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Found 7 results

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  1. I bought this VF500F earlier this year as a project bike and my second ever motorcycle. I have been working on making it look better and work as it did in the '80s(while modernizing where I can). I thought I was buying a 1985 VF500F, but have since found out from the MTO history documents that it is an '84. Its got 56 thousand km on it, but it runs and it was cheap. I have been told that one of the previous owners restored it using a few donor bikes and based on the frame paint and what not I'd say it has. I have been taking it apart and learning how it works so that I can fix up anything is out of date or falling apart. It has been fairly straight forward so far using guides and chatting with people on this forum, but I have a few questions and am looking for general advice. I've been thinking about the exhaust on this bike for awhile. The bike has some sort of upgraded 4-1 exhaust on it and I think I've identified it as the Hindle 4-1 pipe. It shows it's age though. There is rust pitting and an odd cloudy texture on the metal. How do I resurface the pipe? Also, the can that was on the end was a SuperTrap, but its kinda broken and I'd like something lower profile too. I have been considering leaving the end open as a straight pipe, except the end of the pipe is messed up and has an adapter bolted straight through it. To fix this I want to remove the end bit of the pipe and fab my own stainless side exit. Would this be viable? Will it mess with the tuning too much? I am aware of the carb jetting I'd need to do in order to make it work and I can do it. All that I've been reading from GAZ's topic about building his own pipe has put me off though. I'd also like to know what having this pipe means compared to stock. Besides the exhaust I am open to advice for things to fix. So far my list of things to do looks like this: Tires Repainted wheels Lights Speedometer Redone seat Chain and sprockets Wobbly clutch lever(How do I fix this?) Carb sync and clean Carb jetting Mirrors I am going to link an album of pictures here for the pipe. http://imgur.com/a/RmqqA P.S. - I am not keeping the original look of this bike, but I am a huge fan of the engineering behind the VFR series and I've wanted one of these since I first got into bikes. If anyone in Ontario needs red plastics or stock parts I can hook you up. This is an ultra-low budget D.I.Y. build, since I'm 18 and in school(before anyone suggests super sonic builders who can do it for me). Why is mine red?
  2. I've been thinking that the New Members section of the forum is perhaps not the best place to keep my hybrid conversion and restoration thread updated, so I have decided to move it here instead. Here's the background for anyone who hasn't seen it yet:
  3. VF500 Rest0-mod

    Welcome! This will be a thread where I show off the finished product(s) of my VF500 Resto-mod. I will only be featuring work I have done or modified myself. I will not be including specifics on how I did things here, but I will answer smaller questions. If you too are working on a VF500 you may want to see my other thread where I've been back and forth asking questions to the forum on how to solve problems with my build. My motorcycle is a 1984 VF500F. I picked it up with 56,000km on it. I have been restoring it inside and out. I am replacing parts that I think are outdated, for the purpose of either making it look better or preform better. Besides bolstering the performance I am changing the look of the bike from it's boxy-retro look, and into a bit of a streetfighter or cafe-racer. One thing you will notice about this build is that it is not going to be a perfect show-bike finish. The simple answer to this is the fact that I can not afford the tools or materials, nor do I have the expertise to do it anyways. This bike is ultra-low budget. Wheels I sanded down the old paint and metal. I fitted modern radial tires that give it a lower profile (and in my opinion a cleaner look). Then I painted the red and white using Duplicolor wheel spray paint. Seat Being vertically challenged, I reshaped the foam of the seat while I was recovering it with new vinyl. Handlebars/Mirrors I pulled the cores out of the stock handlebars so that I can fit bar-end mirrors. Used a drill, tap and a slide hammer. Mirrors are in the mail. Carburetors After cleaning the carbs I put bigger jets in to accommodate a straight pipe and K&N air filter. I also did a mod that Dutchy taught me about where you drill an additional fuel line, to prevent a lean mixture on the fourth and third carb. Fourth carb with jets and extra fuel-in^
  4. Restoring engine casing

    Hey all. At some point later next month, i'll be giving the Veefer a partial strip and a DAMN good clean. My question is pretty much as the title suggests: Is there an easy way to clean the engine casing in place? Specifically talking about the area behind the front wheel. I have workshop and bench access via work. All i can really think of right now is Paraffin (Kerosene) and maybe brake/clutch cleaner. Maybe sulphur-based Alloy wheel cleaner (given that it's formulated to clean aluminium). While i'm in there, i might take the headers off to clean and paint them (if the bolts come out easily, won't risk it otherwise). Thoughts?
  5. 1986 Vfr 750R Rebuild

    Hoping this is the right place to post. This is the rebuild process of my early prototype VFR-750R built in 1986 and imported into Australia specifically for use as a race bike. I bought it in 1994 and was lucky enough to get it with an engine that was built in 1993 with the full HRC race kit installed. At the time this kit alone cost almost $60,000 in addition to the cost of the bike. And back then they were selling in dealerships for just under $20,000. The bike was raced its entire life and then retired when the RC45 was introduced. Thats when I was able to pick it up for what I considered to be a steal. I rode the hell out of it, doing 50 or so track days in 5 years before the crank lost a gallery plug, causing the bottom end to seize. The stock titanium conrods were destroyed but I was able to get the crank repaired. At the same time I was in the process of moving here to the US so I had no time to repair it. As a result I covered the chassis in a layer of grease, put the engine in a waterproof box and put it into storage. 10 years later I was able to ship it over here so I packed it up and it arrived with the thick layer of grease still in place. It took another 3 years to find all the parts I needed before I could even think about rebuilding it, and then my 996 went all Ducati on me and I had to rebuild it just so I could get rid of it. But once that was done I cleared out my work space and got started. There were a few nasty surprises in the build but nothing I couldn't handle. There were a bunch of parts on this bike custom made by the race team that were either broken or worn out but thats why I taught myself how to use Autocad and a bunch of CAD/CAM programs. I built myself a small CNC mill specifically to make parts for this RC30. So here are some pictures: My first track day on this bike early in 1994 Picking up the package from the freight hub in Houston The special parts cleaner in use. It works perfectly. Cases all clean and ready to go back together. Heres the top end ready to go back together. New aftermarket rods cost more than my KTM supermoto. You can see the damage on the original titanium rod but these are not repairable. Checking side clearance on the new rods when installed. Using the damned expensive internal micrometer to check the custom bearings. Much more accurate than plastigauge provided you take all measurements with the parts at the same temperature. Old pistons are worn out. Thats why the motor was smoking a little the last few times I rode it. New pistons. Notice the different reading on the micrometer. Thats the difference between smoke and no smoke under decell. Checking the cylinders. Thankfully they were still within spec. This motor has the cylinders cast into the top crank case. As a result the engine has to come apart any time new pistons are needed. Here they are going in: From below. Individually weighed and balanced rods and pistons installed. Transmission installed after each gear was washed and all bearings checked. There are four of these oil jets in the cases. Dont forget any or there will be problems. Cases together. It takes a lot of jiggling. Heres a question - who can shed some light on the spiral groves on this bolt? It holds the cases together so has no interaction with oil or gears. Heads of two of these are visible in the next picture. Flipped over, this is the oil pump. Its actually from a VF1000R as the standard pump doesnt have passages for the lines to the oil cooler. I figured this would be the best time to bring the engine and chassis together. Thats when I noticed the crud in the threads. Heres a shot from the timelapse - frame installed on the engine. http://youtu.be/PTBPv6x7GbA Roger at OnroadOffroad.com rebuilt the shock and forks. This is the titanium swingarm pivot - part of the HRC kit. It feels light as aluminum. Here are the starter motor and gears I installed when I first got the bike. Why? Bump starting is a real pain. Race kit crank allows ignition timing to be adjusted. All ready to button up. (oil cooler bypass line waiting for new hoses) Time to start work on the carbs. Luckily I emptied them before I stored them so they werent bad at all. I installed a choke system - not easy with the short-port NL0 heads. But worth its weight in gold. On the other side of the motor I found some more stripped threads. The race team helicoiled almost every bolt hole in the motor for reduced weight. I did the rest. Coming together nicely. Checking piston travel to verify cam settings. Checking cam travel. There is actually a degree of difference between the front and rear intake cams. Not sure which one is wrong though. I cant adjust until I know which one is correct. I then found a bad bearing on the front bank so I replaced both. Here the hot bearing drops onto the chilly cam. Race kit ID mark. Now comes the fun part. The race kit wiring harness was replaced with the stock wiring harness so I could use the starter but is huge and heavy. So I ordered a used VFR-F harness to donate wire and connectors for a new harness made to the race kit wiring diagram. I later found out that there were several plugs missing from the F model harness. I found a goldwing harness that had all the plugs I needed and it was an easy process to make the new harness with starter motor and charging circuit added. Kit CDI connected to the new harness. We now have sparks in all the right places. Heres the new brake calipers mounted with custom made brackets. The old calipers needed new seals that were no longer available. Hopefully these calipers from a 999S will work as well as the AP Lockheed ones. (Thats not dirt on the calipers, the previous owner painted them then scraped most of the paint off. Theres a little more left to do though).
  6. I like lists, i like sharing lists. I also like to get feedback on work or addons to do. Would love to get replacement mirrors with that 'memory click' position thing like modern bikes have - But would need to pretty much be bolt on and go. Even better if they have built-in indicators. I'm mostly restoring or improving bits around the bike right now; Older bolts are being replaced with OEM parts, some of the weird green-ish ones are being swapped out with stainless versions and/or being upgraded to a caphead. DONE new OEM front spindle bolt new OEM front mudguard bolts new handlebar bolts new OEM fairing bolts new OEM rear sprocket nuts new OEM rear wheel nuts new OEM rear wheel locking nut new tank bolts delete airbox snorkel disable flapper valve add MRA Vario touring screen add Stomp grip pads new mirror bolts modify undertray - remove document tabs add USB socket new front fork pinch bolts paint buffed sealed and waxed paint rear sprocket paint forks Fit bar risers (AMAZING difference) TO-DO touch-up bracket holding speedo and replace nuts and bolts replace bar pinch bolts replace protruding bolts near grabs with something smaller replace fuel cap bolts with new caphead clean and spray around front engine area behind front wheel replace carbon heel guards Disassemble parts under top yoke and clean replace calliper bolts w/ caphead rear sprocket washers engine bolts (6x32) x22 - replace visible only w/ stainless caphead get paint chips and scuffs fixed ADDONS 350mm Delkevic high-line can Denali sound bomb (horn) (split version) R&G bar end sliders R&G crash bungs Pipercross air filter Wheels powdercoated Puig lever set Riderscan DID X ring heavy duty chain & sprockets Mirror spacers (20mm) Tank shield oxford heated grips (sports) Exhaust protector Yamaha R1 reg/rec (2004-2006) Must be MOSFET / FH Headlight protector Pilot road 4's reflective rim tape MCT suspension service CNC foot pegs Jollify carbon heel guards grippy seat re-cover + mod for lower angle Voltage meter
  7. 84 vf750 and 85 vf700 part swap

    Howdy Riders, I'm new here and I recently bought myself a 1984 vf750 in fair condition with 23k miles for $1000. I don't have any photos on my computer of it, or i'd post them for yall. The bike needs some work and tlc and over this coming winter i'll be attempting to get it up and going full time. I'm fairly impressed with the bike given its age compared to my gz250. I can finally hit those highways! However lets get to my question. There is an advert for a 1985 vf700 for 500 dollars, and it was in a wreck. The ad states that the seller has all the parts for it, to get back together. I thought I might beable to get him down to $300 or so, especially so if I cant hear it run. My 1984 has the dreaded "second gear clutch slip" due to being abused by it's past rider. I know that It is more or less the Cog in the tranny that might have a chipped tooth. Sooooooo.... I was wondering it the gearbox for the 1985 vf700 would bolt straight up to my bike? Given the different engine size. And if Anyone knew of what parts wouldn't interchange with the two bikes, I'd wish to know. I'm just interested in having a parts bike. and hell maybe cover the cost it by parting it out after I get everything off that I need/want. Thank you.