spud786 Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 I still have my 2006 vfr 800, but I ride my Ktm 500 mostly. Unfortunately the Slave on the VFR began leaking, so had to rebuild the slave. This bike was not fun to Bleed a dry system. It would not take a reverse bleed at all. THats normally my route a reverse bleed with my ktm. Forward bleed with a hose and mouth on the bleed nipple no good either. Had to wrap the threads of bleed nipple, and use a Mity Vac, Then id let it pull fluid through the system several times, then Id lock the nipple, while under vacume, and them squeese the clutch open nipple and close. Finally got all the air out, but no way to do a dry system without the Mity vac from my view. and wrap the threads. I post this, cause I found differnt things on the internet, and some are Half bled system , completely dry system is much tougher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted October 21, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted October 21, 2022 If you have an air compressor, buy a vacuum bleeder. I have the Capri Tools model, found on Amazon. Initially, it seems expensive. However, it makes bleeding fluids on anything, effortless. I’ve flushed the brake systems on numerous vehicles, by myself, using it. And, it’ll effortlessly pull fluid through a dry system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted October 21, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted October 21, 2022 I don't know why but the clutch circuit is just hard to bleed when dry. I was successful once I switched to a speed bleeder nipple (comes with coated threads, so no need to wrap with tape). Used a cheapo vacuum bleeder from Amazon that works better than the Mity Vac I had a long while ago. I have to squeeze a few things to make sure it's airtight, but then it applies and holds suction very well. I just replaced the Honda slave cylinder with an Oberon unit and moved the speed bleeder nipple over to it. Worked like a champ, first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 22, 2022 Author Share Posted October 22, 2022 Good to know, now I just have to get a Battery, charged it last night, but not enough oats to spin the motor to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted October 22, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2022 I should add, when I was trying to bleed it from empty, it was with a new master cylinder kit (piston and seal) and new Honda slave cylinder. Still sucked. Speed bleeder made the difference. Should not but did... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted October 23, 2022 Share Posted October 23, 2022 with a dry system the mc must be bled at the banjo bolt FIRST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted October 23, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2022 Can you explain why? I've never had to do that. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted October 23, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2022 I think I "know" he's right but what I do works? 🙃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted October 23, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2022 When I rebuilt mine & changed the hose, it bled fine like I always do. Open the bleed nipple put a clear hose to a container on it. Pour brake fluid into MC reservoir & wait till it appears in the hose on the nipple. Nip up the nipple, then the secret sauce is to pull the lever just enough that the piston seal moves but does NOT cover fluid return hole. Keep wiggling & trapped air will come out of the fluid return hole. Once air stops try a full pull or a few to get pressure in the line, then do more wiggling. When happy line is full and no more air appears, do a full pull, hold it & open the bleed nipple, close nipple, release lever. Repeat until pure fluid comes out of the nipple. Job jobbed 👍 Took longer to write this than it does to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted October 23, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2022 1 hour ago, Mohawk said: When I rebuilt mine & changed the hose, it bled fine like I always do. Open the bleed nipple put a clear hose to a container on it. Pour brake fluid into MC reservoir & wait till it appears in the hose on the nipple. Nip up the nipple, then the secret sauce is to pull the lever just enough that the piston seal moves but does NOT cover fluid return hole. Keep wiggling & trapped air will come out of the fluid return hole. Once air stops try a full pull or a few to get pressure in the line, then do more wiggling. When happy line is full and no more air appears, do a full pull, hold it & open the bleed nipple, close nipple, release lever. Repeat until pure fluid comes out of the nipple. Job jobbed 👍 Took longer to write this than it does to do it. Yep. A lot of people fully squeeze the lever, not realizing what goes on with the piston. Half-strokes and give the air time to escape the bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted November 6, 2022 Author Share Posted November 6, 2022 Follow up , my first ride with new slave was fine, but then the master began leaking, it was fine before , so I ended up rebuilding that also. I was able to just remove the master from the bars turn it straight up , and rebuild on the bike. Following ride all back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 11, 2023 Author Share Posted January 11, 2023 So I think I figured out why my slave began leaking in the first place, and then after fixing the slave, the master plunger began leaking. It was because my return port in the master got clogged and the system was building excess pressure. I noticed how my lever was all the way out tight, even on the lowest setting, then one day I ran the bike into 9,000 rpm in a 5th gear on the clutch was slipping, I remove a little fluid from the slave and lever is fine again for 20 miles. after doing this a couple times, I started paying attention to the master return port, which id already stuck a pick into the hole and a fine wire. So I took a large Needle this time and tapped it in with some pliers, and Bam that was it , that hole was plugged (all excess pressure released), but that must have been why the slave and then the master began leaking, excess pressure build up. the new seals and stuff never leaked, it just built enough pressure locking the lever full out and then the clutch would slip in a tall gears hard on the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer WDIV Posted January 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 12, 2023 That hole is a LOT smaller than any of you let on. Learned that when I rebuilt mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer WDIV Posted January 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted January 12, 2023 Also an ultrasonic cleaner works wonders 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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