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Fuel pump and sound


VeeEffArah

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Working on getting my '00 put back together after having the fuel injectors cleaned from bike sitting by previous owner for over a year or so.

All buttoned up to the airbox lid and ready to install the fuel tank. But before I do that, I recall the pump does prime when the key and switch are on, but to me, it seemed to be a slower and lower tone or sound than most videos I've seen and heard.

Maybe strange wording and reference, but most others sound like a fast "wheeeeeennnnn" but my bike was a slower "whuuuuurrrrrr".

Battery is brand new and 100% charged.

 

Perhaps it's normal and I'm over thinking..... or should I pull it before putting the tank back on and all the fuel lines and wiring hooked up?

As typing this inquiry, thought to my mind is the FSM test to see if it flows the minimum rate for the 10 seconds.

 

Input from the wizards ?

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You might want to confirm that the Green Ground wire at the Fuel Pump is indeed properly Grounded.

A poor ground will create your slow pump operation. With Ignition to off do an ohms check of the FP ground wire back to the Battery Negative terminal, it should be near Zero ohms.

I'm fairly sure the FP ground goes through the dreaded orange ground block located just above the chain guard. See photo.

You should also confirm that the 12v being supplied from the Fuel Cut Relay (for 2 to 3 secs at switch on) is 12v relative to battery Negative terminal and the pump ground wire.

Also make sure the FP electrical connection is clean and good.

 

IMG_0638.JPG

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Keep in mind that what you normally hear is on a full fuel system, if you've had things apart there will be air in the system that would affect the way the pump runs/sounds on its first cycle. Maybe BS but worth considering.

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Thanks D, The p/o did drain the tank for an unknown amount of time. I put about 3 gallons of fresh fuel in it trying to start it once at my shop. Tried many times and was paying attention that the FP was priming with the necessary "whining"  sound.

Was when I found he had fiddled with the thing and theTB was loose / out of intake boots and hoses and such detached. That started my trek to this point.

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6 hours ago, VeeEffArah said:

All grounds checked like 3 times. Orange block was inspected and looks new. 

I'll check more from above suggestions when back at the shop.

 

Another good way to verify a Ground is to make sure there is No voltage on it.

 

Eg. If you clip the Black lead of your voltmeter to the battery Negative, then with the Red lead probing the Green Ground wire at the back of connector of the Fuel Pump, ( note - connector must be connected to the Fuel Pump) then switch on ignition for the 2 to 3 secs fuel prime, you should Not see a voltage appear during the prime. If you do read a voltage the Ground is NOT at ground potential = Bad Ground.

 

If your new Fuel Pump is non OEM then I guess there's a good chance it might not sound the same!

 

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I will stand corrected. The more I dig into this thing, the more I doubt what the PO told me. Or maybe it was the shop that tried to get it going for him, Hard to tell.

All grounds good and no voltage for the check Grum outlined.

Did the 10 second FP test and only got 2 ounces in the 10 seconds. 3 different times and same outcome. And a bit of fine grit in the bottom of the catch cup.

So drained the tank and removed the fuel pump ( which pulled out with ZERO effort )  to find... a NOT stock fuel pump and not any of the mesh looking stuff or rubber wrap piece at the bottom... UGH.

 

 

 

20230324_175519.jpg

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54 minutes ago, VeeEffArah said:

Did the 10 second FP test and only got 2 ounces in the 10 seconds. 3 different times and same outcome. And a bit of fine grit in the bottom of the catch cup.

Thats very bad, less than half the required flow rate. Is there any way of knowing if the Fuel Filter was replaced with the pump? Might be worth replacing the filter on spec then recheck flow rate! Grit in the catch cup is not a good sign as well!

Good to see you did the power and ground check for the FP, well done.

 

Good luck.

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1 minute ago, Grum said:

Thats very bad, less than half the required flow rate. Is there any way of knowing if the Fuel Filter was replaced with the pump? Might be worth replacing the filter on spec then recheck flow rate! Grit in the catch cup is not a good sign as well!

Good luck.

 

No idea on the filter at this point and not willing to chase the previous owner. Had to get gas cap key from his daughter couple months back and she said he is construction worker on high rise and large hotels and usually gone months at a time. 

Guess that brand X fuel pump explained the odd sound. Quick search on the web indicated that pump is by Quantum and they show to fit 98-09.

Almost want to replace the entire thing, even with a used ebay unit from a Gen 5 bike.

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Or try again tomorrow. Friend helping me just admitted he forgot to jump the fuel cut relay on "his side" of the bike. 

But the fine stuff in the cup still is an issue.

 

 

aaugh.webp

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5 hours ago, VeeEffArah said:

Or try again tomorrow. Friend helping me just admitted he forgot to jump the fuel cut relay on "his side" of the bike. 

But the fine stuff in the cup still is an issue.

Mate.....Be Very Very careful when jumping/bypassing the Fuel Cut Relay. You need to jumper the Black/White wire to the Brown wire NOT the Brown/Black wire if you get this wrong you Will DESTROY your ECM. This has happened!

Double check this BEFORE switch On.

Screenshot_20230325-112118_Gallery.jpg

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35 minutes ago, VeeEffArah said:

Friend helping me just admitted he forgot to jump the fuel cut relay on "his side" of the bike. 

Not sure what you're saying here "his side of the bike"?

In order to run the pump for 10sec for the FF test, you either need to provide external 12v to the FP connection for 10secs OR bypass the FC Relay using a wire jumper for the mentioned wires on the relay base, then switch on Ignition for 10secs.

Otherwise your FP will only operate for the 2 to 3 secs prime at switch On!

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"His side" during this exercise was the right hand side of the bike. I was on the left and had a finger over the return hose port and holding the fuel tank. He failed to put in the jumper wire as he said was too focused on the hose into the can and then the start/stop switch operations.

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5 minutes ago, VeeEffArah said:

"His side" during this exercise was the right hand side of the bike. I was on the left and had a finger over the return hose port and holding the fuel tank. He failed to put in the jumper wire as he said was too focused on the hose into the can and then the start/stop switch operations.

Umm so that means you didn't run the pump for 10sec for the FF test?? Pump needs to run continuously for 10secs.

 

I'm confused.

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Apologies for the confusion. Yes, my friend held the return hose into a container and then turned on the switch for the 10 seconds, then off. He said he forgot to put the jumper wire into the connector during a discussion on the issues after I had pulled out the fuel pump.

My hands were full holding the fuel tank and a timer and keeping a finger over the port that the return line was removed from.

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Well that explains why you only saw 2 ounces of fuel flow 

Simply switching the Ignition On or the Kill switch from off to run will Only give you 2 to 3sec of pump run time, not the required 10secs!

 

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That is my revelation after knowing about the lack of jumper, and thanks for confirming. If it flows as it should after the re-test with jumper in place, I'll just order a new filter and the return line filter kit and bring it back to life..hopefully.

Still re-learning these VFR's

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Result. Properly jumped the fuel cut relay and about 5.5oz of fuel each try over the 10 second span. And none of the grit these times either.

Still think I'll install a new fuel filter and hoses because the reviews I've read on this Quantum fuel pump kit say the hose provided is not very good.

And not knowing the history or time frame of the fuel filter.

 

Anyone know the intank fuel hose size by chance. Don't plan to pull the FP until the other parts arrive.

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