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Front brake problems


Howesnet

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Hi all,

 

I am having an issue with my front brakes on my 2010. The only way i can describe it is it feels like the ABS is engaging at slow speeds when braking i.e. grab release grab release etc. causing the whole bike to lurch when stopping, but, only at low speed. If you can imagine having a sticky residue on the disc that is getting caught by the pad as it spins.

 

I had the same problem with my original OEM discs so i replaced them with a set of EBC's. Seemed to fix it for a while then the problem returned. I bought a set of OEM's and replaced them again. Problem went away for a while and has now come back again.

 

I have eliminated a warped disc, i have checked for free movement in the bobbins, i have loosened and reset the front forks, i have stripped and cleaned the callipers and put in brand new pads, i have thoroughly cleaned the discs and i have removed and cleaned the ABS sensors.

My mechanic has had a poke around and eliminated the wheel & head bearings.

 

I am at the point where, if she cant be fixed, she'll have to go. Somebody please help.

 

TIA

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I checked with EBC UK (years ago), they donot recommend/support this procudue.

YMMV

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Hi Dutchy, thanks for your reply. I already know about the EBC disc bobbins. They cant be turned because, although the outer ring is round, the inner ring has straight edges thanks to their "revolutionary square drive button" system.

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Have you had any discussions with a reputable Honda Motorcycle Dealership or service agent?

 

Sounds like the ABS system needs to be isolated and the braking re tested, to confirm or deny it to be an ABS issue.

For safety reasons I'm not going to make any suggestions on how to temporarily disable the ABS.

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I have a similar issue currently.

I'm investigaing the head bearings.  I think that's the root cause.  Everything else has been ticked off the list.  Perhaps, this bike just allows that shuddering to start a bit earlier in the failure process?

Will be doing that in the next few weeks.

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These videos really helped me solve front-end shake issue that was bugging me for months! I had already replaced every single part in front-end except for forks & wheel. Every single wear item. Was getting ready to park track-bike in storage and find another bike.

 

 

 

 

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I've heard all of this countless times over the years. I do not understand how it can be wrong unless defective parts are involved. Maybe someone can clarify? 

 

Tighten and torque axle, then pinch bolts/calipers. How can a caliper be crooked? How can an axle be tight to spec...and be crooked?

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We had huge thread just little while ago about how tightening axle out-of-sequence caused issues. Someone was confused about uneven gap between sides? Optical illusion?

 

Apparently there's enough play between each of those parts that accumulated tolerances from beginning to end can thrown system out of whack. Each part's +/- variations can add up in wrong direction with final part being out. I heard one guy finally solving his issue, which was glob of paint under fork-tip axle-clamp that caused enough mis-alignment to result in shaking while braking.

 

In my case, I still have no idea what it was. I just followed Dave's video step-by-step and it worked!!  🙂

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Great video's, explaining the importance of the "captive" side fork leg versus the "free" side fork leg.

 

Although in the first video, he had the caliper bolts finger tight, then backed them off 1/4 turn. He tightened them AFTER setting the "free" fork leg, while holding the brake lever.

 

In the second video, which might be older, he had the caliper bolts finger tight, and tightened the calipers first, then set the "free" fork leg. Seems like this could cause a bit of brake drag...

 

The first video seems better to guarantee alignment of everything. The long travel Tenere 700 seems to always have issues when re-setting the front wheel. I will try this method, as it seems to be the way to go.

 

Thanks Danno!

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Sounds to me like the pads are getting glazed. This judder from around 15mph to stop is a symptom of either pad glazing or warped discs. Try dressing the pads down on 200 grit wet and dry on a flat surface unti they look matt again. Also clean the discs with scotchbrite (nylon pad) to remove any pad transfer. If this cures it for a while, you need to find out why the pads are glazing up. Could possibly be sticking pistons or just the fact you like heavy braking ?

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