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Motorcycle wont idle when warm


toreckman

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Well I started dismantling the tank today:

IMG_20230213_175506.thumb.jpg.1b714ca5c7aca8da59fa75778d61f17b.jpg

 

But checked all my tools and didn't see anything that can get the banjo bolt off.  I will have to hunt down that size.


My plan for the tank is:

  • Remove the tank then the pump/filer etc.
  • Seal it some how on the bottom, or probably find something to plug the top (not using the filler cap).
  • Put a load of washers in it and shake the crap out of it.
  • Remove any loose rust.
  • Fill with vinegar (I might as well, as it is ordered and it will be here before the tank seal) and leave for a few days.
  • Fill with bicarbonate of soda mixed with water and leave for an hour or so.
  • Flush well with water, then use a heat gun to dry quickly.
  • Use the Por15 kit ( seen as how I have gone to the bother of getting the tank off and I have it ordered)
  • Get injectors tested and check all fuel tubing.
  • Check fuel filter and fuel pump.  I saw a video on YouTube with someone using compressed air in the reverse direction to the fuel flow to clean particles out of the fuel filter, I will try that before running it.
  • Reinstall, replace tank gasket while I am at it

I would rather do this work now then have issues down the line and I enjoy the work.  I also have a load of other parts/mods to do, so I will probably strip all the fairings off while the tank is soaking and do all of them.

 

Quick question, how heavy is a half tank of gas, roughly?  My fuel gauge was saying a 1/2 tank, but it feels very light, its possible the fuel level sensor or similar is faulty.

 

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26 minutes ago, jroberts427 said:

Mmmm...Tahitian Blue. We never got that color in the states. Saw one in Paris years ago and got a pic. Hope all goes well with the fuel tank. 

Thanks mate. From looking online I only saw 1 original blue tank for sale. It was rusty too, so I will definitely try to restore this one

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when removing the banjo bolt & pump assembly, what o-rings/washers do i need to replace?

The manual says 2x 12mm washers for the banjo bolt, I'm assuming any M12 crush washer will do?

And it mentions a fuel pump o-ring, but no part number.  Is it the same as this?

Do I need to replace the large rubber gasket on the bottom of the tank also?

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I re-used the washers, no issue.  The O-ring is for the fuel level sending unit, the large gasket you'd be very wise to replace.  The old one will be compressed and taken a set.

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Well I finally got the tank off, I couldn't get the banjo bolt off (despite going out and buying a set of hex bits 🤬), it was on really hard and it is now stripped.  I will probably have to drill it out now, unless someone has another method to try? So that will have to be replaced now too.

 

I was greeted with this:

IMG_20230215_200853.thumb.jpg.d5bb6588732d361d53e8e66d0eb96faa.jpg

 

IMG_20230215_200936.thumb.jpg.60f1ae73e5346e9a75e1b5085d311afc.jpg

 

Some rubber disintegrated when I took the pump and filter out, I think it was attached to the metal sponge.  It was very brittle.

 

IMG_20230215_201252.thumb.jpg.3243e8e16bd2356800f7f5eb7904131e.jpg

 

Also there was only like 1/2 a liter of fuel in the tank though the gauge was saying half a tank.  So as suspected the fuel level sensor is probably faulty.

 

Question.  Do these 2 tubes just pull off?  It feels like they are glued on 😂

 

IMG_20230215_201426.thumb.jpg.c8039d4e3aac5866712db2d6307a6194.jpg

 

Next step is to drop a load of screws/bolts/washers in and start stripping off the big bits of rust.

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Before you resort to drilling out that gas tank banjo bolt you may want to try a bolt extractor

I had the same issue on a fork damper rod bolt and the extractor saved a lot of cursing

 

IMG_4580.JPG

IMG_4589.JPG

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01 has wax units for cold start. Mine went & bike would idle up to about 50C then die even when riding it. If you keep the revs up until it hits 60C then all gets good. If you try that & it works then you know its your wax unit shutting off to early. 

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13 minutes ago, Mohawk said:

01 has wax units for cold start. Mine went & bike would idle up to about 50C then die even when riding it. If you keep the revs up until it hits 60C then all gets good. If you try that & it works then you know its your wax unit shutting off to early. 

 

Thank, I will check that when I get the tank sorted.

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Not really, those are a true screw design, the one I used is more of a square design with a biting edge on the corners

IMG_4575.JPG

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6 minutes ago, toreckman said:

Do they work?  I might pick up a bottle.

 

Yes it works quite well in my experience. I like to saturate the bolt and mating surfaces a few times and let it sit for a while before trying to turn it. 

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I shook a few bolts and a length of chain around in the tank and removed this:

IMG_20230216_191004.thumb.jpg.99b2018f6dd33ced83f928956a30c9c0.jpg

 

This was the state of the fuel level unit:

IMG_20230216_181859.thumb.jpg.a822624730359808a760051774745271.jpg

 

The fuel cap lock is also very stiff, there is very little movement of the opening mechanism when you turn the key, also could not get the key out.  There might be a lot to replace.   

 

On closer inspection too, it looks like the drain hole beside the tank cap is clogged, its possible water got in the tank.  I will try clear it with a metal coat hanger.


The vinegar came today and the tank coating was shipped from the UK today.  So I can start that process on the weekend.

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5 minutes ago, jroberts427 said:

 

Yes it works quite well in my experience. I like to saturate the bolt and mating surfaces a few times and let it sit for a while before trying to turn it. 

Interesting, I will give it a try.  I saw WD40 penetrant for sale when I was getting other bits, I will pick some up next time and try an extractor bit.

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The vinegar went in today.   The process begins.

 

I had a nightmare sealing the tank. I ended up having to use the old fuel pump assembly plate as my drill battery died and I couldn't find a suitable metal plate to use to seal the large port.  The longer bolt just spins on the tank also, so really tricky tightening it.

 

I also found a source for a second hand fuel pump and fuel level sensor assemblies for €120, so I will swap the old ones out for these.

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I spent a few hours on it today.  I drained the vinegar, flushed with water, then let some bicarbonate of soda in water sit for awhile. I then flushed twice with water and dried with a heat gun.  I left the tank sitting in front of my radiator, I will leave it overnight.  I also unblocked the overflow, and the other 2 tubes on the bottom.

 

Hopefully I can start the POR15 process tomorrow.  I probably wont have time to complete the whole process.  If I can get the de-greasing and metal prep stages done and dry the tank completely out with the heat gun, I can then do the final stage another day without getting any flash rust.

 

I ordered the required gaskets today, I should get them in 1-2 weeks.

 

I also picked up these yesterday:

IMG_20230225_150108.thumb.jpg.6f5c5d7b5796cae3c3de314118cff88c.jpg

IMG_20230225_150121.thumb.jpg.3088845b4f3169115217e3a32f51b60c.jpg

 

They are in quite good condition especially the fuel level sensor assembly.

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I got the first 2 stages of the POR15 process done.  I'm very impressed with the metal prep stage (phosphoric acid and zinc), this was taken as I was drying the tank after that stage:

IMG_20230228_185927_1.thumb.jpg.f8cae56a9db4694259365c9bb863da7a.jpg

 

Just the final stage to go, I am making sure the tank is bone dry before applying the paint.

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Looks nice! I wish that someone would volunteer to do mine. It has been icky since I bought the bike. 

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