Guest talus Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 I put this in Electrics because I think a voltmeter should be a mandatory VFR electrical item - for your sanity!. For about the cost of 2 tanks of gas your can do it too! Here is my Lascar Voltmeter install. Just thought I would show everyone since I had been holding off on this *ESSENTIAL* VFR farkel trying to settle on a location for it. Not having a voltmeter bit me yesterday when my battery packed it in while trying to get to work! This little sucker would have told me exactly what was going on. Drivers View I was going to drill a hole to mount the voltmeter but I really like the factory look of my bike and I don't like messing it up permanently. Don't get me wrong, I'll drill for frame sliders to protect $1000 worth of plastic but I don't like slapping stuff all over. That said I don't like "Mickey-Mouse" fixes or repairs either so I was having trouble figuring out how I was going to handle this mandatory little item. The permanent mounting locations would have been on the dash or on the fairing. The dash option seemed way too stick-on "Canadian Tire" (Canadians will understand this). I almost stuck it on the flat upper of the fairing but I have had those fairing on and off so many #$%& times that it would have been pain to disconnect the wiring each time the plastic was flying. So I came up with the following solution. It is secure, removable, and best of all puts the voltmeter in a nice central, fairly visible, location. You will need: 3 inches of 3/4" steel strapping (about $4 at the hardware store - in the plumbing section), and a Lascar 1200 Voltmeter (I got mine from Allied Electronics for $30 USD). Simply mount the meter to the strapping using one of the handy, ready drilled, holes then pull one tank bolt and put it through the other end of the strapping. Tighten the tank bolt back up and bend the strapping with the meter into place. Route your wires - my positive wire goes to my R/R wire mod and I put an open ring terminal on the ground and slipped it under the R/R bolt. The tank bolt or the metal strapping would also work as a ground. I put a little shrink tubing over the wires to protect them and make them look a little more factory and routed them nicely alongside the others. DONE! The only drawback of this location is that it is not protect from rain (like it would be if it was on the dash). The instructions say its "splashproof" and I don't think it would get wet while riding but it will if your bike is sitting out in the rain. Side View Instruction Pic This may be a little "Mickey-Mouse" for some and I'm sure I could come up with something better than the strapping but you have to get down and look hard to see it. If I want under the tank I simply bend it out of the way and get to work. You could probably flex the strapping back and forth a couple dozen times before your broke it - big deal it's about 2 cents worth of strapping. The steel will likely rust so you could put something on it or use different strapping - the back of the box says it comes in Galvanized, Copper and Nylon Coated - take your pick. Super cheap mounting stuff - next best thing to binder twine and bailing wire! On the techy side this meter has a VERY fast refresh rate. The specs say 3 samples per second - so it is constantly flickering away (it's almost a bit too distracting to be on the dash I think). My setup is hot-wired so I can read it at any time - it draws 3mA. BTW - It's a nice looking meter that matches the aluminum of the bike quite well. Too bad Honda didn't build a voltmeter into the left or right gauge panels. Then again maybe it's just as well, it probably would have shorted out, taken out the whole dash, and started a fire! :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Awesome!! SO, where would a good accessible switched source of power to tap into be?? Rather not have it hot wired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I've had my LCD voltmeter direct wored to the battery for 10 years with no problems. The voltage drain is so tiny, it's a non-issue. The voltmeter I have is totally waterproof, but the company is out of business, so I would probably recommend this one: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692098 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted June 6, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 6, 2011 Awesome!! SO, where would a good accessible switched source of power to tap into be?? Rather not have it hot wired. a good powered source is brake light switch. I have fitted that over a relay. the image below covers all the accessories if you need specific to only connecting a volt meter let me know. VFR800 Aux Fuse Box.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vanion2 Posted June 6, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 6, 2011 I've had my LCD voltmeter direct wored to the battery for 10 years with no problems. The voltage drain is so tiny, it's a non-issue. The voltmeter I have is totally waterproof, but the company is out of business, so I would probably recommend this one: http://www.advrider....ad.php?t=692098 I just ordered one of those. Thanks for posting it. And I may even use the "Talus" install method pending how I set everything up for my road trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 6, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 6, 2011 I've had my LCD voltmeter direct wored to the battery for 10 years with no problems. The voltage drain is so tiny, it's a non-issue. The voltmeter I have is totally waterproof, but the company is out of business, so I would probably recommend this one: http://www.advrider....ad.php?t=692098 I just ordered one of those. Thanks for posting it. And I may even use the "Talus" install method pending how I set everything up for my road trip. Ha! I just asked Earthshake what brand meter he had on his old 5th gen, and this is what he said! Plus I wanted to stick it on my RC51 which has much less surface area available than my other bikes. This would work really well, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthshake Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I know a lot of folks don't want to drill into the panel, but this was a clean installation and looks good to me. I mounted it in the left panel on the 5th gen so it is somewhat shielded when parked on the sidestand. It has earned its keep and should be considered a "must have" accessory. That's a heated grip switch just below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Awesome!! SO, where would a good accessible switched source of power to tap into be?? Rather not have it hot wired. a good powered source is brake light switch. I have fitted that over a relay. the image below covers all the accessories if you need specific to only connecting a volt meter let me know. VFR800 Aux Fuse Box.jpg Wicked schematic!! Jeez I'm a dork... I completely forgot I used to have an accessories fuse panel installed with the VFRness... I currently am not running the VFRness, won't go into details as to why... but I guess I should get around to reinstalling it. I wasn't sure if it was convenient to run a voltmeter from the fuse block... thought maybe it wouldn't give as exact a reading and that a more direct route would be better... but if you see no reason why... neither do I!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I've had my LCD voltmeter direct wored to the battery for 10 years with no problems. The voltage drain is so tiny, it's a non-issue. The voltmeter I have is totally waterproof, but the company is out of business, so I would probably recommend this one: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692098 So this one has 3 wires... Three wire connection: Red power, Blue voltage signal, Black ground How does that affect install?? or do I just connect the red and blue ones into one?? Seeing as I would be using the fuse block... right?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted June 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 9, 2011 Awesome!! SO, where would a good accessible switched source of power to tap into be?? Rather not have it hot wired. a good powered source is brake light switch. I have fitted that over a relay. the image below covers all the accessories if you need specific to only connecting a volt meter let me know. VFR800 Aux Fuse Box.jpg thought maybe it wouldn't give as exact a reading and that a more direct route would be better... but if you see no reason why... neither do I!! keep in mind , it is powered directly from the battery via the relay so not much drop in the voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 11, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2011 I ordered one on Thursday afternoon, it was here waiting for me Saturday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 I've had my LCD voltmeter direct wored to the battery for 10 years with no problems. The voltage drain is so tiny, it's a non-issue. The voltmeter I have is totally waterproof, but the company is out of business, so I would probably recommend this one: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692098 So this one has 3 wires... Three wire connection: Red power, Blue voltage signal, Black ground How does that affect install?? or do I just connect the red and blue ones into one?? Seeing as I would be using the fuse block... right?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 12, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2011 Yeah if you read down further in that thread you linked, most are wiring the red and blue together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted July 4, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted July 4, 2011 Just finished up installing one onto my RC51. Not much surface area for a meter, so I liked the Lascar and the bracket idea. Had this one laying around IMG 0474 IMG 0475 IMG 0485 IMG 0482 Thanks again to Mike (hondalover) for donating his old tag light plug and wires. I soldered in some wires to joint the two, covered it in the sheathing from the wires on the stator I just replaced, and tucked it all away. Looks like it's supposed to be there! I used to help out in a motorcycle shop, and the ex racer/ current A&P mechanic that used to work on engines there would always bitch about all the "hack" work that had been previously done to whatever bike he was working on continues to inspire me to make my work look at least halfway decent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer skymon Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 Awesome!! SO, where would a good accessible switched source of power to tap into be?? Rather not have it hot wired. a good powered source is brake light switch. I have fitted that over a relay. the image below covers all the accessories if you need specific to only connecting a volt meter let me know. VFR800 Aux Fuse Box.jpg If its not too much trouble AnikMankar, if you have a schematic for just the voltmeter, it would be much appreciated. i.e. dumb it down a little for me please... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 what type of Voltmeter do you have or intend to buy ? 2 wire or 3 wire ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer skymon Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 what type of Voltmeter do you have or intend to buy ? 2 wire or 3 wire ? Lascar EMV 1200 2-wire wow. that was fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 2 wire - is a little complicated. two options 1) Direct from power source. So tap into any of the "GREEN" wires (powered wire - comes on when you switch the bike) on the bike. I had taped into the Flasher green wire(or into the brake light green wire). so the RED from the voltmeter will go to the "GREEN" . "BLACK" from the Voltmeter to ground (to body of the bike). The only problem is that there will be a voltage difference as this power is routed thru. So you should get a Direct source (BATTERY). That is why the 3 wire ones are good. 2) the other option is using a cutout/relay. like i have in the diagram above. Will draw one tomorrow and send across hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer skymon Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 2 wire - is a little complicated. two options 1) Direct from power source. So tap into any of the "GREEN" wires (powered wire - comes on when you switch the bike) on the bike. I had taped into the Flasher green wire(or into the brake light green wire). so the RED from the voltmeter will go to the "GREEN" . "BLACK" from the Voltmeter to ground (to body of the bike). The only problem is that there will be a voltage difference as this power is routed thru. So you should get a Direct source (BATTERY). That is why the 3 wire ones are good. 2) the other option is using a cutout/relay. like i have in the diagram above. Will draw one tomorrow and send across hope this helps Yes, it does. Thank you. I'll probably go relay so anything in reference to that would be great. I want to get a true direct battery voltage reading. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 see attached I have put this one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer skymon Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 Got it. Thanks a lot AM. Can you get a little relay like that at any corner auto parts store? (I realize Mumbai corner auto parts stores might not carry exactly the same stuff as southern california corner auto parts stores, but I just mean "are they common?") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Oh6PearlVFR Posted January 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 1, 2012 Nice installs and good looking addition. I added mine to the underside of the seat. Makes it a pain in the ass to see when you are riding but I really only use it during start up or storage, I ordered it off of Ebay - Joe-Florida for $12 and wired positive to the vfrness accessory fuse box, negative to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted January 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2012 I did a simular install using the tank hold downs, although it was a little tricky. I made a couple brackets with 1 inch aluminum stock. On one bracket I drilled matching holes that line up with the tank mount, and then two 1/4' holes outside of that. Then on the other piece of stock I drilled the 5 mm hole for the meter in the center, and then two 1/4" holes that line up with the ones from the bracket on the bottom. Then used a couple 1/2" tall spacers I got from Lowes, and used 1 inch, 1/4-20 bolts going up from the bottom bracket and the cute acorn nuts to bolt it up. Looks pretty clean, all though I'm gonna powder coat it at some point. Linking threads together ---- http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/69420-lascar-voltmeter-install-on-a-5th-gen/page__fromsearch__1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted January 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2012 Wiring wise, I started with a relay switched off/on from power from the taillight but ended up ditching it. Just went with a basic rocker under the seat. Now I can check the battery before I click on the key and power to the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted January 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2012 Got it. Thanks a lot AM. Can you get a little relay like that at any corner auto parts store? (I realize Mumbai corner auto parts stores might not carry exactly the same stuff as southern california corner auto parts stores, but I just mean "are they common?") any relay should do - these are international standard RELAYs. The numbers are standard too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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