be worse than without......well sure it's possible. There's absolutely no guarantees with this kind of thing as there are just too many variables in a get off/ drop/crash.

Anything can happen. There was an article in one of the UK mags about this exact argument and there conclusion was that in 80% of the cases, the sliders were felt to have been a benefit in the outcome.

I'm not trying to suggest that anyone get sliders...that's an entirely personal choice.....but let others make their choice based on common sense and real world stories...and of course realizing that regardless of having sliders, you're bike can still get trashed :P

FWIW, in my one case of essentially a drop(having to stop very quickly to avoid hitting a downed rider in front of me on a cambered downhill corner) and a few other cases I know of of actual get-offs that other riders have had, the sliders in all of these particular cases did their respective jobs and definitely minimized damage.

[magellan]

Trace has been trying in vain to get Motovation's help developing a kit for the 5th gen, but they blew him off oh so harshly, so we're gonna do it on our own. We need some info, though, if one of you fairing-drilling maniacs would be willing to grab a ruler...

How long is Motovation's 6th gen slider (6" plus would be good, as with many things in life :P )? And what is the diameter of the machined insert that fits the recess in the frame?

Also, if you know anyone who has these for an RC51, it would be good to have the same info for it.

Thanks in advance!

[kaldek]

Trace has been trying in vain to get Motovation's help developing a kit for the 5th gen, but they blew him off oh so harshly, so we're gonna do it on our own. We need some info, though, if one of you fairing-drilling maniacs would be willing to grab a ruler...

How long is Motovation's 6th gen slider (6" plus would be good, as with many things in life :P )? And what is the diameter of the machined insert that fits the recess in the frame?

Also, if you know anyone who has these for an RC51, it would be good to have the same info for it.

Thanks in advance!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have a complete spare set of sliders for a 6th-gen. My bet is that they will just fit straight onto a 5th gen. I will measure them up for you, but I'd say they are at least 6", plus the smaller diameter bit that slots into the bolt recess.

Kaldek

[magellan]

I have a complete spare set of sliders for a 6th-gen.  My bet is that they will just fit straight onto a 5th gen.  I will measure them up for you, but I'd say they are at least 6", plus the smaller diameter bit that slots into the bolt recess.

Kaldek

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It'll be good to know what you find out. Oxmole came up with this...

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gallery_3392_431_70707.jpg

I'm thinking I can live with the spindle that fits into the frame recess being only 7/8" in diameter (I can shim it with a sleeve or leave as-is), but the impression I get is that 5th gen bodywork requires a longer slider, something at least 6" long (according to Trace's eyeballing of the situation). If you find that your sliders are longer than theoxmole's - but you both have the 6th gen kit - that would be odd :rolleyes: . Let us know what you find.

[Rivcyko]

And definitely forget about RTV. Warmed the bike-up, once. That was enough to make it start to lose adhesion. Re-did the coolant overflow with Shoe Goo. We'll see. It appears to be the cat's a$$. :joystick: