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Female plug for regulator-rectifier


vfr800noob

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Hi everyone 

My 17 year old vfr800 has fried its r/r. The female plug is barbequed. I've popped on the new r/r alreqdy and I really don't want to snip all the wires and join them up without a connector

I just want to replace the fried female port. I cannot find one anywhere. Its a 3 pin

 

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Do you mean the plug on the stator end?  That is male plastic enclosure/ female sockets by any chance?

 

If so, I cut my old stator plug to get it out of the bike last night.  If not...sorry 😕

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On 11/12/2022 at 3:36 AM, vfr800noob said:

Hi everyone 

My 17 year old vfr800 has fried its r/r. The female plug is barbequed. I've popped on the new r/r alreqdy and I really don't want to snip all the wires and join them up without a connector

I just want to replace the fried female port. I cannot find one anywhere. Its a 3 pin

 

Problem is... due to way RR runs stator at 100% full-time, ANY connector will end up getting burnt and fried over time. Especially if you make Honda's mistake and use bare brass terminals with no protective coating against corrosion.

People have tried replacing burnt connectors with NEW ones.... nope...

uc?export=download&id=1TfhiZ7Cs0DmFDF20G

 

Only real solution is tie stator wires across with proper western-union/linesman knot, solder and cover with adhesive heat-shrink tubing. Contact surface-area and conductivity is lots higher with solder (less resistance and heat). No exposure to moisture to cause corrosion. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability.

uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_z

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On 11/14/2022 at 5:59 PM, DannoXYZ said:

 

This is a very handy list, for the USA.

 

Eliminating the stator connector is an easy way of reducing the number of potential points of failure in the charging circuit, but if one were so inclined one could instead replace that connector with a sealed one suitable for higher current.  The fact that it is sealed should alone take care of the corrosion issue, such that using 6.3mm blade terminals (e.g., Delphi Metri-Pack 630) might end up being totally sufficient.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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On 11/16/2022 at 12:52 PM, JZH said:

 

This is a very handy list, for the USA.

 

Eliminating the stator connector is an easy way of reducing the number of potential points of failure in the charging circuit, but if one were so inclined one could instead replace that connector with a sealed one suitable for higher current.  The fact that it is sealed should alone take care of the corrosion issue, such that using 6.3mm blade terminals (e.g., Delphi Metri-Pack 630) might end up being totally sufficient.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

Literally my plan. Newer waterproof connectors should do a better job without those bulky and ugly plastic covers. 

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On 11/15/2022 at 4:57 PM, DannoXYZ said:

Problem is... due to way RR runs stator at 100% full-time, ANY connector will end up getting burnt and fried over time. Especially if you make Honda's mistake and use bare brass terminals with no protective coating against corrosion.

People have tried replacing burnt connectors with NEW ones.... nope...

uc?export=download&id=1TfhiZ7Cs0DmFDF20G

 

Only real solution is tie stator wires across with proper western-union/linesman knot, solder and cover with adhesive heat-shrink tubing. Contact surface-area and conductivity is lots higher with solder (less resistance and heat). No exposure to moisture to cause corrosion. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability.

uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_z

 

Hey, I resemble that picture! Those burnt connectors are mine. ha

 

I'm just replacing the stator & r/r now, the replacement soldered and shrink wrapped wires (I put same in ~2005) lasted longer than the actual stator.

 

I may just hardwire the new ones together again but I really would like a plug. I have a set of the Deutsch connectors. 

https://www.deutschconnectorstore.com/deutsch-dt-series-connector-kits.html

 

Any opinions on those with the 4-point crimp connectors?

 

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Screw the wimpy stock harness. Get the Roadstercycle kit that bypasses the stock wiring. Add an Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit to completely eliminate all the high current loads from the wimpy stock harness as well, and life will be good.

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As the RC45 Club's tech advisor I received this urgent photo and a
request as to the reason why fire almost claimed this members RC45 ...

TcvPjD3.jpg

 

Story goes that Bob and Pam Solloway of Coventry UK... a couple of RC
freaks... were on the way to Misano WSB... Pam's RC45 caught fire
while stopped at a light... the flames were beat back by bottle water
from a passing van... they were lucky the incident did not happen out
in the middle of nowhere for it would have spread rapidly to the fuel
lines and then the tank... nothing is worst as watching bike
flambeau...

 

As I prepared my case for Pam I pulled the seat cowl off my RC45 to
send her a pic of the quick disconnect in question... Mercy was I ever
in for a shock... my quick disconnect was bad and about to turn my
bike into a crispy critter...

 

TUwDVzA.jpg

Apparently corrosion builds up between the quick disconnect pins
generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation...

Cleaning the pins with a wire brush and coating them in dielectric
grease can prevent this danger from becoming a problem...

My quick disconnect was toast... I decided to cut and solder the wires
directly and seal with heat shrink tubing...

I've solder the wires directly to eliminate the possibility of fire...

 

Ultimately I installed a Yamaha R1 Rec/Reg in place of the special

RC45 MW4 high dollar Rec/Reg...

 

There's not a lot of extra space on the RC45 for extra stuff... I had to mill
off 1/2 inch off the fins and then design and machine a custom aluminum
hanger... I've completed this mod for other RC45 owners suffering from
charging and running problems...

hpqZqIO.jpg
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7 hours ago, MBrane said:

Screw the wimpy stock harness. Get the Roadstercycle kit that bypasses the stock wiring. Add an Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit to completely eliminate all the high current loads from the wimpy stock harness as well, and life will be good.

That's what I did, I got the SH847 Series R/R from Roadstercycle, ditched the auto-reset circuit breaker, and moved the r/r up on the left frame where the coils used to live - I went to coil on plug. The Roadster beefy wires go direct, fused, to the battery. Headlights are LED. My stator windings were black and crumbling (120K miles), it was very marginal, so I updated to the '03+ stator and (1lb less!) flywheel.

 

flywheel

'99: 3 lb 14.75oz

'03+: 2lb 15.825oz

 

BTW, the stator with shipping is almost $100 US less from Webike in Japan vs. any US dealer I looked at.

 

Sorry for the threadjack!

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5 hours ago, vfrcapn said:

That's what I did, I got the SH847 Series R/R from Roadstercycle, ditched the auto-reset circuit breaker

Glad you trashed the Auto-Reset Breaker. They should never have entered the auto/motorcycle market to protect wiring. A good inline 30amp Fuse or Manual Reset Breaker is the only and safest way to go.

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12 hours ago, vfrcapn said:

 

Hey, I resemble that picture! Those burnt connectors are mine. ha

 

I'm just replacing the stator & r/r now, the replacement soldered and shrink wrapped wires (I put same in ~2005) lasted longer than the actual stator.

 

I may just hardwire the new ones together again but I really would like a plug. I have a set of the Deutsch connectors. 

https://www.deutschconnectorstore.com/deutsch-dt-series-connector-kits.html

 

Any opinions on those with the 4-point crimp connectors?

 

 

I've never used them, but Deutsch connectors certainly have a good reputation.  The main issue for me would be that they require special crimping tools (and the fact that I've already got loads of the Delphi stuff on hand).  Some good info on using those connectors here: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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On 1/7/2023 at 1:00 AM, Grum said:

Glad you trashed the Auto-Reset Breaker. They should never have entered the auto/motorcycle market to protect wiring. A good inline 30amp Fuse or Manual Reset Breaker is the only and safest way to go.

Purely clueless moment... why is that? I mean circuits trip for a reason and that's why an auto reset is a bad idea, I assume? 

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27 minutes ago, WDIV said:

Purely clueless moment... why is that? I mean circuits trip for a reason and that's why an auto reset is a bad idea, I assume? 

You might want to read this article! These things would never be used in the aircraft industry.

 

Auto_Reset_Breakers.jpg

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1 hour ago, Grum said:

You might want to read this article! These things would never be used in the aircraft industry.

 

Auto_Reset_Breakers.jpg

 

Sounds like the logical conclusion I came to in my head. Time to find a small circuit breaker for the bike then. (Just ordered the RR kit from roadster cycle that comes with the auto resetting breaker)

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On 3/21/2023 at 7:32 AM, WDIV said:

 

Sounds like the logical conclusion I came to in my head. Time to find a small circuit breaker for the bike then. (Just ordered the RR kit from roadster cycle that comes with the auto resetting breaker)

Suggestion for the R/R fuse circuit... Metripack 630  as in link...

http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

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On 1/6/2023 at 11:09 PM, vfrcapn said:

That's what I did, I got the SH847 Series R/R from Roadstercycle, ditched the auto-reset circuit breaker, and moved the r/r up on the left frame where the coils used to live - I went to coil on plug. The Roadster beefy wires go direct, fused, to the battery. Headlights are LED. My stator windings were black and crumbling (120K miles), it was very marginal, so I updated to the '03+ stator and (1lb less!) flywheel.

 

flywheel

'99: 3 lb 14.75oz

'03+: 2lb 15.825oz

 

BTW, the stator with shipping is almost $100 US less from Webike in Japan vs. any US dealer I looked at.

 

Sorry for the threadjack!

Appologies for another threadjack post but..... 

@vfrcapn .... so you bought the upgrade parts from Japan source.?.. link to parts? 

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14 hours ago, mello dude said:

Appologies for another threadjack post but..... 

@vfrcapn .... so you bought the upgrade parts from Japan source.?.. link to parts? 

I went through https://japan.webike.net/oem_parts/

 

STATOR 31120-MCW-D03 34,255 JPY with shipping, about $271 US.  It was 6 days from order to delivery on US west coast.

 

Partzilla for example was a little over $350 with tax.

 

Flywheel was used just off of eBay.

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