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MBD Strikes Again!


Skids
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@Grum yes, both original HISS keys came with the purchase. It may be 21 yo but with <9k miles on the clock, most things are original, hence my efforts . :beer:

 

@bmart It is really easy to do on a 5th Gen. Did it originally on my '08 6th Gen so I thought as I have the airbox off, I might as well. The PAIR delete parts came from a UK seller on ebay, who also sold the voltmeter mount. Also came with nice allen bolts and a rubber bung to plug the hole now in the airbox. The PAIR system puts fresh air into the exhaust flow, I think, to help pass emissions regs. Not needed once on a production bike. Not sure it does that much to the bike, but it's one less thing in the way. Much easier to remove the 2 PAIR valve caps with the airbox off though.

 

There are some Youtube videos but they seem to be mainly 6th Gen and only involve disabling the PAIR, not removing it. 

 

Here's the HEL kit. Sadly no instructions or markings but it should be easy to tell which goes where. Currently struggling to get the pipes free that run across between the front calipers.

 

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8 hours ago, Bren said:

Does he post to Austria? How much for the kit? Linky, link?

 

bertye1958 | eBay Stores

 

If you just want the single-sided mount, then the 6th Gen one actually fits all HISS models, so the last 2 years of 5th Gen as well. This is the one I bought.

 

If it's the PAIR delete, then just scroll down his shop.

 

You'll have to ask him if he posts to Austria, but I'm not sure why he wouldn't.

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Thanks for that, it is for the pair delete. I have his advert saved and I messaged him some time ago but he doesn't post to Austria/EU for some reason 😭

Only other option is some dodgy fella from Greece for twice the price!

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16 hours ago, Bren said:

Thanks for that, it is for the pair delete. I have his advert saved and I messaged him some time ago but he doesn't post to Austria/EU for some reason 😭

Only other option is some dodgy fella from Greece for twice the price!

 

Could you get them sent to someone in the UK who could then forward them to you? Are there any customs/import reasons why that wouldn't work?

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Braided brake hoses fitted. A clutch line was included in the kit too, but that will have to wait for another time. Just the callipers to rebuild then fit and bleed.

 

 

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Great job Skids, lookin really nice. Glad you got the voltmeter wiring sorted to.

She'll be the envious desire of every 5gen aficionado.

Cheers:fing02:

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  • 1 month later...
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These little beauties arrived today 😎

20220518_181522.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
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Progress!

 

Wheels fitted with new tyres (Metzeller Roadtec 1), clutch bled, carbon-look Skidmarx hugger/chainguard fitted, front and rear plastics fitted. Checked out the new all round LED lights and they look pretty good. Have put the old incandescent bulbs back in the headlamp for the MoT. I'll put the LED bulbs in in slower time and check out what the spillage is like. Blinged her up a bit with carbon-look fuel filler cap and key cowl vinyl, fitted mirror extenders, oil & filter change done.

 

And.....she started first time! Thank you Mr Honda, although admittedly I didn't really mess with the injectors or the engine.

 

I'll book an MoT as soon as the new number plate arrives. It's the same number, just on a plain plate. Then when she's fully legal, there's only a coolant change, balance the SVs and refit the lower plastics. I may do those jobs before the MoT, depends on work.

 

Planned future work is a replacement can. Not many to choose from new but I like the look of the GPR cans and they do a hi-level version of this. I plan to get a new seat from Top Sellerie, a Mosfet R/R and new levers too. 

 

Does anyone know of any crash bungs that don't require drilling of the plastics?

 

Cheers. :beer:

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On 5/18/2022 at 1:19 PM, Skids said:

These little beauties arrived today 😎

20220518_181522.jpg

I have also ordered fasteners from ProBolt time to time, and I just marvel at how excellent the parts are,  like fine jewelry.....when the application demands it, definitely a goto vendor.

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54 minutes ago, mello dude said:

I have also ordered fasteners from ProBolt time to time, and I just marvel at how excellent the parts are,  like fine jewelry.....when the application demands it, definitely a goto vendor.

Yes, not cheap, but then quality never is. 

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I'm cheap. 

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On 7/25/2022 at 4:53 AM, Yokel said:

Looking lovely, Skids!  Nice work. 

Thanks but it's mostly maintenance and fitting a bit of bling. There are plenty of proper spanner-monkeys on here who can work miracles and don't let anything mechanical stand in their way. I'm definitely not one of those, I know my limitations. And whilst I would love to have a VFR like, say Mohawk's, that's not what this project is about. It's about maintaining a very clean, low mileage example of one of the best that Mr Honda can produce and that I have the skills to look after.

 

Plus a bit of bling.  :goofy:

 

A perfect end for me would be to pass it on in as good condition as it is now to my son when I can no longer ride.

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MoT test booked for Friday morning. 

 

Here she is. Lower fairings will go back on after MoT when I've changed the coolant; I don't want to disturb it all and then find I miss the MoT cos I haven't had the time to fix it. I'll give her a good check over tomorrow, ensure all bolts and nuts done up tight and all the electrics work. 

 

Fingers crossed. 

 

 

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And she passed with no advisories. :wheel:

 

Just coolant flush and refill and the SVs to do now, then refit the side panels.

 

I'll post pics when this is all done.

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SV's done, once I'd located the Carbtune - haven't needed it for a few years. Easier than I remember as well.

 

I forgot to mention the beautiful intake roar as I opened her up on the way home from the testers, thanks to removing the snorkel. I deliberately left my earplugs out to listen for it. ☺️

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3 hours ago, Skids said:

SV's done, once I'd located the Carbtune - haven't needed it for a few years. Easier than I remember as well.

 

I forgot to mention the beautiful intake roar as I opened her up on the way home from the testers, thanks to removing the snorkel. I deliberately left my earplugs out to listen for it. ☺️

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Hi Skids.

With a 5gen you need to increase 3 and 4 not decrease it, apparently the manual is incorrect.

Cylinder 3 adjust to 20mm more vacuum than 1.

Cylinder 4 adjust to 10mm more than 1.

Cylinder 2 to match 1.

 

Carbtune each major graduation = 20mmHg. Each minor graduation = 5mmHg.

 

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Hi Skids. Have a read of this. I can't remember who the poster was or find the post it was in, but I copied the text as reference some time ago. Many others have set their 5gens to this and it definitely works.

 

5th Gen Starter Valve Synch.

I know, its a bit strange to find incorrect procedure in workshop manual 22 years later. But no one did it, and I want to share my story now.
According to 5th gen manual, 3rd cylinder vacuum pressure should be dropped to 20mm compare to 1st. Most of us read it as dropped DOWN, and translated manuals have it mentioned as LESS vacuum for 3rd and 4th.
When I got my bike, it had flat sync for all cylinders. I did full maintenance some time later, through workshop manual, include starter valves synchronization. In very first day after, I noticed some surging when low throttle, it was a bit twitchy during city riding. Very uncomfortable to keep some speed at low throttle opening. Most of internet discussions about nervous VFR had tips about PAIR blocking and other redneck mods. Some of them suggested to always keep revs over 4k, because VFR doesn't love low revs... That's true, but I had very smooth bike before maintenance, even on very low RPM.

First - I adjusted flat sync back. It helped me a lot, motorcycle became very friendly again. Then I did it opposite to manual. It means 3rd cylinder adjusted to 20mm MORE vacuum than 1st, and 4th 10mm more than 1st. And the bike is smooth as butter. Even better than flat, and MUCH smoother than official way.

From here I want to explain why it helped. In service manual for 5th gen, they showed fuel injection diagrams. It has independent maps for each cylinder. On these graphs you can see - 3rd cylinder get lowest fuel portion, 4th a bit more, and 1+2 even more. I checked it with injector opening time frames. Diagrams are true, 3rd cylinder has less fuel than 1st on idle. For same mix ratio, fuel/air, we should feed less air into 3rd cylinder. It means we need close starter valve a bit, as result we will have MORE vacuum.
 

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Thanks @Grum and @Tirso, I recall reading that thread when it was posted but figured it was wrong.

 

I shall re-adjust in the 'opposite' sense.

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1 hour ago, Skids said:

Thanks @Grum and @Tirso, I recall reading that thread when it was posted but figured it was wrong.

 

I shall re-adjust in the 'opposite' sense.

 

This is as close as I could get them.

#1 215mm

#2 210mm

#3 235mm

#4 225mm

 

But I also have another picture/reading and they're

#1 190mm

#2 195mm

#3 210mm

#4 200mm

 

They're all within the +/- 5 so I guess they're fine?

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.7a32702925cc81fac6f04d675a1bc679.png

 

 

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Flushed and refilled coolant and which idiot forgot to buy in replacement washers for the 2 drain holes. 🤦‍♂️

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1 hour ago, Skids said:

Flushed and refilled coolant and which idiot forgot to buy in replacement washers for the 2 drain holes. 🤦‍♂️

Don't stress. I've never replaced the drain hole bolt washers. I add a little non hardening thread sealer to the threads of the drain bolt with the old washer, have never had a leak. Provided the copper washers are not visibly damaged.

 

So if you have any form of non hardening heat resistant thread sealer undo the bolt not fully,  just to expose some of the threads, apply to exposed threads then re tighten the bolt.

Best to do this when the cooling system is not pressurised! Below is the stuff I've used.

 

 

 

Boston_sealant.jpeg

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