Preparing for a longer trip - the regulator: what was up with it again?

[ElPolloDiablo]

Good afternoon on this Easter Sunday. A beautiful day to check the VFR before I take it out next month in the Balkans and a piece of Greece.

 

Let me first come to the subject of electronics. The regulator appears to be the only weak point, if I read here and there. People replace cabling and the voltage regulator for a better variant, it seems. The first tip I got is to take a look at the yellow connector behind the rear left fairing. So I just did. But something tells me the previous owner has already done something. The voltage regulator is of type SH603-12. See photos below.

 

Has this been solved fine so well or do I need to do something to make it completely "bullet-proof"?

 

Many thanks guys.

 

 

[interceptor69]

I know the common one recommended here does not bolt on like the stock one and that one is like mine-held on w/ only one bolt so that looks to be the replacement.  The serial # also looks familiar.  There are far more knowledgeable folks on here who will chime in and confirm.

[Captain 80s]

I would 100% find out what is happening underneath all that yellow tape before I left on a trip.  If there is a connector in there (and it looks like there is), I would eliminate it and solder the three yellow wires.  The connector is often melted and black.

[Fritzer]

Capt 80 is right on about opening up the tape wrapped charging circuit to see what is going on in there.  The charging circuit is not protected very well from dirty road wash being introduced into the charging circuit connectors eventually causing a bad connections.  Bad connections cause stator burnout and melted connector blocks.  I had this same issue 4 years ago and decided to make solid connections to battery and ground.  After competing the following alterations, I have not had any problems since.  Maybe this will work for you.

 

 

[Bren]

Or delphi pack connectors

 

 

[mello dude]

^^^^^Metripack 630s

[Bren]

10 hours ago, mello dude said:

^^^^^Metripack 630s

Aaaah thanks Mello, forgot the correct name in my Easter Sunday wine buzz 😀 

[gropula]

Replacing the stock R/R with series type like SH847 and running the charging wires directly to the battery with a 30A fuse should do the job. Soldering and/or crimping the stator connector removes one common failure point, but the likelihood of failure is lower with series R/R. Clean all the ground connections and check the connectors of big power consumers like headlights for corosion and/or heat damage. My '02 VTEC had some issues but I did everything that I listed here and it's reliable now.

[ElPolloDiablo]

Thanks guys. Discussed it with my mechanic friend and he's going to replace the R/R with a MOSFET version, check all the cables and connectors, clean them and maybe replace them. We will also check the condition of the stator.

 

After this I should be good to go right?

[JZH]

IIRC, a Shindengen part number beginning with SH is not a MOSFET type, so what is there is likely an aftermarket replacement (it is not OEM).  If it's working (i.e., ~14v at 5,000rpm), then bring it with you as a spare!

 

 

The yellow electrical tape job doesn't bode well for what's underneath, so check for corrosion and consider splicing the three yellow wires together without the connector.  I would have said to solder and seal them with adhesive-lined heatshrink, but my recent "race-spec wiring harness" experience suggests that it would be more reliable to crimp them instead and seal them with adhesive-lined heatshrink.

 

Also, it would be worth your while to unwrap the rectangular joiner (above the yellow taped wires in your pic) and check that GND block for corrosion as well.  Some people ditch the connector block altogether and solder all the GND wires together (that would include me...), but I am now compelled to mention that an extra-large, kick-arse crimp would probably be better!

 

Ciao,

 

JZH