vfr800noob Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Hi everyone My 17 year old vfr800 has fried its r/r. The female plug is barbequed. I've popped on the new r/r alreqdy and I really don't want to snip all the wires and join them up without a connector I just want to replace the fried female port. I cannot find one anywhere. Its a 3 pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted November 14, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 14, 2022 Search the forum. The info is in here...somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer airwalk Posted November 14, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 14, 2022 Tried eastern beaver? They have almost anything imaginable, including stock-type parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted November 14, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 14, 2022 try these outfits https://www.corsa-technic.com https://www.easternbeaver.com https://motorcycleconnectors.com https://cycleterminal.com https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/connectors-and-accessories.html http://www.vintageconnections.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted November 14, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 14, 2022 Do you mean the plug on the stator end? That is male plastic enclosure/ female sockets by any chance? If so, I cut my old stator plug to get it out of the bike last night. If not...sorry 😕 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted November 15, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 15, 2022 CycleTerminal is my favorite goto vendor for things electrical for motorcycles..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR750F3 Posted November 15, 2022 Share Posted November 15, 2022 electrosport.com possibly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted November 16, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 16, 2022 Joe at Cycle Terminal helped me last time and was great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted November 16, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 16, 2022 On 11/12/2022 at 3:36 AM, vfr800noob said: Hi everyone My 17 year old vfr800 has fried its r/r. The female plug is barbequed. I've popped on the new r/r alreqdy and I really don't want to snip all the wires and join them up without a connector I just want to replace the fried female port. I cannot find one anywhere. Its a 3 pin Problem is... due to way RR runs stator at 100% full-time, ANY connector will end up getting burnt and fried over time. Especially if you make Honda's mistake and use bare brass terminals with no protective coating against corrosion. People have tried replacing burnt connectors with NEW ones.... nope... Only real solution is tie stator wires across with proper western-union/linesman knot, solder and cover with adhesive heat-shrink tubing. Contact surface-area and conductivity is lots higher with solder (less resistance and heat). No exposure to moisture to cause corrosion. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted November 16, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted November 16, 2022 On 11/14/2022 at 5:59 PM, DannoXYZ said: try these outfits https://www.corsa-technic.com https://www.easternbeaver.com https://motorcycleconnectors.com https://cycleterminal.com https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/connectors-and-accessories.html http://www.vintageconnections.com/ This is a very handy list, for the USA. Eliminating the stator connector is an easy way of reducing the number of potential points of failure in the charging circuit, but if one were so inclined one could instead replace that connector with a sealed one suitable for higher current. The fact that it is sealed should alone take care of the corrosion issue, such that using 6.3mm blade terminals (e.g., Delphi Metri-Pack 630) might end up being totally sufficient. Ciao, JZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer WDIV Posted January 6, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2023 On 11/16/2022 at 12:52 PM, JZH said: This is a very handy list, for the USA. Eliminating the stator connector is an easy way of reducing the number of potential points of failure in the charging circuit, but if one were so inclined one could instead replace that connector with a sealed one suitable for higher current. The fact that it is sealed should alone take care of the corrosion issue, such that using 6.3mm blade terminals (e.g., Delphi Metri-Pack 630) might end up being totally sufficient. Ciao, JZH Literally my plan. Newer waterproof connectors should do a better job without those bulky and ugly plastic covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted January 6, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2023 On 11/15/2022 at 4:57 PM, DannoXYZ said: Problem is... due to way RR runs stator at 100% full-time, ANY connector will end up getting burnt and fried over time. Especially if you make Honda's mistake and use bare brass terminals with no protective coating against corrosion. People have tried replacing burnt connectors with NEW ones.... nope... Only real solution is tie stator wires across with proper western-union/linesman knot, solder and cover with adhesive heat-shrink tubing. Contact surface-area and conductivity is lots higher with solder (less resistance and heat). No exposure to moisture to cause corrosion. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability. Hey, I resemble that picture! Those burnt connectors are mine. ha I'm just replacing the stator & r/r now, the replacement soldered and shrink wrapped wires (I put same in ~2005) lasted longer than the actual stator. I may just hardwire the new ones together again but I really would like a plug. I have a set of the Deutsch connectors. https://www.deutschconnectorstore.com/deutsch-dt-series-connector-kits.html Any opinions on those with the 4-point crimp connectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted January 6, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2023 Screw the wimpy stock harness. Get the Roadstercycle kit that bypasses the stock wiring. Add an Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit to completely eliminate all the high current loads from the wimpy stock harness as well, and life will be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted January 6, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2023 As the RC45 Club's tech advisor I received this urgent photo and a request as to the reason why fire almost claimed this members RC45 ... Story goes that Bob and Pam Solloway of Coventry UK... a couple of RC freaks... were on the way to Misano WSB... Pam's RC45 caught fire while stopped at a light... the flames were beat back by bottle water from a passing van... they were lucky the incident did not happen out in the middle of nowhere for it would have spread rapidly to the fuel lines and then the tank... nothing is worst as watching bike flambeau... As I prepared my case for Pam I pulled the seat cowl off my RC45 to send her a pic of the quick disconnect in question... Mercy was I ever in for a shock... my quick disconnect was bad and about to turn my bike into a crispy critter... Apparently corrosion builds up between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation... Cleaning the pins with a wire brush and coating them in dielectric grease can prevent this danger from becoming a problem... My quick disconnect was toast... I decided to cut and solder the wires directly and seal with heat shrink tubing... I've solder the wires directly to eliminate the possibility of fire... Ultimately I installed a Yamaha R1 Rec/Reg in place of the special RC45 MW4 high dollar Rec/Reg... There's not a lot of extra space on the RC45 for extra stuff... I had to mill off 1/2 inch off the fins and then design and machine a custom aluminum hanger... I've completed this mod for other RC45 owners suffering from charging and running problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted January 7, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2023 7 hours ago, MBrane said: Screw the wimpy stock harness. Get the Roadstercycle kit that bypasses the stock wiring. Add an Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit to completely eliminate all the high current loads from the wimpy stock harness as well, and life will be good. That's what I did, I got the SH847 Series R/R from Roadstercycle, ditched the auto-reset circuit breaker, and moved the r/r up on the left frame where the coils used to live - I went to coil on plug. The Roadster beefy wires go direct, fused, to the battery. Headlights are LED. My stator windings were black and crumbling (120K miles), it was very marginal, so I updated to the '03+ stator and (1lb less!) flywheel. flywheel '99: 3 lb 14.75oz '03+: 2lb 15.825oz BTW, the stator with shipping is almost $100 US less from Webike in Japan vs. any US dealer I looked at. Sorry for the threadjack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted January 7, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2023 5 hours ago, vfrcapn said: That's what I did, I got the SH847 Series R/R from Roadstercycle, ditched the auto-reset circuit breaker Glad you trashed the Auto-Reset Breaker. They should never have entered the auto/motorcycle market to protect wiring. A good inline 30amp Fuse or Manual Reset Breaker is the only and safest way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted January 7, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2023 12 hours ago, vfrcapn said: Hey, I resemble that picture! Those burnt connectors are mine. ha I'm just replacing the stator & r/r now, the replacement soldered and shrink wrapped wires (I put same in ~2005) lasted longer than the actual stator. I may just hardwire the new ones together again but I really would like a plug. I have a set of the Deutsch connectors. https://www.deutschconnectorstore.com/deutsch-dt-series-connector-kits.html Any opinions on those with the 4-point crimp connectors? I've never used them, but Deutsch connectors certainly have a good reputation. The main issue for me would be that they require special crimping tools (and the fact that I've already got loads of the Delphi stuff on hand). Some good info on using those connectors here: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html Ciao, JZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer WDIV Posted March 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 21, 2023 On 1/7/2023 at 1:00 AM, Grum said: Glad you trashed the Auto-Reset Breaker. They should never have entered the auto/motorcycle market to protect wiring. A good inline 30amp Fuse or Manual Reset Breaker is the only and safest way to go. Purely clueless moment... why is that? I mean circuits trip for a reason and that's why an auto reset is a bad idea, I assume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 21, 2023 27 minutes ago, WDIV said: Purely clueless moment... why is that? I mean circuits trip for a reason and that's why an auto reset is a bad idea, I assume? You might want to read this article! These things would never be used in the aircraft industry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer WDIV Posted March 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 21, 2023 1 hour ago, Grum said: You might want to read this article! These things would never be used in the aircraft industry. Sounds like the logical conclusion I came to in my head. Time to find a small circuit breaker for the bike then. (Just ordered the RR kit from roadster cycle that comes with the auto resetting breaker) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 23, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 23, 2023 On 3/21/2023 at 7:32 AM, WDIV said: Sounds like the logical conclusion I came to in my head. Time to find a small circuit breaker for the bike then. (Just ordered the RR kit from roadster cycle that comes with the auto resetting breaker) Suggestion for the R/R fuse circuit... Metripack 630 as in link... http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 24, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2023 On 1/6/2023 at 11:09 PM, vfrcapn said: That's what I did, I got the SH847 Series R/R from Roadstercycle, ditched the auto-reset circuit breaker, and moved the r/r up on the left frame where the coils used to live - I went to coil on plug. The Roadster beefy wires go direct, fused, to the battery. Headlights are LED. My stator windings were black and crumbling (120K miles), it was very marginal, so I updated to the '03+ stator and (1lb less!) flywheel. flywheel '99: 3 lb 14.75oz '03+: 2lb 15.825oz BTW, the stator with shipping is almost $100 US less from Webike in Japan vs. any US dealer I looked at. Sorry for the threadjack! Appologies for another threadjack post but..... @vfrcapn .... so you bought the upgrade parts from Japan source.?.. link to parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted March 24, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2023 14 hours ago, mello dude said: Appologies for another threadjack post but..... @vfrcapn .... so you bought the upgrade parts from Japan source.?.. link to parts? I went through https://japan.webike.net/oem_parts/ STATOR 31120-MCW-D03 34,255 JPY with shipping, about $271 US. It was 6 days from order to delivery on US west coast. Partzilla for example was a little over $350 with tax. Flywheel was used just off of eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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