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My 89 vfr won't pass 3000rpm


89vfrrc24

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Thank you all for the suggestions.

 

I thought i needed to hear the prime noise, but in fact, i already took off the pipe that goes from the fuel pump to the carburetores, turned on the motor, and it sends a lot of fuel. So i will presume that the pump is ok.

 

I will check the carbs again. I will make a video with the air filter off and see if they all go up. I didn't think about the carbs because they always work fine.

 

I sent the old starter clutch away 🙁 thought i didn't need her.  But i have some photos.

 

 

Thank you all.

 

 

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No3 slide isn’t moving, the membrane looks OK from the pics

 

The needle is the very dirty or is it just the light 

 

Have you tried swapping the slide over?

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9 minutes ago, Thumbs said:

No3 slide isn’t moving, the membrane looks OK from the pics

 

The needle is the very dirty or is it just the light 

 

Have you tried swapping the slide over?

Swapping slide? Didn't understand. The needle is probably dirty. I think she was never clean.

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Correct 

 

It’s worth clearing the needle first and see what happens 

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looks like you screwed up the diaphragms installation--just as i suspected.  it's really unnecessary to remove the cover over the slides for cleaning in almost every case and not always easy to get them seated back in their grooves correctly after they wrinkle and get old.

 

air compressor can be used to check for proper slide function before carbs go back on.

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7 minutes ago, squirrelman said:

looks like you screwed up the diaphragms installation--just as i suspected.  it's really unnecessary to remove the cover over the slides for cleaning in almost every case and not always easy to get them seated back in their grooves correctly after they wrinkle and get old.

 

air compressor can be used to check for proper slide function before carbs go back on.

I will try to install them right this time

I hope this topic have relation with this carb...

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test slides after reassembling them by shooting compressed air into the oval-shaped section at the top of the airbox side of carb.  slide should rise strongly if the diaphragm is seated correctly. 

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3 minutes ago, squirrelman said:

test slides after reassembling them by shooting compressed air into the oval-shaped section at the top of the airbox side of carb.  slide should rise strongly if the diaphragm is seated correctly.

Thank you so much 

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Sure looks/sounds like a problem relating to ignition, are you sure the start clutch housing that replaced the cracked one has all/every timing trigger “bump” in exactly the same place(s) as the original part? 

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did you remove the stacks when you worked on carbs ?"?  the stacks will block critical holes unless they're indexed EXACTLY right on reassembly.

 

starts and idles well, but you need to test and verify each slide action using compressed air.  its not getting enough fuel to rev up.  did you adjust floats or replace needle and seat ? could be very low fuel level in carbs due to a fault somewhere ?

 

some bikes need the airbox and filter in place to run right, just sayin.......................  🤓  how old is the fuel?

 

  you could try running with the airbox, filter and tank in place as a test......after you're sure the fuel pump is working     🙄 

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10 hours ago, airwalk said:

Sure looks/sounds like a problem relating to ignition, are you sure the start clutch housing that replaced the cracked one has all/every timing trigger “bump” in exactly the same place(s) as the original part? 

I order the original one for this model. Unfortunately i sent the cracked one to garbage. The installation has only one way. You can't go wrong.

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7 hours ago, squirrelman said:

did you remove the stacks when you worked on carbs ?"?  the stacks will block critical holes unless they're indexed EXACTLY right on reassembly.

 

starts and idles well, but you need to test and verify each slide action using compressed air.  its not getting enough fuel to rev up.  did you adjust floats or replace needle and seat ? could be very low fuel level in carbs due to a fault somewhere ?

 

some bikes need the airbox and filter in place to run right, just sayin.......................  🤓  how old is the fuel?

 

  you could try running with the airbox, filter and tank in place as a test......after you're sure the fuel pump is working     🙄 

 

 

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did you verify slide action using compressed air ??????

 

i dunno man, remove all sparkplugs --loosen radiator and swing it forward to access front plugs, then post plug photos here.

 

 

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Irrelevant test because you're sending power to starter and it spins. Diode provides ground-leg to starter-solenoid.

 

Test and verify entire starter-circuit by measuring for +12v on starter-terminal when you push START-button.

IF you have power at starter, then EVERYTHING in chain from battery to power-cable to ignition-switch to kill-switch to start-button to starter-relay to starer-solenoid to power-cable to starter is working properly and don't waste any more time on any of that. Problem lives elsewhere. But you already knew that because starter spins when you push start-button.

 

On 2/14/2023 at 7:40 AM, 89vfrrc24 said:

b) during the installation of the starter clutch, I touched the start button and observed a short circuit that i really don't know where and what cause that.

 

You caused some damage here. Did you find it and fix problem?

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