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Blown two 30 amp fuses in a row


PlentyMech

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Hi, I’ve now has two blown 30amp main fuses and a partially melted fuse holder on my last two runs. First one was about after 60 seconds and I had heated grips on full. I’ve had many rides previously with the grips on full with no issues. Second time was after a 35-minute commute home (no h. grips) with no issue but went out again about 10 mins after getting home and it blew again just out of the driveway.

 

Only recent issues was I dropped the bike on the RHS a month or so ago but not ridden it since.  I recently noticed the rear brake like was stuck on and played with the rear brake connections as it was on this side it fell and suspected that had caused it. Couldn’t get it to turn off until it seemed to by itself or one last rummage disconnected it. Now the brake light works but only from the front handlebar lever until I can get time to take the rear brake pedal off and check it out.

 

Do you think the rear brake issue could be enough to causing a short that would take time to melt the 30A fuse?

 

Thanks for any help.

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Anytime you start blowing fuses, especially the 30A main fuse, you better be checking the running voltage at the battery OR directly out of the R/R (if possible). That’s always step #1. 

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On 7/26/2022 at 9:57 AM, PlentyMech said:

Do you think the rear brake issue could be enough to causing a short that would take time to melt the 30A fuse?

 

Hi Paul, sorry to here you have more bike gremlins!

To answer your above question No, unless you're referring to Main Fuse A!

 

Important here to be sure of exactly which of the two Main 30amp Fuses you are blowing, A or B? Sounds like it's B, however either fuse blowing will kill your engine instantly.

 

- Main Fuse B 30amp is for your R/R and All the EFI stuff. It is located next to your Starter Relay(not in it) And has nothing to do with the Brake Light Circuit. It's generally the fuse which suffers the most from overheating, poor connections and burnt wiring.

As ducnut mentions, a failing R/R could also take out this fuse.

You need to repair/replace the wiring and fuse holder if there is any evidence of Main Fuse B stress, it's possibly the root cause of the fuse blowing, then confirm your charging system voltage.

 

- Main Fuse A 30amp is for All the other Electrical Services (including Brake Lights). It is located in the Starter Relay.

 

Do you have a wiring diagram?

 

Hopefully your heated grips are powered directly from the battery via a relay and having its own inline fuse, therefore not effecting either Main Fuse A or B. Best to make sure of this that the heated grips are Not somehow wired into Main Fuse A, or especially Main Fuse B.

 

Most likely if you had a Brake Circuit issue you would be blowing the Brake Sub Fuse 10amp, or worse case scenario it could take out Main Fuse A 30amp. under certain conditions!

 

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Thanks all (and especially Grum for reaching out to me). I replaced the fuse holder with a new one and so far so good. Before the fuse would heat up at idle but now after a commute it's hardly warm to the touch so may have been dirty / corroded connections as mentioned causing the resistance.

 

 

IMG_1881 (Small).JPG

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On 7/31/2022 at 10:31 AM, PlentyMech said:

Thanks all (and especially Grum for reaching out to me). I replaced the fuse holder with a new one and so far so good. Before the fuse would heat up at idle but now after a commute it's hardly warm to the touch so may have been dirty / corroded connections as mentioned causing the resistance.

 

 

IMG_1881 (Small).JPG

 

There is still another weak link in the system that causes lots of problems, the white single wire joiner, that needs to be taken out and a good solid connection made.

 

EF79D2E6-8E27-4F00-87F3-C99F83E6BE32.thumb.jpeg.09d26801311b53185228c34b60382593.jpeg.jpg

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@Grum what should be used here instead? I have little knowledge of electrics but can,  kind of, solder and bodge metri packs together. 

 

Thanks for any tips you can share.

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4 hours ago, Bren said:

@Grum what should be used here instead? I have little knowledge of electrics but can,  kind of, solder and bodge metri packs together. 

 

Thanks for any tips you can share.

Hi Bren.

To be honest I've never had to do the job on my three previous 6gens.

But if needing to....... Firstly I would remove the battery to gain better access and try to expose more of the Red/White wire and joiner. Cut the joiner out then either neatly and properly solder and sleeve the wires together Or use something like this, a Yellow AMP inline splice capable of taking 12 to 10 gauge wire, hand crimping making sure you have a very good strong crimp, as well as additional sleeving over the splice. I have used many of these Red, Blue and Yellow AMP inline splices over many years and provided a proper crimp is carried out they work perfectly, they are an Aircraft spec item.

 

If you have any doubts maybe have a chat to a good local Auto Electrician.

 

ITP_M7928_5-5_t.jpg

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Hi Grum, 

 

Thanks for your valued advice as ever! It's great so many knowledgeable people helping others on this board 👏 

 

Off to amazon I go....

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