Clutch plates

[vfrbart]

I have about 80,000 miles on these plates...I would like to know if I should think about replacing them?

 

[joneill]

If the clutch is performing well, then no.  If the clutch is grabby or slipping, then maybe.   The Honda factory procedure would replace the parts if they are worn beyond the service limit.

 

I replaced my clutch disks and plates in my 1998 VFR at 90K miles because I was getting some occasional slip under heavy acceleration.  I ordered new clutch friction disks, clutch plates, springs and a clutch cover gasket.  When I checked the original clutch plates, disks and springs they were within spec and measured exactly the same as the new Honda replacement parts.  The service limits are in the Honda factory service manual.  The only thing I noticed was the clutch disks after 90,000 miles look a little glazed.  Since I had the new parts I put them in.  In hindsight, I could have hit the clutch disks with an emery cloth to remove the glazing and been as good as new.  All the original parts; clutch plates, clutch disks and springs measured exactly the same as the new replacement parts and within spec.  There was virtually no measurable wear in 90K miles.  Just a little glaze on the surface of the clutch disks.  The clutch basked looked great also.  No visible wear, just some dark discoloring where the clutch plates sit against the basket. 

 

I saved all my old parts and put them away as spares.

 

Note the 1998-99 clutch is slightly different than he 2000-01 clutch.  The 1998-99 clutch has one more pair of friction disk /clutch plates.  Something to keep in mind when ordering a replacement clutch pack.  I used all Honda OEM replacement parts ordered through Ron Ayers.  www.ronayers.com

 

 

[ariesblade]

Note: there are more differences between the clutch packs. I have spent months of my time finding the information as it is very poorly documented (local honda dealer also didnt know the difference)

 

Plates:

Friction plates for 98-99 have an extra (larger i.d. plate) that stands out from the rest

Do note that the plate mentioned above is the only item differing in partnumber. the rest of the friction and steel are identical, just the quantity is different.

Judder spring + washer at the end of the clutchpack (after you pull all the plates out)

Springs (the 00-01 has heavier clutch springs)

 

grabby/unpredictable clutch can have some causes, I would go in this order to do the easily accessible stuff first:

inspection + rebuild Slave cylinder: mine looked horrrible when i pulled it, replaced the piston, seals, and fluids

Inspection of clutchpack: grabbyness can be caused by burrs on the inner or outer clutch basket, these can be lightly filed smooth or replaced, depending on what you are comfortable with

[vfrbart]

Thanks for the info....I feel as if it only slips a little under hard acceleration when it's hot...

[interceptor69]

Same.  Around 50-60 mph in 3rd gear then wide open throttle will induce slippage for 1-2 seconds then it will catch and catapult me into extralegal speeds.  My '98 has right at 50,000 miles on it. 

[raYzerman]

I'd ensure you have fresh fluid flush, check the slave is not sticking (for that delayed launch).  Notchy clutch basket can contribute..... full inspection recommended, clean them up while you're in there.  Basically it's preventative maintenance for the price of a gasket.

[BusyLittleShop]

If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest is some
good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't
automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your
clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to
determine serviceability and within the factory specifications...

 

Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal
glazing and contaminates...

 

Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty
of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness
in thousands of an inch or mm...

 

First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay
over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a
circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away
remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate
looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck
thickness...

 

Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat...
make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness
range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled
them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface...
you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks...

 

Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage...
Have a new gasket standing by...

 

[Terry]

I replaced the clutch fibre discs on my last 99, when it had around 95,000km. The clutch was becoming grabby and making a smooth take-off was getting tricky, but I had no slip problems. I replaced the fibre discs with EBC parts and added some new EBC springs while I was at it. This basically gave me an as-new clutch with a wider engagement band, and I looked like I knew how to ride again. 

[spud786]

I spend most of my riding on my KTM, the VFR sits alot but ridden ever 2 weeks to a month, but it has 115,000 miles on it, all on mostly cheap oil, never has showed slippage (DIESILS OR CHEAP MC OIL).

 

My ktm on the otherhand, never had slippage either, till I began running a full syn oil, including a new oem clutch pack during that time, EVEN ADDED HEAVIER SPRINGS(still had issues), I scrubbed the plates and went back to Dino oil , no more issue.

 

Both plate sets were oem.  but first plates set 50,000 mile no issue,         2nd plate set 15,000 miles Dino oil , but plaqued with full syn oil , high load  slippage.  Both oils the same brand, and both rated MA2,  but the dino oil is best for the clutch.