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Gutting 6th Gen Exhaust - The Easy Way.


Rice

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And chicks dig me!

That's why we do it :rolleyes:

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I think I'm gonna do this in the next few weeks.

but I'm probably gonna have a shop tig (weld) the caps back on for me

I really wish I could hear it in person first.

(same with any of the available exhausts)

I'm kind of afraid it will be too loud

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I think I'm gonna do this in the next few weeks.

but I'm probably gonna have a shop tig (weld) the caps back on for me

I really wish I could hear it in person first.

(same with any of the available exhausts)

I'm kind of afraid it will be too loud

Don't worry.

You can always buy a stock one for cheap.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Def-e-nition

Gooday chaps .

AM I correct in saying then , that a cut must NOt be made on the End where it's been welded at Factory - It should be cut 3/4 Of an Inch deeper in ?

I've decided to have this modification done , and Before I repeat the Cat removal Bungle my local guy made , Im going to research as much as possible to try and be his eyes inside the Canister .

I dont want to completely gut the inside . Can anyone possibly give me some more advice as to whether I can simply Cut out/off some of the pipes , or would this be a waste of time ?????

Thank you in advance guys . Next week is D-Day .

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Gooday chaps .

AM I correct in saying then , that a cut must NOt be made on the End where it's been welded at Factory - It should be cut 3/4 Of an Inch deeper in ?

Correct. I did mine about 1/4" forward of the factory weld, and it worked fine. As long as you're forward of the weld, and aft of the rearmost baffle (several inches into the can), you'll be good to go.

I've decided to have this modification done , and Before I repeat the Cat removal Bungle my local guy made , Im going to research as much as possible to try and be his eyes inside the Canister .

I dont want to completely gut the inside . Can anyone possibly give me some more advice as to whether I can simply Cut out/off some of the pipes , or would this be a waste of time ?????

Thank you in advance guys . Next week is D-Day .

Ehh... the two baffles in there are pretty well connected by the main center pipe. If you take the rear baffle out and leave the front one in, the pipe is going to be flapping around in there and causing a racket. If you're going to do it, I think you're going to have to do it all the way. If you're concerned about it being too loud, you can try just doing one side first and seeing how you like that. Make sure to get the endcap welded back on before you make any judgement calls on the sound, though... even just one side gutted, without the endcap, is obnoxiously loud. Once you get the cap back on it quiets down ALOT.

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Thanks sckego .

What about trimming Just the Pipes ? . This is a Tricky Lil Bugger to cut Open innit ?? yikes . So this one is an All-or-nothing approach . I'm not going to even ask the Absurdly Stupid question of just how loud it sounds , because it seems quite Ridiculous that a video-clip of some sort will be able to tell me just how loud I'm looking at . All i'd want to Know , is if it will be an acceptable performance increase , not just volume increase , and , second , If I would be able to gut the bugger , but leave the two end pieces sticking out of the shiney end-cap in place . I dont want to use the end cap as part of the physical exhaust .

I think , by looking at that hand drawn -job , that Im going to have the Guy remove the FIrst baffle and Main pipe , and then have him shorten the two pipes inside , and put back the end-baffle with the two pipes sticking out .

You reckon that might work ?? Sounds do-able . sckego - Does the Last Baffle Have : Two exhaust ports . 1 MAin Pipe , and ANOTHER hole as well ??? I cant seem to see it On that Pic , as the Baffle is Bent so bad ,as not to be able to show me a thing . so Correct me : 4 holes In TOTAL ????

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Thanks sckego .

What about trimming Just the Pipes ? . This is a Tricky Lil Bugger to cut Open innit ?? yikes . So this one is an All-or-nothing approach . I'm not going to even ask the Absurdly Stupid question of just how loud it sounds , because it seems quite Ridiculous that a video-clip of some sort will be able to tell me just how loud I'm looking at . All i'd want to Know , is if it will be an acceptable performance increase , not just volume increase , and , second , If I would be able to gut the bugger , but leave the two end pieces sticking out of the shiney end-cap in place . I dont want to use the end cap as part of the physical exhaust .

I think , by looking at that hand drawn -job , that Im going to have the Guy remove the FIrst baffle and Main pipe , and then have him shorten the two pipes inside , and put back the end-baffle with the two pipes sticking out .

You reckon that might work ?? Sounds do-able . sckego - Does the Last Baffle Have : Two exhaust ports . 1 MAin Pipe , and ANOTHER hole as well ??? I cant seem to see it On that Pic , as the Baffle is Bent so bad ,as not to be able to show me a thing . so Correct me : 4 holes In TOTAL ????

Ah! Confusion regarding usage of terms. When I said 'endcap' I meant what you are referring to as the 'end-baffle.' The shiny endpiece is part of the heat shielding and will just come off with the removal of some screws.

When you cut off the endcap, you're going to cut straight through two pieces of pipe that are welded to both the endcap and the rear baffle (these are the two exhaust ports that you want to keep... they'll still be there when you're done). After removing the rear baffle, you'll be left with the front baffle and the midpipe. The midpipe goes through the front baffle and then flares out, making removing it difficult. In fact, that is how I got the front baffle out--knocking the spot welds loose, then grabbing the midpipe with visegrips and yanking the whole thing out. You COULD try knock a big enough hole in the front baffle to just remove the midpipe... but honestly, that hole is going to be so big I doubt its going to make any difference in sound. When you get the endcaps welded back on, they'll still have those two pieces of pipe at the exhaust ports. Finally, reattach all the heat shielding, including the shiny endpiece.

You are correct that the rear baffle has 4 holes. The midpipe carries the exhaust from the front of the muffler through the two baffles to the end. The exhaust then flows back through a short pipe in the rear baffle into the center section, then into the two exhaust port pipes.

I don't think you're going to get any performance improvement, or at best, a very minimal one. I didn't notice any. The sound is much more pleasant, though... its just slightly louder, but with a much deeper tone at idle and low revs.

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Thanks sckego .

What about trimming Just the Pipes ? . This is a Tricky Lil Bugger to cut Open innit ?? yikes . So this one is an All-or-nothing approach . I'm not going to even ask the Absurdly Stupid question of just how loud it sounds , because it seems quite Ridiculous that a video-clip of some sort will be able to tell me just how loud I'm looking at . All i'd want to Know , is if it will be an acceptable performance increase , not just volume increase , and , second , If I would be able to gut the bugger , but leave the two end pieces sticking out of the shiney end-cap in place . I dont want to use the end cap as part of the physical exhaust .

I think , by looking at that hand drawn -job , that Im going to have the Guy remove the FIrst baffle and Main pipe , and then have him shorten the two pipes inside , and put back the end-baffle with the two pipes sticking out .

You reckon that might work ?? Sounds do-able . sckego - Does the Last Baffle Have : Two exhaust ports . 1 MAin Pipe , and ANOTHER hole as well ??? I cant seem to see it On that Pic , as the Baffle is Bent so bad ,as not to be able to show me a thing . so Correct me : 4 holes In TOTAL ????

You will have the two pieces sticking out - they get cut off on the inside with the end caps and stay attached. When you reattach the end caps the exhaust will look totally stock.

There is no performance gain. The seat-of-the-panstometer tells you that you are going faster due to more sound.

Removing some of the baffles is possible but very difficult because all pipes are welded in place and you have to pretty much destroy the baffles to dislodge the pipes.

Yes, there are 4 holes in the outer baffle.

About the sound - I was having the same reservations as you are. That is why I bought someone's spare exhaust to gut and left mine stock in case I didn't like the sound. I am still riding with the gutted exhaust and don't think I will ever give it up.

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Thanks Bud . I reckon It cant be any louder than a set of Arrows or Laser or staintunes Zorsts . mmmm, so the sound is much deeper , I like ...

I reckon you are right . So , I gut the Insides , and then Just leave the two pipes on the endcaps , to stick out through the shiney bit . Cool . Gotcha . If it gets Bad , then Ill ask the guy to fuse something halfway down the Middle of the Pipe .Or something .

Would he be able to do this mod ON the Bike , without removing the Pipes , or would you recommend that I get him to take them off , for fear of this twit perhaps hitting something on the Tailpiece ??

This has been of great help .

Thnks guys . thanks a lot .

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I did it while on the bike - no need to find ways of clamping the pipes down, which is no small feat in itself.

You do have to remove plastics from the tail in order to have better access and to save them from potential damage.

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This wanker took my Entire Front fairings off , and I was a little disappointed in the way he re-assembled everything . Sadly man , there just isn't ayone more skilled regards to welding the damn thing that I can trust . bit of a win-lose-win situation , but I should imagine there is less for him to mess up on the rear plastics than on the front . WOuld a cutter (plasma) ruin the outside finish If i were to ask him to cut the baffles out ?

I can hardly wait to hear this damn thing now . performance gain is not so much important as not having Performance LOSS . I am hoping this is possible .

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I haven't heard any gutted 6th gen exhausts, but all the others I've heard have that distinctively tinny, "I'm too cheap to buy a decent aftermarket pipe" sound. Good luck...

Ciao,

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry this may be a dumb question...

So I cut the end caps off and I grabbed the exposed pipes and pulled the ENTIRE assembly out. Including the fiberglass wrap. Can I just weld the end caps back on?

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Sorry this may be a dumb question...

So I cut the end caps off and I grabbed the exposed pipes and pulled the ENTIRE assembly out. Including the fiberglass wrap. Can I just weld the end caps back on?

Yep.

The sound is pretty much the same as if you left it in and went the route that I went.

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I gutted my 2006's pipes last weekend. Took me about 2 hrs to get the baffles out. I beat and beat on the baffles to get them out.

It really wasn't that hard just need to right tools and be patient.

I MIG welded the endcaps back on. Easy to weld since it is SS.

Bike is a little louder though. Sounds like it should.

One quick comment on the stock exhaust though. It is really heavy. I bet that sucker weight 20 lbs. I am thinking I will do away with the exhaust totally and run a small baffle down by the rear tire. I saw a Yoshimura one that is made for a GSXR 750.

Maybe a little too loud though.

Joe

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Sorry this may be a dumb question...

So I cut the end caps off and I grabbed the exposed pipes and pulled the ENTIRE assembly out. Including the fiberglass wrap. Can I just weld the end caps back on?

What work was involved in "pulling out the entire assembly"? Did you have to use tools and such like Rice did to get it out?

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All done now. $30 at a muffler shop to weld the end caps back on and I'm roaring!

About the "entire assembly" thing. I started trying to break/pull out the center pipe so I could get a chisel in there with a pair of pliers and while I was moving it the thing started to slide out...so I just pulled with 2 pliers on both sides and the whole thing slid out and DONE! I was a little worried it might sound funny, but so far I'm ok with it. Time will tell...

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I had the same experience in gutting my '03's exhaust. I was all prepared to pound and wrestle the baffles out, then noticed the double wall when I cut the endcaps off. The entire assembly pulled out without much effort. I bet I could reinstall it if I ever needed to.

I actually put about 500 miles on the bike before I had the endcaps welded back on. Damn that thing sounded nice! Reminded me of a NASCAR pit, hehe. Got a brass-pass, so didn't have to worry about getting pulled.

After having the caps TIG welded back on, it sounds much closer to stock than when it was completely open. I was kinda disappointed at first, but getting used to it now. Very throaty and doesn't sound tinny at all. I put in a K&N airfilter at the same time and notice a substantial increase in power and throttle response. This bike loves to breathe easy!

I definately recommend this mod to all owners. You won't regret it.

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Thanks for the write-up! Your picture was a huge help and I'm getting my endcaps welded back on today.

Wasn't easy beating the hell out of it and those factory welds, which weren't intended to be broken.

I had a hard time getting the inner baffle wall out. The welds were easier to break than the outer, but the 12" chisel wasn't long enough. I ended up beating the hell out of the end of 17" inch crowbar to bend the inner wall enough for it to come out.

Definately wear gloves. Sliced the hell out of my thumb on the jagged edge of the exhaust when I had my gloves off.

I didn't pull out the entire assembly. I liked the sound of Soichiro's gutted exhaust and didn't want to get away from what I had previously heard.

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when you say pull out the entire assembly, are you referring yo the black inner part that is in the picture? It looks to be a silver outside and then a black inside. Just grab the black part soehow and yank it out?

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when you say pull out the entire assembly, are you referring yo the black inner part that is in the picture? It looks to be a silver outside and then a black inside. Just grab the black part soehow and yank it out?

He is talking about the double walled mesh shell that lines the walls on the inside of the muffler. Baffles and pipes are incased in it.

Depending on where you cut the end caps off, it may be easier or harder to pull it out of the muffler.

I cut mine right down the middle of the original welds. This left some welding on the muffler side, which prevented the "entire assembly" from coming out.

If you cut just preior to the welds, so that they are completely removed with the end caps, you will be able to pull out the the entire assembly.

At the time, I wanted to leave the mesh inner part in order to make the sound deeper. However, when I had a chance to compare it to Vecky5s' sound with the the entire assembly pulled out, there was no difference at all.

Do what's easier - Pull the whole thing.

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Great! Thanks!

Welcome.

And BTW, Katana 600 was my first bike.

You can sorta see it in the first picture - all the instruments are laying on top of it.

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Nice! I actually bought the katana as a project bike but never got it running, was sent a few faulty parts and have been waiting since....

I've been riding artound my buddies R6 and am loving it. A few months into riding and i've not gotten less than 57 mpg smile.gif That's canyon cruising and everything!

Looking forward to the VFR though, will seem like a cruiser in comfort compared to the R6.

-Mike

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