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Last ride of the season (probably).


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Had to make sure I got out one more time this season so went for a 50 mile ride in the rolling countryside.  I was going to stop at a scenic location to take a picture while out, but I didn't want to stop riding so here is one from when I got back 🙂.  Time to drain float bowls and put it in a row along side the other bikes in the garage, cover with a sheet and put in rotation for the 2 trickle chargers I use (for 5 bikes now).

 

Plans for the winter are basically going through the suspension, front and rear.  I have a brand new, 0 miles 2017 ZX14R rear shock I may try and fit plus a lot of cleaning and inspection of linkages.  Minimum of a fork fluid change and the installation of a set of external preload adjusters in the front.  Hmmmm, probably headset bearings too while I'm thinking about it.  Oh and toying with the idea of a rear tire hugger, either that or a mud flap 😉.

 

My ZRX1100 might be moving on to someone else next year.  It's too nice a bike not to be ridden.  And I'm not riding it, especially now that I have another red Honda V4.

 

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Looks beautiful! Ethanol free will last for years without issue and keep the carb seals from drying/cracking much better than additives. 

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The only bikes I can keep ethanol free are my vintage bikes that I ride on short trips.  I keep a 35 gallon fuel caddy in my outer shop with ethanol free, lead substitute and a little stabilizer.  Other than that it is impossible to go for a real ride and keep my systems completely ethanol free.  But it sure is nice having that pump available at home.  The lawn mower loves it too.

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I have good luck using Star Tron to stabilize ethanol fuels, I use it 100% of the time in my motorcycles, when riding and when storing.

 

I still sometimes drain carb float bowls to keep pilot jets from possibly getting clogged.

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8 minutes ago, mtnpat said:

I have good luck using Star Tron to stabilize ethanol fuels, I use it 100% of the time in my motorcycles, when riding and when storing.

 

I still sometimes drain carb float bowls to keep pilot jets from possibly getting clogged.

 

Thanks.  I just added some to my cart, I'll give it whirl.  Good reviews.

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2 hours ago, mtnpat said:

I have good luck using Star Tron to stabilize ethanol fuels, I use it 100% of the time in my motorcycles, when riding and when storing.

 

I still sometimes drain carb float bowls to keep pilot jets from possibly getting clogged.

 

Do some research frst. Tests I've seen say it actually holds water and corrodes some metals. I threw my gallon out. It was causing many problems in the cars and bikes. Much easier to just deal with Ethanol free. The CB-1 is very finicky, and even it never skips a beat after many months without starting. 

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On 11/19/2021 at 4:33 PM, bmart said:

 

Do some research frst. Tests I've seen say it actually holds water and corrodes some metals. I threw my gallon out. It was causing many problems in the cars and bikes. Much easier to just deal with Ethanol free. The CB-1 is very finicky, and even it never skips a beat after many months without starting. 

I did some research several years back and it was all favorable on this product, switched from Stabil (which I also think is decent) to Star Tron and have done my own research since by using the product on many motorcycles.  It’s designed to help stop phase separation in ethanol laced fuels and from what I have seen it does that. I know what bad stale ethanol fuel looks like, saw that in a KTM carb, it’s quite apparent. Haven’t had any problems over the years with stabilized ethanol fuels with regard to hoses and rubber parts either.

 

I even did my own study a few years back on fuel stability with ethanol pump gas and a few glass jars….I had a control sample and then used different fuel stabilizers and let them sit for over a year and then observed the results. 
 

if you still have links to the negative tests you saw (I’m assuming they were online) I would be interested in seeing them, I’d bet others would too. 

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I looked and couldn't find it. I used StarTron for years. When I stopped and moved to ethanol free 87, all of my problems stopped. This is across 3 cars and three bikes. It can't be a coincidence. 🙂

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16 minutes ago, bmart said:

I looked and couldn't find it. I used StarTron for years. When I stopped and moved to ethanol free 87, all of my problems stopped. This is across 3 cars and three bikes. It can't be a coincidence. 🙂

That’s cool, no argument here against ethanol free gas. thanks for the comments. 

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This guy is pretty funny, and here is one of the comparisons. 

 

 

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Just had the last ride of the year on the Vfr, frost is forecast here soon so they'll be salting the roads from now on,

probably be next May before she's back on the road again,🙁  filled the tank to the brim and I'll give her a good deep clean now as she's tucked up for the Winter, I'll trickle charge her every so often, not sure if it's a good idea to start her or not to get her up to temp every month or 6 weeks?

I'll change the oil and filter next Spring.

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Starting periodically is personal preference. When I lived in New England I just left them alone until spring. It can move some oil around, but it can also create contaminants that would normally be sent out the exhaust under normal riding and wear the battery unnecessarily. 

 

I'm in NC now...so I just ride them "off season!" May take a spin today or Thursday on the KLX or new to me yellow VFR. 

 

Whatever you decide, I hope that you fill the gap with single track related things like watching racing, or making vroom vroom noises at your local dealer. 

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On 11/21/2021 at 10:53 AM, VFRMAN said:

Just had the last ride of the year on the Vfr, frost is forecast here soon so they'll be salting the roads from now on,

probably be next May before she's back on the road again,🙁  filled the tank to the brim and I'll give her a good deep clean now as she's tucked up for the Winter, I'll trickle charge her every so often, not sure if it's a good idea to start her or not to get her up to temp every month or 6 weeks?

I'll change the oil and filter next Spring.

It's actually better to change the oil before it sits all winter with the contaminants and acids that can mix with moisture and do bad things. If you are going to do it, do it now rather than in the spring.

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59 minutes ago, jefferson said:

It's actually better to change the oil before it sits all winter with the contaminants and acids that can mix with moisture and do bad things. If you are going to do it, do it now rather than in the spring.

 

 

that's right ! acid in old oil can eat bearings. i've seen it in person.

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While it was freezing last night, tarmac temps are still well over 5C°....

 

So ride to work!

 

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My riding season ended a few weeks ago, a little earlier than hoped for, unfortunately.  There is a rattle in my BMW's front end, and it took me a few tries before I diagnosed it as bad front wheel bearings (probably).  This should be covered under warranty, so I have an appointment at the local dealer shop in a couple weeks.

 

Around the same time I figured out the problem the weather got cold and wet.  Then a couple weeks ago when the weather was very nice for November, I had a medical issue that kept me off the bike, and now the weather has turned very cold again.  So I guess it's just as well the bike is out of commission for now, otherwise I'd be tempted to keep riding it.

 

I'm sad my season is over but I'm not too disappointed.  It was a good year.  I got one decent trip in this year, one epic overnighter, and a several long days, including a few SE Ohio rides.

 

As for winterizing the bike, I used to do spring oil changes on the VFR instead of end-of-season.  I never noticed any ill effects, but going forward I'm changing the oil and filter as part of my winterization routine before I store my bike in the garage.

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11 hours ago, squirrelman said:

that's right ! acid in old oil can eat bearings. i've seen it in person.

I'd like to hear some details. I've had no issues with old oil...including in my 21 year old VFR. 

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2 hours ago, bmart said:

I'd like to hear some details. I've had no issues with old oil...including in my 21 year old VFR. 

Some context...long before viscosity break down, combustion blow by and other things will make the oil acidic.  There are additives in the oil for this but they only last so long.  This is why it's a good idea to change oil, the rule of thumb is a thousand miles per quarter in the sump.

 

All things being equal though, we are talking about small amounts of wear and acid damage over time.  If you change oil regularly it's fine.  The average exposure or damage rate  of a bike that sits for a long time with 1-2k miles on the oil vs. one that is ridden a lot, with both bikes getting changes at 3-4k is probably pretty close when you think about it.

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I've sent mine off for analysis in each vehicle and they always come back as the oil being in fine shape, despite the mileage or downtime...so I was curious. 

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22 hours ago, jefferson said:

It's actually better to change the oil before it sits all winter with the contaminants and acids that can mix with moisture and do bad things. If you are going to do it, do it now rather than in the spring.

So then would you change it again in the Spring? I'd rather start the season on fresh oil.

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zzzzz

Still looking for that first "my engine blew up because of an oil change error" thread. Geez, just go out and ride.

😎

 

 

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47 minutes ago, St. Stephen said:

zzzzz

Still looking for that first "my engine blew up because of an oil change error" thread. Geez, just go out and ride.

😎

 

 

I have a family member who for a while thought oil changes were dealership scams... 👀

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...everything ends up at an oil thread, you just have to be patient!

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