Overheating main fuse but need to move the bike 2 miles.

[GSP]

Hi folks, 

 

6th gen owner here. When I run the bike (fresh battery), the 30 amp fuse gets super hot, and there is evidence of past overheating. I need to move the bike a short distance, so what’s the easiest way to facilitate this without ending up with a dead bike at the side of the road? Do I just attach a new fuse holder and hope for the best? I really need this to be a quick-ish solution and don’t want to tow. 

[Captain 80s]

Put a bunch of main fuses in your pocket and think "cool".

[vfrcapn]

Don't forget to bring a fire extinguisher along...

 

Can you disconnect the r/r and run it off the battery to go two miles? Guessing the overheating is due to r/r - stator issues.

[Terry]

1 hour ago, vfrcapn said:

Don't forget to bring a fire extinguisher along...

 

Can you disconnect the r/r and run it off the battery to go two miles? Guessing the overheating is due to r/r - stator issues.

That sounds like a smart suggestion. If the battery is charged, I know from personal experience a FSC600 Silverwing scooter can run for 30-45 minutes with no input from a stator or RR.

[Captain 80s]

You could also unplug the headlight(s) for some wiggle room (pull fuse?).  I know, technically illegal in the US, but very low risk on a 2 mile, daylight trip.

[Burger]

On 9/30/2025 at 12:04 PM, GSP said:

Hi folks, 

 

6th gen owner here. When I run the bike (fresh battery), the 30 amp fuse gets super hot, and there is evidence of past overheating. I need to move the bike a short distance, so what’s the easiest way to facilitate this without ending up with a dead bike at the side of the road? Do I just attach a new fuse holder and hope for the best? I really need this to be a quick-ish solution and don’t want to tow. 

the "proper" method would be:

 

-remove main fuse, bridge with ammeter to measure current draw

-start bike, then pull fuses or unplug stuff until current draw drops to normal level

 

that'll tell you exactly what's causing the fault and will let you be 100% sure the bike isn't going to burn to the ground when you go to move it. like capn suggested, i'd start by unplugging the stator.

[Terry]

Great advice, I'll try to file that one away.

[GSP]

On 9/30/2025 at 10:12 AM, Captain 80s said:

Put a bunch of main fuses in your pocket and think "cool".

 

Interestingly enough, I did follow this advice. I swapped out the fuse for a brand new one before I left, checked it part way, and kept going. It didn’t get hot. 

 

I’ll still do all the electrical checks and replace the scorched fuse holder regardless. 

[Terry]

And why was the original fuse hot? My only experience in this area is the alternator wires and their connector, and I know they got hot when the connector got wet, started to corrode and that caused high restance. High resistance causes heating. So maybe your issue was as simple as a dirty fuse connection, and the action of switching that out has cleaned the contacts enough for the problem to go away?

[airwalk]

I’ve had similar overheating with a few bayonet style fuse holders, some to the melting stage which is too close a call(fire!)for me. My current solution is to use bolt on types which is working well, pia to change but way less likely to develop the resistive “hot” pocket(s) occasionally found in conventional holders..