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The Ultimate VFR800...


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Alright... so the kickoff here was the fact I hadn't ridden my poor bike in years, mostly due to job change. As in, I was restructured out of my day job and I decided to make my side hustle into a self-sustaining endeavor. That meant putting all the frivolous stuff like toys and vacations on hold till I could find my niche/rhythm/whatever. Along the way, that meant taking my VFR apart so I could use it as a development mule for a subframe conversion project:

 

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That left me with my bike on my bench sans rear body... and it just felt like it was time to dive in vs putting it back together as it was. 

 

The first thing I really wanted to try was fitting the Ducati rear wheel, as I made a kit for it and wanted to sell the extras to pay bills. So, I dug into cleaning & assembling the Duc axle and cleaning the swingarm.

 

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I used 1098 parts for my bike, and I upgraded from oem Ducati with a better brake rotor, titanium bolts and nuts, quick change sprocket carrier and a few other bits. The Duc brake caliper is stock. 

 

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Then things got real... teardown time! Lots of grime but thankfully the bike has always lived indoors when not on road trips.

 

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Once the headers were off I could swap out the oil pan for a spare one I modified years ago to accept a Fumoto drain. I'll now regain the fairing tabs I had previously broken off mine.

 

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So yes, I did say supercharger on that list... crazy story in itself... it was purchased new by VFRD member Arrow in Istanbul, Turkey. He installed it and had it tuned in the Netherlands where it pulled 202hp on that particular dyno. He later removed it and sold it to another VFRD member zRoyz in Australia where it sat on a shelf for a few years. Roy listed it for sale in a VFR fb group and somehow it didn't sell for months, even though the price was good. I happened to see the listing months later when someone bumped the topic, and I jumped on it. That was back in 2016 or 17... I was happy to just own the kit and wasn't too fussed about installing it as I considered it an investment at the time. 

 

Crazy story time... I dug the kit out of its hidey hole in my garage to look it over when I got into this rebuild. It was an odd time of the day, I hadn't touched it the kit in literally years and so I was pretty disturbed when I woke up the next morning to see I had received a fb message from Murray(phantom here) informing me that Roy had been in an accident during a group ride and did not survive his injuries. The crazy thing is, after calculating the time difference, I was looking through the kit and reflecting on how it came to my possession at the same time the accident occurred. I got the feeling it was my sign to go all out and throw the kit and the full kitchen sink at the bike, and bring it to the VFRD Spring ride to get it in front of Roy's online friends and do a burnout for him.

 

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Look at these goodies...

 

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I went with Conti RA3's and very glad I did - although I did quickly regret ordering a 180 to fit on the 6" 1098 wheel. The profile was jacked and I ran off the edge of the tire on the first ride nowhere near the lean limit. I ended up putting about 50 test miles on it and switched out to a 190 in TN right before the spring ride. 

 

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For the front brakes, I went with a set of CBR1000RR monoblock calipers. I bought a used set on ebay and went to town refreshing them. I have set up a Cerakote application process in my shop and I coated these in Stainless and Graphite Black lettering. I used my vinyl cutter's software to create layout templates and stencils for the lettering. 

 

Cerakote is a cool product, it is MILES above and beyond using powdercoat. It's very thin and very tolerant of high heat, abrasion, and solvent. I have submerged test samples in both brake fluid and acetone overnight and the coating was not phased at all. 

 

As received

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Prepped

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First color

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Stenciled

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Done

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Test fit with fresh titanium bolts

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Speaking of titanium, I sprinkled some out back too...

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No easier time to install the Factory Pro shift kit, let's have at that

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Top it off with a new front sprocket

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And of course we can't cover that with a grungy cover, so let's clean that too and toss in a new plastic speed sensor adapter and Oberon clutch slave for good measure

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First Toro kit part installed

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It was at this point things began looking a bit hectic...

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So let's keep going...

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I rebuilt a spare throttle body with cleaned & flow matched injectors, and new silicone hoses

 

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And replaced the wax unit with new, even though the old one with almost 50k was still good. A lot of the small things are easy to replace while everything is apart, well worth the small extra expenses to do them while the bike is apart vs digging back in again later. 

 

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Speaking of things that are worth replacing proactively... I'll get to the details of my stator and charging system upgrade later, but here's what my 47,xxxmi stator plug looked like. Not touched since factory install. Bike was charging properly when I last rode it, looks like it was about the go though. 

 

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With the motor cleaned up, it was time to start throwing new parts back on it. I replaced every cooling system hose, o rings, and thermostat. All new. 

 

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Also media blasted the tstat housing parts to pretty them up and check for pitting corrosion - all good. 

 

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Replaced the spark plugs with oem equivalent

 

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Upon installing the new throttle body and mock up of Toro plenum, I found the first of a few kit-related issues that needed solving. 

 

The fiberglass intake hat had shrunk and deformed over time (as thick fiberglass resin does), causing cracks and deformation. The cracks were just on the outside surface, so I lapped the faying surface to get it flat before installation. I've confirmed that this cracking and deformation is not unique to my kit, so if you're one of the few that have one, check yours if you haven't already!

 

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And then the frame went back on, plus a test fit of the Rotrex

 

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Around this time I got my wheels back. I wanted to stick with an oem grey color, and I'm really happy with how this Prismatic Wet Charcoal turned out. 

 

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I fitted angled aluminum valve stems before popping the tires on

 

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Test fit of my billet R1 rotor adapters with R1 spec 320mm EBC "Vee" rotors.

 

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Now, while measuring and fitting the front end conversion was fairly straightforward, these next two sub-projects were neither straightforward or easy. 

 

These two(more like 4, really) projects address two more issues prevalent in the Toro kit:

 

A - the added power creates extra heat, and that heat needs to be dissipated while hampered by the borderline adequate folly that is side mount radiators, compounded by the downsizing(on a 6g) and downward relocation (out of the airflow) of the right side radiator

 

and B - the lack of any cooling for the supercharger oil which Rotrex states is REQUIRED for longevity and warranty

 

A sub issue is that since Dan developed the kit, Rotrex has updated the Rotrex C15 design to delete a seal on the blower shaft. This means that if I installed the kit as designed, and needed to replace the blower unit in the future, all the oil would leak out of the unit as the oil reservoir was located above the horizontal centerline of the unit(at the front of the airbox, behind the steering neck).

 

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It took days of pondering, staring, test fitting, and calculating to get this sorted out. 

 

The short story is that I ended up using the left side 6g radiator along with a lower radiator from an 8th gen for the coolant, and converted the right side 6g rad to become a Rotrex oil cooler. 

 

The longer version is that I also ended up redesigning the engine oil cooling system as the new coolant flow conflicted with the oem oil cooler. 

 

Here's the "blank slate"

 

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First up, I had to mock fit the blower pulleys and belt to see if there was room to route the hose down to the 8g lower rad instead of up to the 6g oem location

 

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*just*

 

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While working on that, Traxxion returned my goodie box

 

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Rapid Bike delivered my Race unit

 

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And I had a steel template cut that would allow me to test handlebar riser positions

 

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More test fitting

 

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Then I squirrel-brained my way into fitting an R1 rear master to the VFR footrest

 

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And made caliper spacers(ended up redoing these later)

 

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Then I realized the caliper color would look great on the footrests, so...

 

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And there's no way I was going to reattach the grungy heat shield to my nice rearset, so I coated it black. 

 

But then I also realized I could do better than that, so...

 

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I managed to do some programming and milling while that was curing

 

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Also made up some stainless steel fluid reservoir brackets, mimic'ing the Japanese "Ladybird" style

 

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Then the redo on those caliper spacers...

 

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And made the captured wheel spacers to locate the wheel perfectly on center in the forks...

 

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"Being surrounded isn't a problem, it's a fortuitous opportunity to attack in any direction"...

 

Minor issue in the grand scheme, but it sure would be nice if the VFRD headers didn't require every aftermarket exhaust be expanded to fit the end pipe. The exhaust shop I used in the past for projects had a changing of the guard, new rules dictated I couldn't be in the work area while they expanded my pipe for me - until after they effed it up, and asked me if it was ok... Thankfully I am handy and was able to fix this. Kind of.

 

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There're 2 3 problems with expanding the mid pipe:

1, it can get torn like this.

2, whether it tears or not, the pipe can expand in a non-concentric way (least resistant section of material expands first), which will shift the tube off center and cause the rest of the system to become permanently misaligned.

3, depending on how far off the VFRD header exit is, it could result in a non-compatible fit of the exhaust. 

 

I was able to make my Remus cans fit, but they are visually off. 

 

They look great though...

 

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Better shot of triples installed

 

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With the front end on, time to do some more radiator fitting. The 8g mounts bolt right on to the 6g block, but there are some mods required. 

 

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I was able to repurpose the entire 6g hose kit I bought, plus 2 pieces I bought separately to link the 8g lower to the 6g left side. 

 

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The plumbing on the right side was pretty simple - rotate the hose down, shorten it, and use a straight nipple to rejoin the 2 hose sections. 

 

On the left is where things got interesting, for a few reasons. The existing hose fittings didn't align for simple hookup. The 8g lower needed to feed into the top of the left side rad due to space restrictions, the fittings were pointing the wrong way, the new hose had to fit around the fan, and oh by the way I lost my filler cap and overflow/return hose when I deleted the right side radiator.

 

Aaaaand, just to make things more interesting, I decided it would be a good idea to integrate a laminova style oil cooler from a CBR929/954, which also needed a feed & return hose for coolant, linked to the rad and water pump...

 

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So about that oil cooler... the fittings on that needed to be repositioned but other than that, it was a simple parts swap as far as fitting it to the VFR motor. 

 

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Good amount of clearance to the header. This same setup is used on NC/RC30's and 45. Just borrowing from HRC's playbook here. The VFR1200 uses a similar oil cooler as well. I bypassed the original cooler feed and return with a section of hose, there is still opportunity to add another remote cooler later. Maybe.

 

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I was actually able to re-use the CBR hoses to some extent to make this work. I added a feed nipple to the water pump cover for the cool side supply,

 

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Hose routing kinda looks like this

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Nothing like new parts to distract... after installing the forks and brakes I was able to measure and order my custom stainless brake and clutch hoses from Core Moto. As soon as they came in, I installed the rear through the swingarm

 

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Clutch line too... along with stainless hardware dressed up in the lathe

 

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While working on the rear brake, I updated my prototype aluminum brake carrier stay (which I had cut from the oem torque arm) to a more durable steel part that I machined and Cerakoted. 

 

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While I was back there I installed the new 520 chain and speed sensor nut

 

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Oh and also decided to swap out the R1 rear master for a new Brembo unit because it was a better match for the rear brake piston size. But it didn't fit... so I made it fit. I had to modify the master body and mill an adapter to maintain the bolt spacing required for attaching the heat shield, and also create a new plunger, and modify the brake lever with a travel stop pin. 

 

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I needed another easy job to build myself up for tackling the radiators, so I knocked out a couple dress up parts for the rear axle

 

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I went back and forth on a color, but in the end did a simple clear Cerakote to show off the machined goodness

 

 

 

 

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I have so much time in figuring out the best way to configure the radiators and coolers. Literally days of standing, sitting, staring, testing. "Difficult to bill for" is putting it lightly.

 

I decided to chop a good right side radiator to use as a Rotrex oil cooler, mostly because it was thin enough to fit in the space. All the aftermarket options I looked at had much thicker cores and would not have allowed the fairings to fit over, or would have touched the block, or had hose fittings that would be in the way or need to be rerouted, so at that point it was just easier to make what was needed. 

 

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Compared to the stock engine oil cooler:

 

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Remember that thing about the Rotrex oil reservoir needing to be stored below the blower unit? Well, that had to fit somewhere too... and custom was the best solution again for that because the kit reservoir was small but also too bulky to be placed anywhere useful. I was using the layout line to visualize the hose routing and fluid flow. 

 

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That aluminum tube was the start of a new reservoir that had to hold fluid below the blower, not overflow, and not slosh so much under braking that it allowed air into the system. I made this little clamp to hold it in place.

 

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Speaking of attacking in any direction... 

 

When you get stuck on one aspect, it's nice to break away and tackle something easy like fitting the new r/r. Unless it doesn't fit, because it's bigger than stock, and there's a supercharger mounting bracket in the way... ugh... so how about we make this simple and stick it in the vast open space(lol) on the other side of the frame?

 

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I drilled the frame for an M6 rivnut, just like Honda does. I added a pin at the second hole location to prevent the bracket from rotating. Not pictured, because I forgot to snap one. 

 

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Then I crossed my fingers and hoped I'd still have room to fit a new fill spigot on the rad 

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I used up my placeholders... not sure what the limit is for each post, rather not find out, so I'll just continue here. 

 

So yeah... modifications to the left side rad to make this work... I had to cut and plug the fittings that didn't work, and create new ones. I cut all the plugs and new fittings from 6061 tube on the lathe and welded them on as needed. 

 

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I cut the new fill spigot from a spare CBR radiator I had kicking around, and stuck it on top of a short extension to aid in filling properly. 

 

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The astute among you may have picked up on the fact the 8g lower has a fan... and the 6g left has a fan... and they are both still employed here. 

 

The 8g VFR fan is controlled by a temp sensor via the ecu, but a quick bench test revealed the motor is a simple 12v connection away from working. 

 

I wanted the 8g fan to be automatically controlled as it is much more efficient than the left side wrong-way blowing 6g unit, so I wired it to the temp sensor located in the 6g rad. The stock fan is wired to a manual switch located on the handlebar for easy access in traffic or low speed situations. 

 

It was around this time I had developed a pretty good idea of what these complex systems needed to look like, so forged ahead with excitement...

 

Here's the link from lower to upper rad taking shape

 

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Rotrex cooler hose nipples and reservoir in creation

 

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Did I mention space was tight?!?

 

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Oil flow = Reservoir > filter > Rotrex > cooler > reservoir

 

Rotrex oil capacity is now a full liter, more than 2x what it was before.

 

Yes, the reservoir is funky... but it'll be hidden, and I'm more concerned about it working than looking good

 

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I added the chimney portion for air expansion under braking, vented at the top. Small hose section for return flow/air exchange at the base of the stack, and another hose loop at the back end for a visual fluid level indicator.

 

How do you excite a lathe? You turn a nipple... 

 

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On the CBR the oil cooler came from, the hot side coolant returns to the block. I decided to route it directly to the lower radiator for convenience, and because I had no doubt this motor didn't need help warming up. 

 

With that solution in mind, it was time to weld up the cooler fittings 

 

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And here's the link connecting the lower & upper rads

 

large.20220315_163752.jpg.e253d78c4f1fbd

 

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Here's one a lot of you will appreciate. 

 

I had in the back of my mind a mod I had seen on a Euro or Spanish VFR forum. It was linked here years ago. Someone was taking 6g stator covers and modifying them to add an oil passage. I was trying to locate the info, and Miguel turned me on to looking at the 8g stator cover as Honda had apparently taken some measures to feed more oil to the stator on that model. 

 

Turns out he was right, and I ran with it. My brand new stator now has a fresh oil feed directly from the oil gallery!

 

My 47,xxxmi stator was still working, but probably close to not, judging by the toasty condition

 

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This is the interior view of the 8g cover

 

large.Screenshot_20220322-124447_Chrome.

 

The red arrow indicates a port for a sensor that is unique to the 8g. It's not used on a 6g, so I turned up a plug and welded it in before I coated the cover. 

 

This is the location on the 6g block that needs to be drilled. 

 

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I turned this drill bushing to allow me to drill the block perfectly

 

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You also have to drill a counterbore for the the orifice o-ring which will be installed

 

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I coated my drill with grease and pecked my way through, evacuating chips very frequently. When I broke through, I had a very tiny amount to clean up. The back side of the hole is not visible, but accessible, by removing the oil filter and threaded filter mount. I stuffed a rag past the new hole, and then used a vac and compressed air to ensure the were no chips left inside. 

 

Once done you can install the oem oil orifice and o-ring

 

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Here's the welded plug

 

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Cerakote color is Burnt Bronze

 

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The interior orifice size, in case anyone is curious:

 

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Job done:

 

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EDIT:

 

I found out later there is one other mod needed to fit this cover... the 8g cover is TALLER/DEEPER than the 6g cover. It interferes with the coolant expansion tank. 

 

I taped over the cover and used a heat gun + hand pressure to form the tank to the new cover until it fit properly with the fairing. It didn't take a ton of effort, but it's worth noting for sure.

 

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Another little job done, this time with an assist from Mr.Burns and his 3d printer to knock out this little spacer that helps mount the Rotrex oil filter on the A&A bracket. 

 

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And now for something completely different... a little electrickery fitting the new fuse box and RB Race in the tail. 

 

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Yaman at Rapid Bike in Florida was pretty adamant that I would void the warranty if I did anything other than look at the box, so when the ground wire was too short to connect to the battery no matter how I routed it, I went ahead and extended it instead of asking... 

 

Installing the RB meant connecting the oem O2 sensors. No problem on a normal install... but the 8g downsized to 1 sensor, and although this VFRD header has that + 1 wideband sensor bung, neither were going to work for routing the wires of the stock sensors. So...

 

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I used a low temp silicon bronze wire to tig braze the bungs in, minimizing the chance of ruining the exhaust flow with burn-through. The wideband and 8g O2 bungs are plugged for now. I have a wideband AF sensor and gauge that will be installed in the future. 

 

The result of the harness recall back in the day was pretty much all of this excess wiring... all now deleted since it was a lot of clutter, and the new SH847 r/r simplifies much of the issue that plagued the stock system anyway.

 

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While installing the switch gear I noticed the turn signal switch was a bit sticky, so broke that down and refurbed it. I also lubed up the switch pods and left them soak in some grease to refresh them a bit before installing.

 

large.20220402_143201.jpg.a766612f11c923 

 

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And then...

 

Just as I was getting excited about firing this bad boy up for the first time in years... 

 

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Ethanol gas kicked my ass

 

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People, use e-free gas whenever possible. My bike has been living indoors in my air conditioned and heated garage/workshop and never outside. This is what ethanol does to metal when left to sit.

 

Keith at MasonCity Honda set me up wit ha great price on a brand new tank. It was a bitter pill to swallow, but I was starting to hit a time crunch to make the '22 Spring ride and I felt it needed to be done. I sourced a very clean, low mile pump assembly from ebay. 

 

I installed a brand new oem fuel filter, gasket and mesh pickup on the ebay unit when I installed the Toro kit upgraded fuel pump and saved the other new parts t orebuild my unit in the future. 

 

For what it's worth, I took a quick stab at cleaning my old tank with CLR. Results were promising, but I didn't care to take the time risk. I can tackle that in the future to have a backup. 

 

Diluted with water...

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1 overnight sit made a good improvement

 

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Freshly rebuilt new-ish pump vs CLR soaked rusty oem pump...

 

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Does carbon fiber make you horny?

 

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I pressure tested all the individual parts I worked on

 

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And then also the full system!

 

large.20220429_155353.jpg.0c3c048d94690e

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9 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

Everything is just too cool.  Nice job.   Gotta ask...   what the hell is this about?

 

 

 

Inexplicable road rash that was present on the ebay caliper. I didn't bother polishing it off because it looks a lot worse in the pic than it does IRL. Don't ask me how they got it on the wheel side of the caliper... 

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Got it.  That's what I was thinking too, how the hell?

 

Anyway, not trying to drag anything down, just curious.

 

Fucking killer work!

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Big expensive box...

 

large.20220418_161931.jpg.9dad75e010f53b

 

So shiny...

 

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One of my favorite mods right here... Installing white leds and swapping the factory film for new polarized film to "flip" the lcd screen colors. It really makes it like a new bike. 

 

Unfortunately, it's the one thing I really goofed up on as I fully removed the lcd screens when I did not need to. I'm gutted to say I fubar'ed the original circuit board and I had to go buy another one. So although my mileage is now lower, it's not original and my badge of honor mileage is gone. 

 

I did mark the cluster with the original mileage so the correct mileage can be preserved accurately. 

 

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Instead of removing the full panel as shown above, I should have just bent it out of the way like I did the second time here:

 

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Testing the film orientation:

 

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Done, off:

 

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And on:

 

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I actually ordered a custom gauge face from Throttlepimp, he did a great job on it but unfortunately the post office took too long delivering it, so it didn't make it in time to be included for the spring ride. 

 

large.20220429_175625.jpg.bc478d3dad4ffb

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I'm a detail guy... gotta have them, I get lost in them... 

 

I moved the rear brake res to the footrest area to buy myself more room for the fuse box and RB install. Unfortunately couldn't get my hands on a translucent smoke colored res to match my bar controls, so I used this white one. The folks at Kurveygirl.com are trying to source me the one I need from Italy. I used one of my stainless mounts for it, and dressed up the bolts with a little torch heat treatment after lathe cuts. 

 

large.IMG_20220426_163658_053.jpg.15e0e2

 

Also added heat shielding to the back of my carbon heat shield, but forgot to take a pic before install. 

 

large.IMG_20220426_163658_061.jpg.816369

 

That was fun, so I torched the titanium rotor carrier hardware too... 

 

large.20220426_164615.jpg.5cc97bf57ded93

 

Aaaand I swapped the clutch slave out for a red one, and torched those bolts too. lol

 

large.20220426_172726.jpg.69ecdd949b3f99

 

Getting a little busy in there

 

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O2 sensor wires were a squeeze

 

large.20220426_193057.jpg.e9b9f21dde1ab5

 

Another favorite little mod - these QD fuel fittings, thanks to sa1713 for the idea in an old thread

 

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As you can see, I opted for fancy oil for the old girl as well. 

 

Pump side

 

large.20220501_104037.jpg.48398b4e236a4e

 

Time to let the Japanese air out of the tank...

 

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Ah, that looks so much better...

 

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Accouterments installed... 

 

large.20220501_112032.jpg.a9c4349b30a273

 

I had sent my rear frame sliders (oem luggage racks) to be powdercoated to match the frame and subframe. Got the mback, stuck them on, and found my new Remus arrangement didn't jive. Thankfully I'm handy... new part designed, tested, cut, coated, and stashed for future install. 

 

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Oh yeah, tank on and other finish stuff happening too of course... double checking hose clamps, tightening bolts, etc

 

large.20220502_191351.jpg.4653829405272e

 

My brackets put to use again

 

large.20220503_105517.jpg.9b61d87b345df5

 

With some mundane stuff like fluid fills and bleeds out of the way, it was time for a most joyous occasion. the first start. 

 

She popped right to life after cycle priming the fuel pump a bit. This was without the blower connected, just a proof of life and throttle body sync to start off. 

 

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Coolant temperature held very steady, and below what I was used to seeing at this point. Very happy so far to see all that effort in those new systems paying off. 

 

I combined a selection of switches and pods from amazon to form this triple switch arrangement. Top switch is heated grips h/l/off, the bottom 2 are for the manual side radiator fan and for switching between Rapid Bike Map 1/Map 2. I even wired the lights to work properly. 

 

large.20220504_214512.jpg.f8039a05dbb7a1

 

In case anyone needed to know, a mini fuse will fit & work in place of an old school fuse

 

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Rear wiring complete...  I deleted the license plate light and used the connector for the fuse box relay trigger.

 

large.20220505_191522.jpg.d62777a0afd39c

 

Was feeling pretty chuffed at this point, nice to have more parts on the bike and less parts on the bench!

 

large.20220505_224624.jpg.e4efc4ab354f2c

 

However, still a fair bit of work to do. Both big and small, a clutch switch for example. Not strictly necessary, but an easy enough little project. the Brembo RCS masters do not come with a provision for mounting a microswitch, so I made one. 

 

large.20220506_134837.jpg.d65653eb651af1

 

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Made & coated a tidy license plate mount

 

large.20220507_022735.jpg.a80eb4af8f0434

 

And then for the fun part! 

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Ooh, ahh...

 

large.20220507_165646.jpg.fa68c682d049df

 

I spent too much time trying to figure out how to have the blow off valve make a funny noise, but short of zip tying a rubber chicken to it, I couldn't find any good options, so just let it be. But yes, that's how a bag of rubber chickens ended up at the Spring ride... 

 

large.20220507_165619.jpg.371fafad1302ae

 

Boost gauge adaption

 

large.20220507_213315.jpg.63daabc7b7eb75

 

Looking more complete by the day

 

large.20220508_013622.jpg.31ca41c0ed5367

 

So much work here, I can't even begin to describe most of it. 

 

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THAT RED!!! WINNING!!!

 

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Here she is running some heat cycles in the yard. I did also Cerakote the Rotrex oil reservoir, and you can see the fluid level indicator hose doing it's job. 

 

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large.20220508_210816.jpg.7251557ab3e386

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