Member Contributer slowbird Posted September 9, 2025 Member Contributer Posted September 9, 2025 I've been chasing this issue for years. Pressing the turn signal switch to activate the signals and there will be a delay before the actual light starts flashing. Just like all of the many many other posts about it, the right side is more effected than the left side, and it seems to be temperature related as it doesn't happen on warm days. It also goes away with regular use. (So if you ride everyday you may not have this problem) Has anyone found an actual solution to this besides opening the switch and cleaning the connections? Because I have done it like 4 times already and it only helps for like a day before they start acting up again. Link to the last thread about it: Quote
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 9, 2025 Member Contributer Posted September 9, 2025 From an electrical perspective, power flows from the battery to fuse and then through the flasher relay to the switch, and then separates to the left or right sides. I think the only thing that can cause a delay is the switch, and the likeliest cause is old, stiff grease holding the contact points apart. That is also why regular use and cold weather have an impact on the delay you are seeing. The grey wire is power in, orange or light blue is L and R out. You may also have running lights which should have constant power (not through the flasher relay) on the Brown/Blue wire, and out on the Light Blue/White and Orange/White wires. When you use the turn signal, the side lights get cut out. When you cleaned the contacts did you use a contact cleaner or a spray like Deoxit (my fave)? Quote
Member Contributer slowbird Posted September 9, 2025 Author Member Contributer Posted September 9, 2025 The 4 times I have cleaned it I've probably used 4 different bottles of cleaner. Mostly whatever Electrical Contact cleaner spray the local Auto parts store has. I get in there with a tight, pointy cotton swab (the kind that doesn't fray easily) and get in all the little spots. The last time I even got a tiny metal pick and ensured the 3 circular contacts were clear of any residue. Every post I have read about it always talks about opening up the switch and cleaning it, which granted is sound advice, but it doesn't solve the problem. There must be something else going on. Especially since on all of these situations, the Right Signal is worse than the Left. Yes on my bike I do have running lights. When you select the signal the corresponding light goes out, and stays out until the signal begins to flash. Quote
Gaz66 Posted September 9, 2025 Posted September 9, 2025 9 hours ago, slowbird said: I've been chasing this issue for years. Pressing the turn signal switch to activate the signals and there will be a delay before the actual light starts flashing. Just like all of the many many other posts about it, the right side is more effected than the left side, and it seems to be temperature related as it doesn't happen on warm days. It also goes away with regular use. (So if you ride everyday you may not have this problem) Has anyone found an actual solution to this besides opening the switch and cleaning the connections? Because I have done it like 4 times already and it only helps for like a day before they start acting up again. Link to the last thread about it: My money's on a gummed up bar switch. Factory grease & 20 + yrs of use = gummed up switch gear. Had a similar issue on my 99, sticky/sluggish flasher switch, pulled it apart, full of sticky crap, deep clean/polished all contacts, light smear of silicone gun grease, like brand new, still working mint for last 5yrs. Went back in during winter lay up, gutted rest of switch gear, deep clean/lube, all working as new. Personally I don't rate contact cleaner as anything special, it's only a glorified over priced mild de-greaser, but it's kinder to plastics than brake cleaner, so useful to wash plastic parts when cleaned, it'll do little to nothing just spraying it into a switch. Switches need servicing at some point. I use scotchbrite pads on electrical contacts, switches like horn & starter draw a lot of current & use a heavier set of contact points, these need filing to clean em, I have a set of super fine diamond files for this job, but a fine needle file or some emery cloth wrapped around a lolly sticky. It can be a fiddly & time consuming process, but worth the effort. Horn switch is a real biatch to remove & install from the main switch housing, clean in situ is my advice. Harness to chassis grounds are a weak point too, well worth cleaning em all up with some emery cloth & treat em to some kind of anti-oxidant solution. 👍 1 1 Quote
phoenixfire Posted September 9, 2025 Posted September 9, 2025 I have the same issue. Did you try the above? Did it resolve the issue? Quote
Member Contributer slowbird Posted September 10, 2025 Author Member Contributer Posted September 10, 2025 It's funny because no matter how many times someones says: "I have already cleaned the switch contacts" someone always comes in with the reply "Try cleaning the switch contacts." Yeah I've had the switch open many times, It is very clean in there. I have done more than just "spraying it into the switch". I've gone in there and cleaned and wiped it methodically and even used a small pick to ensure the electral contacts were free of any debris. When you button it back up it works and feels great, but usually within a day or two you're right back to square one. Not just me, many many others reporting the same. It's not just a gummed up switch problem. Yes cleaning helps, but it's a bandaid solution at most. There has to be another reason why the signals act like this, and are effect by trmperature. 10 hours ago, phoenixfire said: I have the same issue. Did you try the above? Did it resolve the issue? You're in Toronto so you're experiencing the same temps as me. Are yours affected by the cold and the right signal is worse than the left? Quote
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 10, 2025 Member Contributer Posted September 10, 2025 Sorry Slowbird; the reason I led off with a comment about the electrical circuit is that there is nothing unique about the left and right sides; they only split at the switch, they share the same flasher unit, they end up at the same common earth. You could try replacing bulbs and/or cleaning the sockets, but I don't think that will help. 1 Quote
Member Contributer slowbird Posted September 10, 2025 Author Member Contributer Posted September 10, 2025 No need to apologize Terry. I did find you comment regarding the Electrical Circuit helpful. Also I did look up Deoxit but it's not common or cheap around my neck of the woods. The other threads about this problem confirm what you have said, The common point is the switch, and the flasher unit/relay is the same both both signals. But still....odd that every problem mentioned, from VFR's around the world with this issue, it's always the Right Side that's worse than the left. There must be something going on. 🤔 Quote
methman Posted September 10, 2025 Posted September 10, 2025 I am no expert. But it is a kind of similar problem I have ( ... in other thread). Right side headlight and turn signal are not functioning well. I traced it to the grounding. You can try to measure resistances of grounding on L / R side. The headlight sockets against frame starground seems to be the easiest points. May be, you will find the bug. It is a plausible explanation in my eyes, because the cycling frequency of the flasher relay depends on resistances in circuit. Quote
Member Contributer slowbird Posted September 10, 2025 Author Member Contributer Posted September 10, 2025 The problem I'm referring to, and the similar threads, don't have anything to do with the headlights. Just the signals. If you are having issues with your headlights thats a separate issue. Quote
Gaz66 Posted September 10, 2025 Posted September 10, 2025 17 hours ago, slowbird said: It's funny because no matter how many times someones says: "I have already cleaned the switch contacts" someone always comes in with the reply "Try cleaning the switch contacts." Yeah I've had the switch open many times, It is very clean in there. I have done more than just "spraying it into the switch". I've gone in there and cleaned and wiped it methodically and even used a small pick to ensure the electral contacts were free of any debris. When you button it back up it works and feels great, but usually within a day or two you're right back to square one. Not just me, many many others reporting the same. It's not just a gummed up switch problem. Yes cleaning helps, but it's a bandaid solution at most. There has to be another reason why the signals act like this, and are effect by trmperature. You're in Toronto so you're experiencing the same temps as me. Are yours affected by the cold and the right signal is worse than the left? Gummed up is a general term, you may well have freed switch off with a few squirts of snake oil, doesn't mean it's electrically clean enough to conduct enough current from switch contacts to loom contacts, hence I also advised to clean all loom grounds as well fully stripping switch for a proper deep clean, since you consider poking around with a pick n contact cleaner is adequate to deduce there's no issue within the switch, well more fool you. 1 Quote
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 10, 2025 Member Contributer Posted September 10, 2025 13 hours ago, slowbird said: No need to apologize Terry. I did find you comment regarding the Electrical Circuit helpful. Also I did look up Deoxit but it's not common or cheap around my neck of the woods. The other threads about this problem confirm what you have said, The common point is the switch, and the flasher unit/relay is the same both both signals. But still....odd that every problem mentioned, from VFR's around the world with this issue, it's always the Right Side that's worse than the left. There must be something going on. 🤔 The right side of the turn signal will be the left side in the switch, which is the lower side due to the angle of the bars and sidestand use. Maybe they're more prone to trapping water in that area? Quote
Member Contributer slowbird Posted September 11, 2025 Author Member Contributer Posted September 11, 2025 8 hours ago, Gaz66 said: you may well have freed switch off with a few squirts of snake oil, 🙄 Buddy....read what I wrote. I said twice that I have meticulously cleaned the switch...I have had it apart more than once. Where you getting "a few squirts of snake oil from" 🤦♂️ 8 hours ago, Gaz66 said: Gummed up is a general term, you may well have freed switch off with a few squirts of snake oil, doesn't mean it's electrically clean enough to conduct enough current from switch contacts to loom contacts, If it isn't "electrically clean enough to conduct current from the switch contacts to the loom contacts" then why does cleaning the switch immediately cause the problem to go away for a day or two before the problem returns? The point is that cleaning the switch isn't the solutuion because the switch being "gummed up" or dirty isn't the problem. 8 hours ago, Gaz66 said: Gummed up is a general term On 9/9/2025 at 7:47 AM, Gaz66 said: My money's on a gummed up bar switch. Factory grease & 20 + yrs of use = gummed up switch gear. Gummed up could be a general term but you actually specified "Factory Grease = gummed up." But there ain't no factory grease in there. Hasn't been in probably the 10 years + I have owned the bike. So I wouldn't be "putting your money on a gummed up bar switch" Quote
Member Contributer slowbird Posted September 11, 2025 Author Member Contributer Posted September 11, 2025 5 hours ago, Terry said: The right side of the turn signal will be the left side in the switch, which is the lower side due to the angle of the bars and sidestand use. Maybe they're more prone to trapping water in that area? Yeah that could be it. I think I read in one of the many thread about this problem that it could be a bad solder. Some have mentioned things like signal bulbs, signal contacts, and the signal relay but all were ruled out as the problem. Quote
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