Plavna Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 When Im ridding it slow in 1st and 2nd gear at 3.000rpm, the bike is like lurching forward and backward. When Im above 3k as it should be, no problem. Is that normal for this model or I have chain/sprockets problem? I guess I don't lug the motor in the 1st gear. Or anything else. I feel the ridding it from the stops jerky untill I reach 3k+ rpm range. Not a big deal but a bit annoing. Like I feel something is going on in the rear, but when I get to the rpms its fine. Last time when I checked chain slack, it was good. Can it be the chain, carb sync? Im feeling like it is something in the chain. Will check for the kinked links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 16, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2022 These are relatively short stroke motors and unlike a car want some more revs to produce adequate torque. Short answer is that you should always be above 3,000 rpm while riding. Give it some revs, it doesn't mind a bit ( that doesn't mean to rev the piss out of it constantly tho). There's nothing wrong with it, keep it no less than about 3,500 to 4,000 and enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plavna Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 7 minutes ago, Cogswell said: These are relatively short stroke motors and unlike a car want some more revs to produce adequate torque. Short answer is that you should always be above 3,000 rpm while riding. Give it some revs, it doesn't mind a bit ( that doesn't mean to rev the piss out of it constantly tho). There's nothing wrong with it, keep it no less than about 3,500 to 4,000 and enjoy. Thanks. Im more annoyed that I need to slip a clutch on taking off/slow maneuvers. For example Yamaha TDM900 has the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plavna Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 Also I put my bike on the centerstand and check the chain movement. It slightly bounce when rolling, but I had same thing on my Kawasaki EX500. Don't know if thats normal. Sprockets are almost new, stock size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted May 16, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2022 18 minutes ago, Plavna said: Thanks. Im more annoyed that I need to slip a clutch on taking off/slow maneuvers. For example Yamaha TDM900 has the same problem. Something ain't right then. I can take off from a stop and perform parking lot maneuvers at idle speed (if I want to) with minimal clutch work. Then dial in smooth power as needed / wanted on all my VFRs, well below 3K. Like a properly performing V4 should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted May 16, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2022 I've found this to be combination of several things. 1. throttle-stop setting. Adjusting so throttle-plate doesn't close too much help prevent this jerking. 2. cush rubbers in wheel. They shrink over time and have gap. Reversing torque on sprocket causes large rotation back & forth. Inserting 2-3mm plastic shims into back side of each rubber so there's no movement really helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plavna Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 16 minutes ago, DannoXYZ said: I've found this to be combination of several things. 1. throttle-stop setting. Adjusting so throttle-plate doesn't close too much help prevent this jerking. 2. cush rubbers in wheel. They shrink over time and have gap. Reversing torque on sprocket causes large rotation back & forth. Inserting 2-3mm plastic shims into back side of each rubber so there's no movement really helps Ok I done the shimming on my previous bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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