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Has anyone done a SH847 voltage regulator on a 3rd gen.


jefferson

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30 minutes ago, Grum said:

Agree with you Cogs. I don't follow the strange logic about an auto resetting C/B.

In my 36 years in the aircraft industry I'd never seen or heard of such a thing and even domestic household switchboads are non auto reset breakers, for damm good reasons. I'd also question the reliability of these possibly Chinese made auto reset breakers.

Best thing for bike use is a well connected 30amp inline fuse

Something like this.

IMG_1340.PNG

 

One thing I might add about the midi fuse set up is that the ring terminals Jack has on his wiring for the breaker attach directly to a midi fuse holder so no cutting was required.  Just remove the nuts retaining the breaker, attach to the new fuse holder, place the fuse in and tighten the nuts.  No cutting, soldering, taping or shrink wrapping required.  Downside is that midi fuses are not likely to be found in parts stores, so if you'll be a long way from home best to carry a set of extras. 

 

 

 

 

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Your 1993 vfr750 electrical loads are fairly light. Can't see how the SH775 wouldn't do the job.

Your bike doesn't have fuel injection and looking at the wiring diagram your hi and lo beams are never all on at once, so the maximum wattage is 45w by 2= 90/12=7.5amps. Add to that your ignition system, instrument lights, brake and tail lights, battery charging, occasional use of cooling fan, blinkers and that's about it.

And if you're going to be operating your bike continuously above 11,000rpm it sure won't last long! Don't think you'll be doing that.

So if the 775 overcomes your fitting issues, why not run with it?

Cheers.:fing02:

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51 minutes ago, Grum said:

Your 1993 vfr750 electrical loads are fairly light. Can't see how the SH775 wouldn't do the job.

Your bike doesn't have fuel injection and looking at the wiring diagram your hi and lo beams are never all on at once, so the maximum wattage is 45w by 2= 90/12=7.5amps. Add to that your ignition system, instrument lights, brake and tail lights, battery charging, occasional use of cooling fan, blinkers and that's about it.

And if you're going to be operating your bike continuously above 11,000rpm it sure won't last long! Don't think you'll be doing that.

So if the 775 overcomes your fitting issues, why not run with it?

Cheers.:fing02:

I have the Polaris part number and Bombardier part numbers written down and will call around tomorrow if work doesn't call. I understand they have seen a pretty hefty price increase lately. I would like to know what Jack means when he says at high rpm they can be erratic.

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15 minutes ago, jefferson said:

I would like to know what Jack means when he says at high rpm they can be erratic.

Can only be a potential issue! with the switching speed of the SCR's. 

As you increase rpm the frequency of AC output from the Alternator also increases. The switching on and off of the SCR's need to cope with this.

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28 minutes ago, jefferson said:

I have the Polaris part number and Bombardier part numbers written down and will call around tomorrow if work doesn't call. I understand they have seen a pretty hefty price increase lately. I would like to know what Jack means when he says at high rpm they can be erratic.

 

He takes phone calls if available - might ring him and see what he says. 

 

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I'm on various bike forums, and once older R/R's are replaced by mofsets, shunt or series, tales of stator failures don't happen.  The Versys 650 guys are replacing with SH775, which is Polaris 4012941, rated at 35 amps.  There is a later one, Polaris 40016868 series type (number unknown) alledgedly rated at 50 amps, maybe slightly larger in physical size.  To me, the SH847 is overkill for a 350 watt stator.

On these lower output stators, an FH020 would do just fine.  Another reference point, my Versys 1000 (2016 - 29A stator) OEM R/R is an SH866 (~$220), rating unknown, same size as FH020 or SH775.  Redline is 10k rpm and no you don't live there.

These guys looking up Polaris numbers are just trying to get R/R's for $100, which isn't likely these days.... what you also need is the connectors and make yourself a harness...... Roadster's all in one solution, well let's just say save yourself the time and trouble, his harness is robust and made of quality wire...  The SH775 kit is $195.

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Jack said he doesn't have a source for the 775 anymore so I would have to source it from Polaris or Bombardier.

 

I did more research last night into the rpm/775 issue and found that it can either shut down and may work again once the rpm comes down and then there are reports of the unit not being able to control the voltage and people are seeing spikes of 16 to 17 volts which I think wouldn't be good for bulbs and electronics. A guy with a Triumph 675 had running issues after a high rpm run where his voltage spiked like that. Probably down to the fuel injection which I don't have, but there is always the eco to consider.

So now I can either take a chance on a 775 or mount the 847 somewhere under the fender. That 866 sounds interesting if it can take the rpm.

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And there's still no big deal with the tried and true FH020...... sometimes we overthink things.  I have no experience with the 775, but if it's starting to sound like a duck, it may be a duck.  If Jack can't get one, then might have been superceded for a reason.  Nobody with the 866 on a Versys 1k (2015-up) has had an issue that I know of.... it's $220+ OEM price, I don't know of a Polaris, et. al. equivalent....

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My reason for wanting the series regulator because the stator and oil run cooler as well as the unit itself.

 

I have an email sent to Shindengen to find out specs on the 866 as far as amps and rpm compatibility. Hoping to hear something soon.

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I've used SH775 on my Ninja 250 racebike with 14500-rpm redline for past 5-years without any problems ($50 from Polaris dealer). That's with it living near redline for 80% of time it's running too.

 

Not sure if not having EFI makes difference. Or using lithium battery which can take 10x higher charging-rate than lead-acid. Then I took that battery and put on my street bike and killed it within couple months by leaving headlights on while I went to check postbox and talk to neighbor. When I came back, headlights had drain battery dead, kaput! Tried to charge it up, no-go, it was terminal... Getting lithium batteries with BMS for overdischarge protection from now on.

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FYI, many battery companies are having trouble with BMS on some bikes. It is a solution without a problem, IMHO. 

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Yeah, it's a problem with old lead-acid batteries too when you leave lights on for too long. Definitely operator error.

 

Some BMS circuits won't re-connect battery after disconnect for overdischarge. You have to trigger them with jump-start from external charger. But that's issue with that specific BMS circuit from that vendor, not BMS in general which works great.

 

We have all sorts of technologies for rider aids like ABS and traction-control. Even headlight-relay that turns off headlights when cranking. On Ninja, headlight stays off when you turn key to ON, then only comes on when engine's running. So why not have additional BMS circuit to help with overdischarge and overcharging? Certainly helps save battery when you've got rogue RR that pumps out too much voltage. Then you've only have to replace one component rather than two (battery as well).

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3 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

We have all sorts of technologies for rider aids

"Whatchu talkin' bout Willis?" I despise rider aids. If one can't control their vehicle, they should take the bus... (tongue in cheek, of course!)

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I'm also in the no-nanny-aids-for-me camp, however I do like ABS.  That would likely come in to play in a panic situation where time to think / process what's happening is limited or non existent.  It only needs to save me once.  Self canceling turn signals,  eco/ sport mode, TPMS, even TC on a 100 hp bike and the rest I can do without.  

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I would love to have self cancelling signals again...on my friends' bikes. They appear to know only how to turn them on. lol

 

Unless I'm exploring a limit, which is getting less and less common, I think that being surprised is a good indicator of riding outside of one's limits. This isn't a negative, or a knock, as thi sis how we get fast, safer, better...but there are limits!

 

I took BikeSafe for fun last weekend (my second time in many years), as I ride 85% on track only and will eventually age out of that and be back on the (more dangrous and getting worse) public roads. It was interesting and I learned a few things I could transfer into my coaching talks at the track. 

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I would like to go with the 775 as it seems you guys are pointing me towards that, but then there is the but. Jack doesn't recommend them because of the rpm issue and people are using them without issue. The but, is the voltage spike that might occur and end up frying something. I would like to ride and not have to worry that something might happen if I get froggy. 

Shindengen was no help at all on the SH866 issue as I wasn't a manufacturer and I got a form email saying they can't help me with any specs. Real nice of them. How hard would it  be to give some specs to someone that wants to purchase one of their products.

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another idea is since SH847 runs so much cooler than stock, you can machine off some of areas fins that touch to get required clearance.

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2 hours ago, Hingley said:

here is how I mount my upgraded voltage regulator ON MY 1990 VFR750 

IMG_1656.JPG

Hey Hingley.

Am I seeing something strange here? Are you only using two of the three yellow alternator phase wires? Or was this just a snap of the uncompleted job?

Nice looking install anyhow.

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6 hours ago, jefferson said:

I would like to go with the 775 as it seems you guys are pointing me towards that, but then there is the but. Jack doesn't recommend them because of the rpm issue and people are using them without issue. The but, is the voltage spike that might occur and end up frying something. I would like to ride and not have to worry that something might happen if I get froggy. 

Shindengen was no help at all on the SH866 issue as I wasn't a manufacturer and I got a form email saying they can't help me with any specs. Real nice of them. How hard would it  be to give some specs to someone that wants to purchase one of their products.

You have to do what makes you sleep at night......  if you want to read a bunch about SH775's go to the Versys forum where a bunch of 650 guys have put the Polaris or other 775's in..... not seeing much on failures..........

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/

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Good observation, I had purchased some marine grade wire for the install and was using it to get a true measurement to the alternator

For the mounting plate I use 1/4" aluminum thinking it would help with dispersing any heat, in hindsight I wish I had of drilled the plate full of holes to make sure the heat had a place to go, but so far it is running as cool as you can get

IMG_1657.JPG

VFR750 STATOR PLUGS.JPG

IMG_1742-2.JPG

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I don't know which unit you mounted there, but I can tell it's not the 847. If I cut off one of the mounting tabs and remove some of the fin height in areas it may be doable. It would have been nice if Shindengen hadn't put the mounting tabs on the outside of the unit which just made it even wider.

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I used the FH020AA unit, I found it had all the quality and performance my 1990 VFR750 needs

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