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Pump forks to remove any air after changing fluid?


wawasonqo

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Hi Folks,

 

Put in new fluid last night.

 

Internals were not removed.

 

The forks were inverted for a couple of days and I did some pumping as best as possible before and after to allow to drain as best as possible before cleaning and reinstalling forks.

 

Should I leave the bike on the centre stand with the Fork Caps fully unscrewed to allow any air to escape?

 

Should I secure the caps and pump the fork and then unscrew the caps again and let it rest?

 

Thanks!!

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How did you determine the fork oil quantity?  Ideally, it should be a oil height measurement in completely compressed forks without springs, AND cycled a few times to ensure the damping circuits are filled.  If you are just filling to the listed "capacity", put your caps on and button her up.  But again, not the ideal way.

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1 minute ago, Captain 80s said:

How did you determine the fork oil quantity?  Ideally, it should be a oil height measurement in completely compressed forks without springs, AND cycled a few times to ensure the damping circuits are filled.  If you are just filling to the listed "capacity", put your caps on and button her up.  But again, not the ideal way.

I put in the amount (458 ml) as specified in the Service Manual.

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Just now, wawasonqo said:

I put in the amount (458 ml) as specified in the Service Manual.

 

Install your caps and finish assembly then.  No need to let air "escape", cuz it's not a thing.  Get out and enjoy.  But a little more time spent on set up can reap rewards.

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I'll add this...

 

If you are doing fork fluid, you are likely doing your own oil changes.  Do you just add what manual says is the capacity and not check your dipstick to verify oil "height" to ensure it is in the ideal range? 

 

I'm being a little dramatic, but the oil height (which also means remaining air volume) affects how the forks feel and act quite a bit.  You can really dial in the front end for your weight and riding style with just a few millimeters less or more of oil.   Right now you can't know how much oil you actually got out and where your oil height is.  Sometimes manuals even list "after disassembly" and "after draining" amounts to get you in the ballpark.

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ride around for bit to let bubbles work their way out. Note how fork feels compared to before. Then take caps off and measure oil height. Adjust if necessary.

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

How did you determine the fork oil quantity?  Ideally, it should be a oil height measurement in completely compressed forks without springs, AND cycled a few times to ensure the damping circuits are filled.  If you are just filling to the listed "capacity", put your caps on and button her up.  But again, not the ideal way.

^This.  Part of the process is cycling the forks up and down.  Once the air bubble squish noises are gone, the circuits are full and the air is at the top.

 

Can't just go by the volume you put in, either.  Have to check oil height below the top cap one way or another.  MotionPro makes a spiffy tool just for this purpose:

 

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0742

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59 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

I'll add this...

 

If you are doing fork fluid, you are likely doing your own oil changes.  Do you just add what manual says is the capacity and not check your dipstick to verify oil "height" to ensure it is in the ideal range? 

 

I'm being a little dramatic, but the oil height (which also means remaining air volume) affects how the forks feel and act quite a bit.  You can really dial in the front end for your weight and riding style with just a few millimeters less or more of oil.   Right now you can't know how much oil you actually got out and where your oil height is.  Sometimes manuals even list "after disassembly" and "after draining" amounts to get you in the ballpark.

I comprehend what you're saying.

 

Don't have the time nor resources to be able to do a full disassembly as I once did in the past with my 4th gen.

 

Quick question.

 

Why don't they have external drain holes at the bottom of the forks anymore?

 

Is it do with using Cartridge internals?

 

Thanks!

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Do not intended  to hijack the thread but since we are on the fork subject, what fork oil viscosity do you guys use on a 4th gen OEM fork? (I believe it is stock, got the lovely bike 2 years ago)

The manual says SS7=5W. I never used 5W viscosity on a motorcycle fork, always 10W or higher. I rode 6k miles since I bought the bike, so it is time. So far the fork setup is pretty good for a 26 years old bike.

Thanks in advance!

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2 hours ago, wawasonqo said:

Hi Folks,

 

Put in new fluid last night.

 

Internals were not removed.

 

The forks were inverted for a couple of days and I did some pumping as best as possible before and after to allow to drain as best as possible before cleaning and reinstalling forks.

 

Should I leave the bike on the centre stand with the Fork Caps fully unscrewed to allow any air to escape?

 

Should I secure the caps and pump the fork and then unscrew the caps again and let it rest?

 

Thanks!!

 

You didn't need to do full disassembly to set the fork oil height, just the springs need to be removed.  And you had the forks off!  It was the perfect time and can be done with something as simple as a chop stick, ruler and a sharpie.

 

Re:  Drain holes...   cost.

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6 minutes ago, Wald said:

Do not intended  to hijack the thread but since we are on the fork subject, what fork oil viscosity do you guys use on a 4th gen OEM fork? (I believe it is stock, got the lovely bike 2 years ago)

The manual says SS7=5W. I never used 5W viscosity on a motorcycle fork, always 10W or higher. I rode 6k miles since I bought the bike, so it is time. So far the fork setup is pretty good for a 26 years old bike.

Thanks in advance!

 

I put 5W in my 4th Gen when I replaced the springs and set my fork oil height recently.

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

I put 5W in my 4th Gen when I replaced the springs and set my fork oil height recently.

Thanks Captain 80s, 5W it is.

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