Stucky Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 Riding to and from work on Friday my bike randomly died several times. Luckily I was always in a position where I was able to coast until I could get it started back up. After the first occurrence I could definitely smell something roasting, so I knew it must be electrical. Today I looked into it and found the main fuse b that is inbetween the R/R and the battery had totally melted down. This is an easy fix, just replace the fuse holder and 30A fuse. Issue is I'm not sure why it melted down in the first place. I doubt it was corrosion, as I went through the entire electrical system March 2015. I cleaned all connectors and replaced the R/R and stator with Rick's Motorsports units. Also, roughly four months ago my main battery failed (after ~1.5 yrs) so I replaced that with a Shorai lithium ion. Basically I have all top notch, new-ish electrical components. Why did the fuse have a melt down in the first place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted July 24, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2016 That's not an OEM fuse holder. Does it have the correct size wire? Could have had a loose connection inside? A loose connection could cause it to arc and overheat/melt. You'll have to replace the fuse holder and then do the usual tests. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted July 24, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2016 JZH is right on a couple of counts. It is not a OEM fuse holder, somebody fuzed the positive feed from the R/R to the positive terminal on the battery. Good start on addressing the VFR's electrical issues. I had done the same thing on my 4th get AND had the same result with that size fuze holder. I replaced it with a MAXI-fuse holder-still 20 amp but it's much bigger to be able to handle the current. No problems in years. I also ran an extra 8 gauge wire from the negative terminal to the frame for another ground. I still have my computer fan on my old GSXR 750 R/R-I'll replace it with one of the newfangled MOSFET ones if I ever have any problems with my current set up. (no pun intended). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted July 24, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2016 This issue is -- along with high quality components to fix the R/R, stator and harness work, you have to use a fuseholder that has major cojones that will take the 30 amp current the the system will have. Fuse holders are rated just like fuses, so. You need something that has 10 gauge wiring minimum, ( 8 guage prefered) and a heathy fuse body. (not rubber like you found out) Buy something that is rated much higher that and you will be fine. Like rangemaster pointed out the Maxifuse is a good one rated at 60 amps or the Metripack 630 fuse holder rated at 47 amps. Examples https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0969pt-Maxi-Fuse-Holder/dp/B00030CPOQ Replace with either and shitcan that POS that was used for a fuseholder in the first place. And as JZH mentioned, its probably a good idea to do the drill as a precaution after that anyhoo.... I noticed you still have the OEM stator connector, you may as well solder the wires together or replace with the metripack 630 connector while you're working on it too..... Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stucky Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 More to get working on. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.