fabio222 Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 Hey folks, Do you tend to use threadlock on your sprocket bolts? I was installing new front and rear sprockets last night (have yet to fit the new chain) and noticed that the manual didn't specify threadlock to be used. Truth be told, I was a little surprised, again, at the size of the front sprocket bolt....it's not terribly large! Anyway, as a matter of habit I applied a little moly-grease to the output splines (it's habit because I have to do that on my shaft-drive NT700). Then I thought "oh wait, I can't use threadlock now". And then I thought "I'll go ask the wise heads on VFRD". So....what do you good folks do? Just tighten to the correct torque and leave it at that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bren Posted March 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2023 I've never used any there, for the 5th Gen it's not in the service manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR78 Posted March 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2023 I don’t for the countershaft sprocket, but do for the driven sprocket simply because I use titanium nuts. The torque setting for the titanium is marginally less and spalling might be an issue. I vaguely remember the original rear sprocket nuts were lock nuts. I have a G8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR78 Posted March 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2023 Plus, the counter shaft spins anti clockwise, so the rotation should not loosen the bolt. Keep in mind that I am not a mechanical engineer and don’t know s$&t from clay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted March 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2023 Make note...don't buy pottery from VFR78. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted March 27, 2023 Author Share Posted March 27, 2023 Sounds like I just need to tighten to the right torque spec so (think it's about 51 NM on the front sprocket, 33 NM each for the rear - don't quote me on it though, I need to double check). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR78 Posted March 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2023 On the G8, countershaft is 51NM and driven sprocket is 64NM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR78 Posted March 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2023 6 hours ago, bmart said: Make note...don't buy pottery from VFR78. 🙂 Anyone for tea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted March 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted March 30, 2023 Author Share Posted March 30, 2023 On 3/27/2023 at 10:43 PM, bmart said: I wish..... Not quite there yet. I repainted the clutch cover and need to scrape off the old gasket and refit. Then install the new chain and sprockets, a full service (excluding the valves, they're fine) and THEN we're back on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted March 30, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2023 On 3/27/2023 at 4:24 AM, fabio222 said: So....what do you good folks do? Just tighten to the correct torque and leave it at that? Yes, on everything. A good torque wrench and an occassional look gets the job(s) done. I never use threadlock on anything. It seems to be the best way to booger heads of bolts trying to get them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bren Posted March 30, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2023 3 hours ago, bmart said: Yes, on everything. A good torque wrench and an occassional look gets the job(s) done. I never use threadlock on anything. It seems to be the best way to booger heads of bolts trying to get them out. I am tending to agree with this. Why? Because I've removed my brake calipers so often now and instead of just cutting the old threadlock out with a knife I started using a dye which removed metal from the bolt. I now have to order new caliper bolts for my own piece of mind. In future I'll go back to the knife or a thread file or leave the threadlock altogether. Depends on where it is though I should add! Some bolts should have it applied, check your manual 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Wald Posted March 31, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31, 2023 Just FYI, threadlock is not always just the same threadlock. There are many different ones. I only use it on caliper mounting hardware ,rotor bolts and only when required. I typically use the removable one which looks more like paste. The proper torque still needs to be applied. Many moons ago I used the non removeable one and had to chisel it out later. My dad who was a tool maker told me then to use the right tool for the right job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR750F3 Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 The stock rears nuts have a locking mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted April 1, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 1, 2023 On 3/31/2023 at 1:30 AM, Wald said: Just FYI, threadlock is not always just the same threadlock. There are many different ones. I only use it on caliper mounting hardware ,rotor bolts and only when required. I typically use the removable one which looks more like paste. The proper torque still needs to be applied. Many moons ago I used the non removeable one and had to chisel it out later. My dad who was a tool maker told me then to use the right tool for the right job! And because it acts like a thread lubricant, the "proper torque" depends on whether you're using (or supposed to be using) threadlock (or anti-seize)... Just bear in mind that the torque readings given in the repair manual will be for "lightly oiled" threads, unless the manual specifies that the fastener is to be installed with anti-seize or threadlock. Thread lubricant can decrease the required torque reading by something like 25% (possibly more). [Re OEM rear sprocket nuts, yes they have a metal locking tab of some sort. I think they're called "Fuji" locking nuts.] Ciao, JZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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