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The Official Oil Thread


HispanicSlammer

What Kind Of Oil Do You Use?  

1,244 members have voted

  1. 1. Oil Type?

    • Synthetic
      835
    • Dino/Organic
      238
    • Blend
      173
  2. 2. Motorcycle or Generic oil?

    • Motorcycle Specific
      735
    • Major Brands
      460
    • Generic Automotive
      84
  3. 3. Which Brand?

    • Honda Branded
      188
    • Mobile One
      325
    • AMSOil
      109
    • Castrol
      114
    • Penzoil
      11
    • Lucus
      3
    • Havoline
      1
    • Quaker State
      4
    • Motul
      107
    • Valvoline
      33
    • Golden Spectro
      16
    • Rotella
      209
    • Other
      126


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  • Member Contributer

I might have missed it so I'll ask. I bought the bike used with 1,000 miles and I don't know if the first oil change has been performed so needless to say I'm going to change the oil and I was wondering if I can start with synthetic oil or not?

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  • Member Contributer

Well... I run the good old DINO Honda oil and I change it and the filter everytime I wear out a set of tires. 17k and on my fifth set of tires... Good thing I have a motorcycle so I can save all that money on gas... :rolleyes:

Kevin

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I might have missed it so I'll ask. I bought the bike used with 1,000 miles and I don't know if the first oil change has been performed so needless to say I'm going to change the oil and I was wondering if I can start with synthetic oil or not?

The first oil change my bike got I put in synthetic.. Made the Vtec transition smoother actually.. I dont think it will harm it..

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  • Member Contributer
I might have missed it so I'll ask. I bought the bike used with 1,000 miles and I don't know if the first oil change has been performed so needless to say I'm going to change the oil and I was wondering if I can start with synthetic oil or not?

The first oil change my bike got I put in synthetic.. Made the Vtec transition smoother actually.. I dont think it will harm it..

:rolleyes: The tolerances within a VFR engine are so exact that you can go straight to synth now. The old advice about sticking with dyno oil until the motor is broken in isn't bad, but it's a lot less necessary now that we have diamond plateau-honed cylinder walls and mirror-polished cam and crank journals straight out of the box. There just isn't a whole lot of rough metal inside the case that needs to be abraded away during break-in on a new Honda.

Just a reminder: break it in the Motoman way. Problem is, you have to apply this method within the first 20 miles!

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Guest 1tomcat

Mobil 1 4t 10w40 every 3000. Aftermarket oil filter from cross reference list. I change my oil sooner if Im heading out on a long trip to avoid going over 3000 mi.

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Guest klinquist
(Was using Rotella T in my race bike and had two bearings go tits-up. It was a SV650 motor, rear cylinder, connecting rod bearing and journal scorched. Also had to replace a Kawi 636 shifting drum after the use of Rotella T on the race track.)

Was this the synth or non-synth?

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Surprised not to see redline on there?! I've used it in my bikes for several years and love it. I actually used to put my used redline in the truck after I did an oil change in the bike!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

I switched back to Mobil 1 using there old 15w50 racing syn, it has the checked flags on the front and think it's the only one that states "Racing Approved" on the container. :dry:

The VFR and Track bike are both happily using the 15w-50 and the Diesel is still on the Rotella. :cool:

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Mobil one, 4T 15-50 specifically for Triumph motorcycles in my 95 "tigger" with 70K on the clock. Purrrs like a kitten.

HP4 10-40 syn/blend "without" moly for the 03 VFRwith 24K. Honda does offer a full synthetic but not sure if it contains moly which is a no no according to the owners manual. Ah, what do they know?

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  • Member Contributer
I switched back to Mobil 1 using there old 15w50 racing syn, it has the checked flags on the front and think it's the only one that states "Racing Approved" on the container. :blush:

The VFR and Track bike are both happily using the 15w-50 and the Diesel is still on the Rotella. :biggrin:

It was quiet for a year.............you must be bored. :laugh:

I do love the Rotella for my F-350 Diesels. :blush:

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Member Contributer

So I am not confused. Some of you folks are using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic with the flags and "Race Proven" written on the bottle 15w50 that you can get at Wally World for about $22 per Gallon? And no where on the gallon jug it says Motorcycle specific or good for Wet clutches?

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  • Member Contributer
So I am not confused. Some of you folks are using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic with the flags and "Race Proven" written on the bottle 15w50 that you can get at Wally World for about $22 per Gallon? And no where on the gallon jug it says Motorcycle specific or good for Wet clutches?

Read up on oil from BR's link from page 1.

I also like the info on oil found here, they also have a great oil filter cross reference listed to and I now use only WalMart's SuperTech ST 7317 filters as they have superior filtering then most at the cheapest price(made by Champion)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Then BLS also made a post on page 1 regarding issues with the wet clutch. All your questions are answered in this very thread. wink.gif

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  • Member Contributer
So I am not confused. Some of you folks are using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic with the flags and "Race Proven" written on the bottle 15w50 that you can get at Wally World for about $22 per Gallon? And no where on the gallon jug it says Motorcycle specific or good for Wet clutches?

Read up on oil from BR's link from page 1.

I also like the info on oil found here, they also have a great oil filter cross reference listed to and I now use only WalMart's SuperTech ST 7317 filters as they have superior filtering then most at the cheapest price(made by Champion)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Then BLS also made a post on page 1 regarding issues with the wet clutch. All your questions are answered in this very thread. wink.gif

I have read all the threads above and on to the links as well. I kind of glaze over after a few pages. I just picked up some 7317 filters at Wally-World, and I know BR switched back to M-1. I picked up some non Delvac M-1(probably my mistake) (assuming its automotive) and wanted to verify before poring this into the VFR. Maybe I will just go back and pick up the Rotella. Opinions on Oil are like.........belly buttons, and everyone has one. I just try to see what the majority of folks use, then filter that with the the opinions of the people that I think that they know what their talking about and pick from there.

Edit:

I knew I read it somewhere...

I switched back to Mobil 1 using there old 15w50 racing syn, it has the checked flags on the front and think it's the only one that states "Racing Approved" on the container. :laugh:

The VFR and Track bike are both happily using the 15w-50 and the Diesel is still on the Rotella. :angry:

I think I may have answered my own question.

Quote from "All about Oil" by Mark Lawrence

"Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows. "

I don't ride a Shadow, and don't think I ever have. I did ride a Saber once, and that was close enough for me to know it's not my preferred riding style.

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Guest akrodel

I changed my oil and filter (K&N) for the first time and put in 3 US quarts. Then started the engine and let it idle for 2 -3 minutes. The service manual says to turn off the engine and support the motorcycle on a level surface and check the oil level through the inspection window. Now here is my question... Do you check your oil with the centerstand down or with the kickstand down only? When on the centerstand it registers full (top line). When only on kickstand it does not register in the window. Check oil using centerstand or kickstand?

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Guest Pete McCrary
Repsol synthetic. Get a good deal on it so I buy it. :ots of it. I am also using a Scotts oil filter, the kind you clean instead of replace.

(Was using Rotella T in my race bike and had two bearings go tits-up. It was a SV650 motor, rear cylinder, connecting rod bearing and journal scorched. Also had to replace a Kawi 636 shifting drum after the use of Rotella T on the race track.)

Best of my memory, SV650's have a tendency to eat bottom ends when leaned on hard. That motor was actually an outgrowth of of 400cc twin so Suzuki themselves had already "upped the ante" on the stress on that bike. If you go to SVrider.com, you'll find that big end rod bearings going out is not uncommon on track bikes. That's why Spears and others offer Carillo rod kits for them.

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  • Member Contributer
I use AMSoil 10w-40. It seems to work very well, but here in Tucson, it has been getting pretty hot lately (102F on the way home today.) I am wondering if I should up the viscocity to like a 20W-40

If you want to go up in viscosity - go up on the the top end like 10w - 50. The first number is about vis at cold temp, the second is about the hot temp. (There is a specific temp each end supposed to be tested, but escapes me for the moment.)

MD

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  • 2 months later...
Guest theelf
I know the list of brands is far from complete but I added the major brands that seem to be talked about most here, and those you can find most anywhere - at least in the US. Other seems will be a large portion of this poll.

discuss, but dont biotch here. Facts mostly please, just gathering data here in the form of a poll

I was curious what does your user name mean???????

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a added point to oil changing.... I've been warming my bike up(by way of taking a ride)before I do the oil change..... The last two times, I've made sure to get all four valves moving as well. I'm not sure if there is any oil trapped if I don't, but I thought it can't hurt to be sure it's all flowing before the change.... comments welcome.....

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  • Member Contributer

I always change my oil after a ride (wait a couple minutes so it's not scalding hot) and I use regular Rotella with whatever filter I can find for a decent price (according to the list of acceptable substitutes). I change it according to the owner's manual recommended intervals. No sense in throwing away money!

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I recently upgraded from Honda Stock to 10-40 semi-synthetic by Maxima (Maxum4). Seems fairly prevalent here in Canada and costs a bit less than the rest.

Hello,

i intend to choose between:Motul 300 V 4T Factory Line 10W-40 and Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.Price doesn't matter(it's a small difference) :rolleyes:

PS:Form what "i've seen" most of the riders in Romania(EUROPE) are using Motul.(there are a part(racers) which are using Catrol-)i have a vfr800 '06

Thank you!

Edited by schumy
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