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1987 auto dash on 1986?


DannoXYZ

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I was just given non-running 1987 VFR for FREE!!! 🙂

Can 1987 auto-style dash fit on 1986? Are stays same? Thx

this:
uc?export=download&id=1NuNlHPMSnM83fJGCy

 

to this:
uc?export=download&id=1qaibqi07iOw6kaORW

 

Then again, I'm thinking of installing more modern-looking RX2N
uc?export=download&id=107KR_STOO9waMjZNs

 

Like how it can change colours.
uc?export=download&id=1HRToN3Mor6qFKi98o

uc?export=download&id=1Tj2iLJpxKFx6yNMdH

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Ah thanks!

 

So entire front end needs swapping....


I'll try the Koso RX2N 1st. That's where I want to end up anyway.

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I'll add this just for future info. 

 

The 87 VFR switched to digital ignition and lost the front cylinder cam sensor.  I don't think the 87 "auto-style" dash (tach) would work, even on the 1986 FII with the same looking gauges.

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It should work because I put a 87 700 motor in a 86 frame ie no cam sensor.  I had to compare the wiring harness that go into the cdi and modify one or two of the wires.  I mite of swapped black boxes also its so long ago.  Bike has 750 motor now with HRC cdi. The tach operates off the coil and spark unit for cylinders 1 & 3, yellow wire.  I also put aftermarket gauges on one of my 86 VFR its a PITA  but everything works.

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Thanks! I've got connectors and terminals for dash side. So I should be able to insert Koso RX2N wires into proper positions to match up with factory harness for plug-n-play install 🙂

 

These new aftermarket dashes are amazing. Can be configured to use high/low or 2ndary-coil triggers for tach! Way back when, to use aftermarket tach, I would have to build inverter-circuit to change ground-triggers to +12v positive triggers most tachs wanted.

 

I think I'll not cannibalize,  but revive this '87 to get it back on road. Doesn't seem too be too difficult, something's wrong with fuel-pump circuit. Might be pump, might be relay, might be trigger wire to ignition box. Limited areas that needs testing and fixing. 🙂

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Those fuel pumps lock up. If you do not hear it click its shot.  Check to see if you have power and ground on the connector.  You can also ohm it out check the service manual. You can get a new one on Aliexpress.

 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803160972650.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.46682838rbaDJT&algo_pvid=dc6bec43-7bf3-4220-af64-7cc6735b73ce&algo_exp_id=dc6bec43-7bf3-4220-af64-7cc6735b73ce-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000025336843963"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!38.94!28.43!!!!!%40211be3cd16748621618824261d06d0!12000025336843963!sea&curPageLogUid=e2Qda3R7O3MD

 

If you need any parts hit me up.

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1 hour ago, VFR750F3 said:

Those fuel pumps lock up. If you do not hear it click its shot.  Check to see if you have power and ground on the connector.  You can also ohm it out check the service manual. You can get a new one on Aliexpress.

 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803160972650.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.46682838rbaDJT&algo_pvid=dc6bec43-7bf3-4220-af64-7cc6735b73ce&algo_exp_id=dc6bec43-7bf3-4220-af64-7cc6735b73ce-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000025336843963"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!38.94!28.43!!!!!%40211be3cd16748621618824261d06d0!12000025336843963!sea&curPageLogUid=e2Qda3R7O3MD

 

If you need any parts hit me up.

 oh yeah, that chinese pump won't last long cuz it's just trash like 90%% of commie junk.  always test pump by jumping the relay as relays fail more often than pumps.  some locked up pumps can be revived by grasping the top of the plunger with pliers and pulling it up.

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Depending on the application and usage, I usually don't have a do or die opinion on where shit is made, as long as it meets my personal quality / value criteria.  But...

 

The Mitsubishi fuel pumps are not Chinese, and they are the only ones I will use.  They are extremely resilient and can be acquired at a reasonable cost with some research and time.

 

 

 

 

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Yeah, it comes down to specs importer specifies when ordering from Chinese. Japanese consumers are extremely discerning and require top-quality. U.S. consumers? not so much. When Japan was forced to import  GM cars as part of trade-agreement in '80s, no one would buy them unless they were re-painted to higher standards.

 

We've been getting crap parts here for decades, just noticed it more lately due to Trump's anti-China propaganda. But it's importers for FLAPS that have been buying at lowest-prices possible to maximise profits. Thus we're getting lowest quality as well. So many parts are bad right out of box and needs to be tested and confirmed functional before using.

 

Thanks for tip on pump! If needed, I'll replace with brand-name pump with known good track-record Quantum or All Balls from Canada ( also made in China). Mitsubishi pump hard to find here, I'll look for it. Will also do solid-state driver mod to replace clicker, which is more likely to fail than pump itself.

 

BTW, I haven't had any issues buying from Ali, I buy tonne of stuff for bikes and cars. I look for vendors with +97% rating with easy return/refund policies. Only issue I had was Noco-clone battery-charger that died in a month. They sent me another one promptly and it's been working great! Also bought water-cooled ceramic ball-bearing turbo for my Porsche at 1/20th of Garrett's price. Working perfectly at double factory boost for past 7-yrs. 🙂

 

uc?export=download&id=1rT3w9PeHktaJvT6Ld

 

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23 hours ago, VFR750F3 said:

Most Jap parts are made in China.

 no, i don't believe that. gravity feed is a  very poor option, and problems arise when fuel in tank is below half full.

 

the chinese r/r i recently tried crapped out after just 60 miles !

 

 

997820050_jan27----23002.thumb.JPG.673a2ede0617dbfccecbef529b19932b.JPG

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Surprised I didn't mention on that linked thread that I ran my RC36 gravity feed for a while (weeks or months) after the fuel pump stranded me on an Austrian Autobahn one summer.  Always carry tools!

 

It ran fine, as I recall.  I probably didn't allow the tank to get very close to empty, but it was absolutely fine at half-full and up.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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