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VFR 800 VTEC 05 low charging voltage


Dev1

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Hello there,

 

Im having trouble with my just new to me VFR .

 

So I used it for a week, went to show it to my mechanic, he tried starting it and nothing, no dash no nothing. And it was working a minute ago!

 

He bump starts it  says its the rectifier and I should get a new one.

 

I follow his advice and up getting a Mosfet one from Carmo electronics since its just plug and play.

 

My charging voltage is around 12V on idle and around 12.5V at 5000RPM

 

I ended up checking the battery voltage after getting it on a charger for a day was around 12.5V.

 

Did a stator test and it was fine. Tried unplugging it and checking all three wires and I got around 14-15V at idle and 40-ish at around 5000rpm.

 

I read a bit over here and also checked the solenoid plug (red one with the fuse) and it was a bit melted, the solenoid contacts were fine, and it doesnt seem to get hot either.

Where can I get a replacement in europe ?

 

What else am I missing ?

 

Thank you all in advance for your help

Dev

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again

 

I tried it with a new battery and I still get the same problem.

About to pull my hair.

 

AS far as the plug goes would an aliexpress one be ok ? the shipping from the uk is more than the plug itself!!

 

Cheers

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On 3/22/2023 at 5:42 PM, Dev1 said:

Hello there,

 

 

 

My charging voltage is around 12V on idle and around 12.5V at 5000RPM  

 

I ended up checking the battery voltage after getting it on a charger for a day was around 12.5V.

 

Did a stator test and it was fine. Tried unplugging it and checking all three wires and I got around 14-15V at idle and 40-ish at around 5000rpm.

 

I read a bit over here and also checked the solenoid plug (red one with the fuse) and it was a bit melted, the solenoid contacts were fine, and it doesnt seem to get hot either.

Where can I get a replacement in europe ?

 

What else am I missing ?

 

Thank you all in advance for your help

Dev

 

 

 

a CARMO MOSFET RR is never a bad thing,

but unless your mechanic is not a trained mechanic but a clairvoyant :laugh:, he is cutting corners IMHO

 

On the 4th Gen(I  reckon the 6th gen is the same, but hey, i'm not a trained mechanic, nor clairvoyant :goofy:)

at 5,0000RPM you want to see a good 14V Direct Current at the battery terminals

 

The stator puts out Alternating Current and at 5000RPM you want to see 70+ not 40.

 

Do a resistance (Ohm) test over the 3 yellow wire combinations.

 

And do these test when the engine is hot. Cold, the stator could read ok'ish

 

 

 

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I'm not sure what a Camo mofset is, but I'd recommend a genuine Shindengen.  You never know how long Chinese knock-offs last, and you're likely to repeat the experience.  Also wire it direct to the battery with a 30 amp fuse, thus bypassing any multiple path the bike wiring takes.  Solder your connections to the stator and ditch those OEM connectors......

 

If you want a used Shindengen, the FJR's were very reliable, get an FH020AA from about 2008 onwards.  Or if you want a series Shindengen, get one from a Kawi Versys 1000 from 2015 onwards.  Of course you'll either have to build your own harness with the correct connectors or buy one from RoadsterCycle.

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15 hours ago, Dev1 said:

Hello again

 

I tried it with a new battery and I still get the same problem.

About to pull my hair.

 

AS far as the plug goes would an aliexpress one be ok ? the shipping from the uk is more than the plug itself!!

 

Cheers

Starter-solenoid plug? Any new one will be better than fried one on your bike. Make sure terminals are zinc or tin-coated so they don't corrode and burn over time like factory bare-brass unit. If you skimp based upon cost, you will pay at least twice for same job because it will need to be done again in future! Do it best as you can 1st time around!

 

uc?export=download&id=106bsc0DSJ0Y-il-KP

 

And make sure connector between stator & RR isn't fried as well.
uc?export=download&id=1UVtIxtxoY5yHMNZjT

Only way to ensure high-current flow without resistance is to tie, solder and heatshrink-wrap wiring between stator & RR. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability.

uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_z

 

Learn to use meter and troubleshoot yourself, or find better mechanic.
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all

 

 

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Yeah, if stator-output is insufficient, new RR won't help any.

Just ignore diode tests, those don't work on modern RRs.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again,

 

Thank you again for trying to help me sort this out .

 

I tried testing the ac voltage again at the stator plug while the bike was warm,

 

Still get around the same voltage, around 14-16v at idle and 40v at 5000 rpm.

 

Can I get away with opening the stator cover without changing the gasket? Just wanna do a visual check on the stator

 

Oil change will get done after this is sorted, ill change the gasket then.

 

As far as Ohm reading go they are all 0.5-0.6 ohms, continuity between the 3 lines, 

Theres a slight short to ground when its working, but when its turned off theres no continuity to ground.

 

Sounds like stator issues 😞

 

Im not riding this beast until im sure im not getting stranded anywhere.

 

I'll put some pics down today , I cant resize them on my phone

Thanks once again.

Dev

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Hello

As promised here are some pictures I snapped

 

It seems somedy tried to bypassed the big white plug and grounded it ... the grey one was full of some kind of oil ? I guess some time in its life it was dielectric grease, should I give it a good clean with contact cleaner ?

 

The rest seems pretty self explanatory.

 

Ill order the gasket then, I need to order the diaphragms for the brake / clutch reservoir since  they are ocmopletely out of shape ?

 

Is bike-parts-honda.com or cmsnl the place to go in europe ?  Shipping is absurd.

 

 

Thanks again.

 

 

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6 hours ago, raYzerman said:

Likely the old gasket won't survive, so have a new one handy.

So much this.  Order two, not one, in case you have to go right back into the stator cover for any reason.  Mine disintegrates every time.

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