1987 Honda VFR700F

[Manofsteeeeel]

I'm new to the fourm and new to VFR's. I bought a 1987 VFR700F Interceptor off a guy in Chicago for $300 and I've been trying to get the bike running. Im assuming the bike has sat for some years. I bought a new battery for it and was able to key it on and get the lights and dash lights on but when I pressed the start button the lights just dimmed down and kind of fluttered. So I figured the Ignition solenoid probably needed to be replaced so I ordered one and put it on but now when I key the bike on I get absolutely nothing. Battery voltage reads 12.65 at the terminals and at the Ignition solenoid. All the fuses are good and I dont see any messed up wiring anywhere. I need some help in the direction I should go if anybody out there knows common issues these bikes have. I appreciate any knowledge I can get thank you

[Captain 80s]

Couple things:

 

"All fuses are good"  

 

Does that include the Main Fuse that is under a cover on the solenoid holder?  I have to ask.

 

Also, solenoids come in two styles and they are mirror images of each other. There is usually a "B" (Battery) and an "M" (Motor) molded into the plastic near the cable posts.  If you got an opposite (and your original unit was really bad), you will need to re-pin the wires on the plug in the mirror image too.  Also closely inspect the wires going into that plug.  It is VERY common for those to be melted and burnt and can cause what you describe.  Sometimes you don;t realize how bad it is until you really look close. 

 

Also, you can plug in your original solenoid just to see if you get any power again.

 

Great choice in a VFR model and good luck.

[Manofsteeeeel]

You were absolutely right about both of those things. Thank you so much

[Manofsteeeeel]

@Captain 80s I got that issue fixed now the only thing that I can't seem to figure out is why the fuel pump isn't pumping when trying to start the bike. Battery is brand new and has a 13.6 voltage until i hook it up to the bike then it continues to drop stopping around 10.3, starter relay is brand new, fuel cut relay is new, bench tested the fuel pump and it works as well but im not getting 12 volts to the fuel pump itself. Is there a hidden fuse somewhere or possibly a ground that needs checked? 

[Captain 80s]

Unplug the relay and jump the black and black/blue wires with a wire at the female connector.  With the key on, and the relay bypassed, the pump should operate.

 

The colors of the three wires change some across the models, but I should be close.  You can hurt anything trying different combos.  If there is a yellow/red wire present, it should be the other two.

 

Basically, when the yellow/red wire (or whatever it is on yours) is getting a signal from the ignition, it energizes the relay to allow 12v to the pump by "connecting" the other 2.  Those are the two wires you are trying to jump.  

 

Report back.

[Captain 80s]

Also realize that with the relay in place, the only time the pump will operate is when it is being cranked or running (That ignition signal we talked about earlier).

 

If the carbs are empty or need some filling, it will take a bit of cranking to get enough fuel in the carbs to start.

 

Also I have found that if you are trying to prime a dry system (lines and pump) sometimes that fuel tank and petcock just won't "start" flowing even tho the pump is trying to pull some fuel.  I sometimes have to put a rag around my air nozzle in the fuel filler opening and "pressurize" it just a little and then the fuel start flowing no problem. 

 

Good luck!

[Manofsteeeeel]

Ok jumping wires now. I had to edit that post that you just responded to. Im tinkering with it now. I didn't realize the battery voltage was dropping so much

[Manofsteeeeel]

So jumping the black/blue + black wire worked, im currently trying to start it now

[Manofsteeeeel]

Holy crap it started thank you so much. Does that mean I have a bad wire running to that relay? Like I said the relay is new and I traced the black and blue wire then tested for resistance and it was like .2. So thatd mean the black wire has a bad spot somewhere correct?

[Manofsteeeeel]

[Captain 80s]

Ok.  Very cool!!!

 

Possibly.  You can run the bike no problem with the relay bypassed.  When the pump reaches a pressure it will stop and then pump when it senses it needs to when the line pressure drops.   The relay is a 'safety feature" to keep the pump from running in the event of an accident where the key is on and the pump could continue to pump fuel into a bad situation. 

 

The Hawk GT I'm riding today just has a toggle in place of a relay in case I'm working on the fuel system with the key on.

 

 

 

[Captain 80s]

Most of my bikes have a toggle wired in parallel so I can prime the fuel system after winter storage AND get home when the Fuel Cut Relay fails in the middle of nowhere or a floating bridge.   Both scenarios are true.

[Captain 80s]

Now that it has ran you can plug the relay back in and feel if the pump clicks every now and then while it runs and starts to empty the bowls.

[Captain 80s]

Hey....   Jumping on said RC31.  I'll check in later.   

 

But awesome progress!!

[Manofsteeeeel]

That's a really good idea I may do that same thing and it'd also be a great way to keep people from stealing it as well especially if I hide it where the relay goes. Ill keep you posted I got it half way torn apart because im currently vinyl wrapping the ferrings and gas tank. Who knows when this bike last ran, all the fluids were nasty and the guy I got it from in Chicago said it was his dad's but his dad got dementia and he had to sell it before he left for the army.