2001 vfr fi Cutting out

[Walker1]

I was out for a ride the other day and the engine cut out as i was coming yo a stop sign. The electrics stayed on (the clock did not reset).

I noticed the FI light was on. (Which admittedly has been flickering for the occasional rides I have had over the past couple of months.. only reminded when im out and about). Fired her up and went on about my business. As I got closer to home she started having more issues... power delivery coming and going, minor spitting from the exhaust and cutting out again and again. I was close to home but was worried about the bike cutting out when taking corners so I was careful.

She got real upset at this stage and when I was around the corner she refused to turn on. Took a few turn overs and a short break before she decided to fire up. Decided to let her roll the last 30meters because it was unsafe.

 

Something else to point out is after the first cut out I noticed she wasnt as whiny as she usually is when riding 🤷‍♂️

 

Recent work was done to the R/R, stator and electricals. 

I suspect it might have something to do with the fuel pump. I hear it when I turn the key but it's not as consistently 'energetic'.

 

What are your thoughts?

[Worfje]

Since you have been fiddling with the electronics, I would at least do a measurement of the voltage at idle and higher rpm (> 4000), also because it is very low effort.

 

The sound of the fuel pump should be consistently 'energetic', so might be a good hint.

 

You could attempt to 'readout' the FI code if it is stored, see here.

 

[vfrgiving]

I had a similar cutout with flickery Fi light a few years ago.  Main white fuse holder clipped to battery tray plastic area was burnt and crusty at wire terminal connections inside.  Fuse itself wasn't blown, just bad wiring connections below it.  I clipped out and replaced with rubber inline fuse holder from auto parts store.

 

I'm not sure what this recent stator work entailed, but if AC plug area goes nuclear it could take nearby rectifier DC plug with it.  Don't ask me how I know.🙄

 

Pull tail plastic and double check connections.   

[MBrane]

25 year old wiring that was barely adequate when new. This is exactly why I installed headlight/R/R wiring kits that come direct from the battery. Taking those high current loads off the wimpy stock harness, and needless connectors works wonders.

[JZH]

I haven't experienced these symptoms, but I seem to recall that the orange GND junction block often gets a shout out in these situations.  It's only sealed with leccy tape, so the terminals can corrode, leading to various weird symptoms.  Soldering them or wire-splicing them together and sealing in adhesive-lined heat shrink is the usual prescription.

 

 

I believe the OEM connector does not combine the solid green and the green/black wires together, so I kept them separate when I crimped them together on my blue bike.  However, I soldered them all together on my yellow bike, and it seemed to run okay!

 

 

I used brass butt splice terminals (here half-crimped) because that's what all the cool kids were doing...  (The cool kids being the racing wiring gurus.)

 

 

All spliced together and sealed up, and later covered with electrical tape.  Good preventative maintenance, even if it doesn't resolve your issue!

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

[Walker1]

(Edit) might be the problem here. 

 

On 3/25/2026 at 3:30 PM, Worfje said:

measurement of the voltage at idle and higher rpm (> 4000), also because it is very low effort.

14.2v at >4000rpm. 14.02 at idle and 11.43 when ignition off (why not)

 

On 3/25/2026 at 3:34 PM, vfrgiving said:

Main white fuse holder clipped to battery tray plastic area was burnt and crusty at wire terminal connections inside.  Fuse itself wasn't blown, just bad wiring connections

Wiring and fuse looked good when I investigated but I did notice this on one of the connectors to the R/R.. 

 

Also some additional information. I took it out for a little ride and I noticed the FI light comes on when im around 4000rpm OR I pull the front brake 🤷‍♂️

On 3/25/2026 at 3:30 PM, Worfje said:

You could attempt to 'readout' the FI code if it is stored,

also did this. No joy.. nothing stored unfortunately 

 

 

[Worfje]

For sure you need to replace the connector(s) / pins. I am not entirely sure if we/you can rule out the stator and/or RR yet. The RR gives good voltage now at higher RPM, but they also can start to fail/drop the voltage as soon as they get 'warm'.

 

Let's await the response of more knowledgeable forum members (in respect to me). 🤓

 

This thread might be nice to read.

 

When you pull the front brake (and/or press the rear brake pedal), the additional load of the brake bulbs might trigger something towards getting a too low voltage? It is far fetched maybe. Just thinking out loud.

[Burger]

so a quick flip through the service manual led me to this:

 

that sounds consistent with the fuel pump not sounding "energetic," since any one of those going bad would cause the pump to not run. would also explain it not showing a code.

 

so i would check:

 

-killswitch and wiring (make sure it's clean and making good connection, as well as the wiring; since it shares a connector with the front brake switch, and you mentioned that's also causing problems, this would be my prime suspect.)

 

-tip sensor (shuts off the bike in a drop or crash, here's the service manual procedure):

 

-engine stop relay (this is what the killswitch triggers on and off and provides power to fuel pump, injectors, and coils; the ECU monitors this relay and throws the aforementioned Code 0 if it isn't switched on. again, here's the service manual procedure):

 

as far as the light coming on above 4k, i suspect it's just this:

 

hope i helped, best of luck.

 

[Walker1]

Quick update.

 

i took out the block and crimped the wires together. Tried to solder but didnt work 🤷‍♂️

The light no longer shows up during idle, over 4000rpm OR when i pull the front brakes.

Instead it turns hard on when out on it for 3 ish minutes and then stays. If I turn the lights down it goes away. 

On 4/3/2026 at 12:58 AM, Worfje said:

When you pull the front brake (and/or press the rear brake pedal), the additional load of the brake bulbs might trigger something towards getting a too low voltage? It is far fetched maybe. Just thinking out loud.

Which makes this much less farfetched. Ill have a look at the thread you posted 📫 

On 4/3/2026 at 3:35 AM, Burger said:

killswitch and wiring (make sure it's clean and making good connection, as well as the wiring; since it shares a connector with the front brake switch, and you mentioned that's also causing problems, this would be my prime suspect.)

 

-tip sensor (shuts off the bike in a drop or crash, here's the service manual procedure):

Good shout. Im going to get around to these bits as soon as I can 🤘

[MBrane]

Those look like typical auto parts store splices. I have used much better quality, and they still failed. I finally just got a whole new harness from Eastern Beaver so it's all one piece from stator to R/R. De-soldering, and re-soldering was required at the stator itself. I also routed the harness as far from the frame/subframe, and exhaust as I could since they get quite hot.

[Walker1]

On 4/3/2026 at 3:35 AM, Burger said:

killswitch and wiring (make sure it's clean and making good connection, as well as the wiring; since it shares a connector with the front brake switch, and you mentioned that's also causing problems, this would be my prime suspect.)

 

I have to admit im completely new to most terminology. Especially when it comes to electrics. So I want to make sure i have this right.

Take apart the killswitch housing (on the right handle bar). Check and clean where the wires connect.

To check the wiring, I need to disconnect the plug somewhere else on the bike (under fairing?) and check the resistance/continuity when the killswitch is on and off?

[Worfje]

Hi, I assume that Burger is referring to this connector:

 

 

Happy hunting.

[Walker1]

Update.

 

Kill switch and tip sensor are ok.

The butt connectors i used came apart (cheap stuff) so I re did with male/female. Probably not the best but 🤷‍♂️. For now itll do.

 

Next port of call is the ground junction block. Should get in there today if the weather is good.

I found this post https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/ which seems relatable. I have one of the wires heating up. The fi light comes on with full head beams. Reduced to fog and fi light comes on when flicking indicators and also the kickstand

 

Also. How can I get in at the ground bolt from the negative wire? Its in an awkward spot to reach and suggestions say it's worth giving a clean while the bike is pulled apart.

[JZH]

Get thee some "adhesive-lined heat shrink" and seal up those three terminals.  Whatever size that just fits over the blades (it has a 3:1 shrinkage ratio) should still seal the yellow wires from the sunny Irish weather.

 

I know the ground bolt of which you speak, and you're right about it being awkward to reach.  I don't have the OEM plastic rear mudguard on my yellow bike, so I'm not sure my experience would be the same as yours, but I actually just ran my new 10mm2 GND cable to a different M6 on the outside of the frame (leaving the OEM cable in place until I de-link the brakes), rather than fight that bolt...  But if you're just trying to clean the existing GND connection, you probably don't have that option.  Removing the rear brake master cylinder heat shield is probably your best bet.  Good luck.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH