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Main fuse B replacement?


Bren

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I found the pic below yesterday and obviously it needs attending to, very crispy and caused the bike to cut out after starting.

 

Is there a recommended fix or connector for this? I did search but nothing mentions a replacement.

I have these generic 30a fuse holders with a cover I can swap in but is there something more elegant, more OEM?

Thanks for any hints.

20220722_141356.jpg

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Factory ATC/ATO fuses max out at 30a and you have issues well below that due to bare brass terminals and corrosion. I prefer to upgrade to 30a MIDI fuses (all parts rated much higher) with coated connectors entire way.

 

uc?export=download&id=1Uvq9MdXRwIC_Wcdit

 

 

1/4-hole solder-lugs, for new battery cable and Red power wire

- MIDI fuse holder
- 30a MIDI fuse
  


This is what I use on my sailboat. Tin-plated contacts are way more corrosion-resistant. Clamping pressure from bolt-on interface give better power-transmission and keeps water out. Once installed, you can be sure this is last time you have to deal with fuse-B... for 50-yrs at least!

 

I prefer to use solder-lugs rather than ring-terminals for power applications. Much more robust, corrosion-resistant and handles much, much more power-transferred without heating up. All lugs are crimped, soldered and adhesive heatshrink-wrapped. For wiring of fuse-B, we can probably use hand-held hex-crimper. Don't forget to slide on adhesive heat-shrink wrap 1st.

 

uc?export=download&id=1kV4azrSGxWj9VMil0

 

Wire connections are tied, soldered and heat-shrink wrapped in pro-motorsports, military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. If it can be done better, I prefer to do it. Rather than just re-creating budget-minded flawed OEM designs.

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Or something like this, needs to be fairly well weather proof. Try visiting your local auto parts store or local electrical parts suppliers.

You want a nicely crimped or soldered connector to suit your battery positive terminal on one end, the other end either a well crimped inline joiner or solder and sleeved to the Red/White wire, removing the original inline joiner. And only use a 30amp fuse of course!

 

IMG_1340.PNG

image.png.551c9d5b127f966320a481836519bda6.jpg

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Main Fuse B of the battery starter cable.

I ignored mine. I just happen to have the seat off, started the bike and saw a nice blue flame just like DannoXYZ's 3rd picture shooting out of my PC5. #ExpensiveSmokeyProblem.

With the tight space in there, I also wanted to keep it OEM and bought used battery starter cable like this.  It's not as good as DannoXYZ solution but I now keep my eye on it

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3 hours ago, Grum said:

Or something like this, needs to be fairly well weather proof. Try visiting your local auto parts store or local electrical parts suppliers.

You want a nicely crimped or soldered connector to suit your battery positive terminal on one end, the other end either a well crimped inline joiner or solder and sleeved to the Red/White wire, removing the original inline joiner. And only use a 30amp fuse of course!

 

IMG_1340.PNG

image.png.551c9d5b127f966320a481836519bda6.jpg

 

 

 

no one who ever inspected the wiring on a simple chinese scooter would want to depend upon their components, including the in-line fuse holder.

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6 hours ago, squirrelman said:

 

no one who ever inspected the wiring on a simple chinese scooter would want to depend upon their components, including the in-line fuse holder.

Danno's suggestion is certainly a better electrically secure and professional option for sure.

 

Its just not that easy or practical to change that type of fuse in case of a rare blow for whatever reason, particularly out on a ride somewhere.

Unless you also disconnect a battery lead you will be unbolting a 12v active side of the blown fuse that you're trying to remove, something you'd definitely need to be aware of!

If the bike was a 6gen there would be an even greater need to have a good quality, easily replaceable, Blade type 30amp fuse B. As always YMMV.

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Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated. 

 

I have same or similar as Grum pictured but the wire is thinner than the battery cable. I'd be worried its not heavy enough to carry the load from the battery if I splice it onto the cable or maybe as its such a short distance, a few centimetres, it wouldn't matter?

 

Danno's solution looks robust but I'll have to see if I can get these in Europe. Don't know if I can get this on with the limited cable length down by the battery box though.

 

For some reason I had a 20 amp fuse in there, it's probably from the time I rigged the original RR with 2 extra power leads and reduced the fuse size in all 3 fuse holders as a safeguard. This was a common fix some years ago before the FH020 came along which I did along with Metri Pack connectors and fuse holder.

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After a quick ebay search I can pick up a used starter relay with cables and the fuse B holder for relatively cheap. I'm going to order it and swap it in after going over it. I'll just have to check now and again to make sure the same problem doesn't reoccur.

At least then I've got spares.

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Replacing the fried OEM fuse holder with another one wouldn't be a great idea, IMHO.  It likely fried not due to overcurrent (but, given it is a VFR, you might want to check that...), but due to corrosion.  Unsealed connectors are prone to corrosion when used in automotive applications, so I would replace that fuse holder with a properly sealed one, e.g., Metri-Pack 630.  

 

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As you're already familiar with Metri-Pack connectors, you know that they are good quality and widely available.  Get the version for 3mm2 cable (pic shows a seal used with smaller wires).

 

MIDI fuses are good (for 30A to 200A), but it's harder to find sealed holders for them, so I would use them only inside a car/van, not on a bike, which is exposed to the environment.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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13 hours ago, JZH said:

but due to corrosion. 

 

 

Exactly right. previously my VFR lived a few miles from Muir Woods, heavy moisture from the Redwoods..  When I purchased the VFR, I cleaned and ox-guarded all the plugs except Main Fuse B, big mistake. Today I checked the replacement OEM fuse holder and it's still in excellent condition.

 

Thanks for the recommendation/reminder for Metri-Pack connectors.

 

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, JZH said:

Replacing the fried OEM fuse holder with another one wouldn't be a great idea, IMHO.  It likely fried not due to overcurrent (but, given it is a VFR, you might want to check that...), but due to corrosion.  Unsealed connectors are prone to corrosion when used in automotive applications, so I would replace that fuse holder with a properly sealed one, e.g., Metri-Pack 630.  

 

 

 

As you're already familiar with Metri-Pack connectors, you know that they are good quality and widely available.  Get the version for 3mm2 cable (pic shows a seal used with smaller wires).

 

This makes sense, the corrosion bit I have a voltmeter and a Mosfet and charging is good.

Thanks for the tip of which one to order too 👍I'll have to go for a look.

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