Jump to content

Linkpipe stuck on collector: tips to get loose?


ElPolloDiablo

Recommended Posts

Dear All,

 

I would like to replace my Nikko high-mount muffler with another sports muffler that I ran into. I'm not terribly clumsy, but I can't seem to get the linkpipe off the collector. Sprayed several times with IMAL, tapped it with a screwdriver and hammer, but alas. He seems to be coming a little, but not enough. And yes, the screw is loose.

 

Any other tips before the whole neighborhood ends up in a madhouse because of me banging the hammer? Thanks!

IMG_20220120_105946.jpg

IMG_20220120_105953.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Dead blow hammers are a lot quieter and don't damage soft surfaces as much.  They are good for taking out frustrations without annoying the neighbors.  😉

Let the penetrant work a few days and just keep working it.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I use a rubber strap (oil) wrench on mine when it gets stubborn. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

To bmart's point, I think he's implying that you use the strap wrench to rotate the pipe to break the corrosion.  Great idea.  You don't want to bang on it too much and put dents in it  - that will only make it worse.  You could also break the clamp tabs off, but you probably won't be re-using it anyway.   On re-assembly with your new pipe, some copper or better yet nickel anti-seize can go a long way towards preventing the issue in the future.  I remove mine once a season to prevent the pieces from becoming too friendly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Here's how to spread that joint slightly:

1. place coin/washer in slot between the clamp-ears

 

2. insert bolt from threaded side

 

3. screw in bolt so it pushes on coin/washer

 

4. add 2-3 turns more and it'll spread out joint (reverse of clamping down).

 

5. spray PB-blaster into gap created by expanding, let sit overnight

 

6. twist and pull and it should come off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
You'll find the job is easier if you first heat up the engine to
operating temp and then tackle the joint... heat will expand
the grip on the clamp... the hotter the better...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.