Hemi Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 Title is convoluted. I've been on bikes for 25 years, HOWEVER, I've been dealing with a BMW and their lovely tele-lever front end for the past decade and a half. To the point. I recently purchased a very nice 5th gen that was taken care of and set up with everything pertinent to fix issues etc.... the problem is the previous owner was much heavier than me (I am 153 lbs with gear). The front end feels ultra stiff while cruising and is quite harsh. I've been pouring over the manuals and trying to RE-LEARN forks. A little advice and pictures would help me more I think. After my first 2 rides I feel as if the 5th gen and myself will become fast friends after some refinements. Thanks! (Pics are from the previous owner) P.S. I need luggage as well (HELP!!!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer raYzerman Posted March 6, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2022 The bike isn't going to feel like a telelever, so I imagine you'll have to adapt somewhat. First thing I'd do is get the weight off the front end and turn the handlebars side to side to see if there is any notchiness to the steering head bearings.... depending on mileage, they tend to develop a "flat spot" and tend to self-center.... the cure, tapered rollers. IMHO, the stock fork springs are 0.75 kg/mm spring rate and are OK for your weight. If someone put stiffer aftermarket springs (say 0.90-1.0) then that may be a tad stiff, but IMHO a stiffer front end isn't necessarily a bad thing. You can check sag, and that should tell you if you are where you should be. Depending on mileage, and if the previous owner changed the fork oil to a heavier oil, that would affect damping. The stock oil should be fine, but maybe it's time for a refresh anyway. If you do have the forks apart, and if aftermarket springs, sometimes the spring rate is etched into the end of the spring or on one of the coils. Check the rear end sag and set the preload accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted March 6, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2022 The stock VFR front end can feel jolting due to the choices made by Honda on springing (light) and damping Ihard). If you have the funds, a cartridge drop-in with correct spring weights from Daugherty Motorsports will transform comfort and feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted March 6, 2022 Author Share Posted March 6, 2022 Front forks and rear shock were rebuilt using Daugherty components head bearings were also replaced (oem) within the past 10k. It has 30k on it currently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer raYzerman Posted March 6, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2022 That may indicate stronger front springs, but now you have adjustable damping!! Sounds like you have to back off all the damping and go through a suspension setup process. Measure sag to see if the springs are "too much", but the springs may have a spring rate etched into them. On the rear shock, see if there's a stamped number on the spring, usually those can be decoded to see what spring rate you have back there....... might be a bit much also, but play with the damping as well to match the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted March 6, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2022 If Jamie has had his hands on the bike then he will probably have notes on the springs and damping choices, it would be worth getting in touch with him directly. He will have set the springs to suit the previous rider and as he was a bigger lad, then the spring weight and corresponding damper shim stacks may be too much for you. The shim stacks can easily be tailored to change the ride characteristics, but at least you know that you have got some quality damper valves already. As mentioned above, start by setting the sag on the front and rear ends using the preload adjusters (looking for 1/4 to 1/3 of total travel when you sit on the bike), and maybe back off the damping adjusters. When you bounce the bike, you want the rebound to be as quick as possible without over shooting and starting another bounce. If it is an OEM shock then there is a flat-head screw located at the base of the shock, screw in to increase rebound and screw out to make it lighter. If you have adjustable rebound in the front, that will be a small flat-head screw in the top of the fork cap, same principle for adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted March 6, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2022 The irony is your weight is really close to the standard rider weight for the stock springs, which is about 160 lbs. Stock damping is still horrible though, no matter what you weigh. That being said...while you have a choice, go Hyperpro progressive springs and never look back 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 Thanks for all the advice gents! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted March 7, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 7, 2022 It is customary to have 35mm front and 30mm rear of rider sag, and 20mm-24mm front and 8mm-10mm rear sag for bike only. A proper spring would present as . Tighter if you're a very agressive rider. You surely want to start with the right spring for your weight (including gear, passenger, etc. if that is how you normally ride.) Spring rate & damping aren't really related. Good guidelines can be found on the racetech site. Select spring rate search from the upper right and then fill in the data as you see fit. It is worth manipulating it to see what changes in spring rate happen in one direction or the other (more/less weight). "In the ballpark" will probably get it done for you. Even at race pace, the fast guys can ride around pretty crappy suspension not set for them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ughandi Posted March 7, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 7, 2022 20 hours ago, Terry said: . If it is an OEM shock then there is a flat-head screw located at the base of the shock, screw in to increase rebound and screw out to make it lighter. Learn something new every day!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted March 8, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2022 Of course, if it's an original OEM shock, the damping will all be gone by now anyway. They leak. Ciao, JZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted March 9, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2022 On 3/7/2022 at 6:27 AM, bmart said: Spring rate & damping aren't really related. Most certainly are!!! Stiffer springs require lower compression-damping and higher rebound-damping! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted March 9, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2022 In that you aren't going to fix a problem with one by changing the other... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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