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Found 7 results

  1. Hello fello VFRers, I'm new to VFR but not to Honda or the biking world. A fried looking at bikes led me to see an advert for the VFR and I was instantly in love. A couple days later I drove 9 hours to pick her up. Previous owner was a man of few words and from what I can tell not so mechanically minded. 70,000km and DOES NOT RUN - owner believes it is the carb from sitting/bad fuel. He is a plumber by trade and simply hadn't ridden her for a couple years and wanted to sell her to buy a Harley. That is about all the information I could gleam in 30 minutes, he simply claimed he couldn't remember any more. Garaged and appears reasonable. The bike has had a very low speed fall at some stage but fairings were repaired and no damage to casings etc. (just the bar end and rear break pedal). A few fairing bolts are missing. It came with the rear cowl. Now I've had some good experience fixing up a couple carbs and getting bikes running so I wasn't too concerned about the non-running condition. It was cheap enough and frankly, I simply like to tinker. And this isn't a 1979 CB, this is a 1994, how hard could it be?... I was super excited when I got it home and poured some petrol in to try and get it going. Fuel tank cap not locking/unlocking well at all. Fuel streamed out through a hole in the tank. Job #1 = refurbish the tank and fuel cap. Further inspection saw fuel squirting out like a stuck aorta from some fuel hoses. Closer inspection saw it coming from a stainless steel t-piece which someone had already tried to fix by adding tape. This had me perplexed and then I remembered the previous owner's employment. The t-piece was designed for water and the tape was the well known plumbing sealant tape. The tape was partially melted by fuel. Job #2 = replace t-piece (part# 17193-MN5-000) Fuel petcock appears modified and dicey at best. Best I replace. Any suggestions? Then I opened the carbs...and my heart sank. I'll attach some photo's. I'm just a tinkerer but I've never seen carbs in such bad condition. The bowls were filled with what looked like sand and broken glass. The float needles required PRYING from the seats! One choke valve assembly has snapped!! Job #3&#4 - clean up carbs and repair broken bits. So I broke the assembly apart. Completely apart. Ultrasonic cleaned all that was metal. Checked diaphragms (which contained chunks of a filter of days past). Cleaned jets. All is looking better. My main concern is with the seats. Two in particular appeared to suffer a lot of oxidization and pitting. I used a small amount of soft metal polish and a fine cloth covered probe to polish the seats and remove oxidization. They came up surprisingly well but I'm still dubious. I put hours into these things and I don't even know if it runs yet. I also managed to lose one screw (part no. 16108-MW0-750) which holds an ACV assembly in place. I've ordered 4 new aftermarket float needles (16155-413-751). I like to get OEM but given my concerns with the seats at the moment I don't want to spend all that money. I also ordered one new needle jet holder (16165-MV4-000) as one of them was definitely cross threaded in. 3 hours of a mechanic mate drilling it out. He did an unbelievable job. I'm yet to order the replacement starter valve assembly (16046-MZ7-640). They're hard to find, is this something that breaks often? Can anyone suggest an alternative?? It's just the head of the brass piston which has snapped off. I'm thinking I might be alright with just 3 carbs operating under choke...opinions? I still have to get the missing screw - I'm thinking a hardware store might suffice for now. There are no used carb parts available for this model in my state. There is a 91 model which might be available for parts and one guy selling the full carb assembly from a 95. I'm thinking that the 91 starter valve isn't compatible. I concede that I should have probably just bought the second hand carbs but at the time it wasn't an option. Now that I've put all that effort into these bad boys (ultrasonic cleaned and painfully polished the seats) I'm thinking I'll try get these going before forking out money for the used set. Sound like a good plan? I think I need to check with others or I kinda get wrapped up in tinker-land and over invest my time and effort. The last photo is post ultrasonic. I only used a non-toxic alkaline mixture. While I'm at it. I'd like to check the valve clearances. Is this pretty straight forward in the frame?? I'm really looking forward to giving this girl the treatment she deserves. BJ p.s. Yes, I'm aware the rims aren't stock. I'm not sure what the deal is there.
  2. Hi all, I just got gifted a 99 vfr800f1 and it needs some serious tlc. Can anyone tell me if they know where I could get wire connectors for the alternator wire? The previous owner cut them off. I'm on a tight budget, so I was wondering if it would be okay to just Butt connect the wires, of would it be best to get a new regulator and alternator wire? I also found a small ring shaped item near the coolant overflow tan that I could use some help identifying. Thank you all! I have attached some pictures. Thanks again. I have been wanting a bike for years. My last was an ex CHP BMW 11rtp. and I'm excited to get back on two wheels! Thanks again for any help! Mike
  3. I retire in April next year and although I’ll have plenty to do I thought it was a good excuse for a project - something to keep me occupied in the bad weather and the odd evening. After lurking around the forum for some time I’ve decided on building a VFR750 4th gen from scratch. I’ve been looking out for parts and have already got a small collection including frame, subframe, swing arm, rear brake caliper, loom and rear wheel. My plan was to get the original shock that came with the swing arm serviced but decided to get a new Nitron shock instead. I want to complete the rolling chassis while looking for an insurance write off or similar as a donor bike with the intention of building something near standard but to lose some weight if possible along the way. I would also like to fit a Koso gauge, left sided exit exhaust and an alternative fairing. The wiring loom has a burnt R/R connector which needs replacing and I’m well aware of the problems with the Honda R/R from the forum. I already have a R6 unit on my VFR400 and I’ll probably get another unless theres a preferred alternative. The swing arm took me a week to dismantle, the hub assembly had seized badly and I had to soak it daily with penetrating oil, patiently dismantling it part by part. Anyway here are the initial collection of parts after cleaning, fitting new bearings, polishing and powder coating. And after assembly Now I've got something thats starting to look like a bike its hard not to dive in - afterall it's something to do when I finish work. For now I need to lookout for parts and gather as much information as possible particularly instrumentation set up, alternative exhaust systems and fairings.
  4. I've posted about this in the past, but I finally sourced the parts I needed and had some time off school and work to go tinker in the garage. I did some research into the stock system vs an aftermarket system and they all said the same thing. The stock exhaust is heavy, restrictive, and muffles the sound off the V4 engine a little too much using a 3 baffle system. Aftermarket exhausts were lighter, way louder because of a straight through design, but didn't look right compared to the stock cans. Many people also run into bag fitment issues when using aftermarket cans. So my problem was how to take the best of both worlds, looks and proper fitment of the stock can, and mesh it with the performance and sound of an aftermarket can? What I came up with was a design to remove the stock baffles and replace it with a single baffle that would flow better, sound better, lose a bit of weight, and last a long time. The final design changed from my poorly done sketch, but I think it'll work better This will be a photo heavy post, sorry to those with slower connections, but my hope is that others will be able to do the same if they choose to. So here's what I did: I ordered up a used gen 6 exhaust system off ebay to hack apart so I could keep the stock one if I ever wanted to go back. Removed the heat shields and other bits and bobs. I cut off the tips of each can right beside the weld using a dremel. It took 12 cutting wheels and a dull hacksaw blade (ran out of cutting wheels) to remove both sides. That metal is tough! I used vice grips to pull out the stock baffles, it took a fair bit of wiggling and pulling but they eventually slipped out. Wear gloves when you do this, as the cut metal is quite sharp and the fibreglass packing around the baffles is super itchy. I then removed the fibreglass sheet from the baffles and broke out the cutting wheels again. After cutting off both ends of the baffle, cutting through the inlet and outlet pipes as well, I discarded the center section as it would be unneeded in the final design. At this point I picked up a 48" length of 1.25" perforated stainless steel pipe to be cut into 4 smaller sections (12" each). I used a 1.25" bi-metal hole saw to cut two holes on the inlet side of the stock baffle to fit the perforated pipe through. I laid everything out and riveted the stainless pipes to the outlet pipes to keep them in place. I'll take everything to be welded at a later date. I then slipped the inlet pipe of the stock baffle over the two new pipes and placed rivets on each side to hold it in place. After some pushing and a few cuts later, I was able to slip the new set up into the stock can no problem. I still have to finish the other can before re-installing everything on the bike and firing it up. Hopefully I'll have that done later this week. Exams and work keep interfering with play time Total costs: Muffler: 250$ Pipe: 40$ Rivets: 7$ total: ~250$ for a perfectly fitting gen 6 slip on!
  5. Hello Everyone, Thought I would share my project with you and hope that you can benefit from some of the things I will be doing. I would also ask that if you have any input or suggestions please feel free to comment. I recently picked up a 1999 VFR800 with only 10,000km for $1400.00. Unfortunately the previous owner laid it down on the left side and then parked it for 9-10 years outside under a BBQ cover. It did start and ran a little rough, I am hoping that a new set of plugs and fuel injector cleaning will help. I was fortunate that a gentleman purchased this from the BBQ cover guy and spent some time going over the bike. He ordered some parts did some cleaning and then did not have time to complete the project. So...to start, the bike needs a lot of TLC: I have already started some of the work listed below and will post pictures following this intro. - The body will require some work, front fairing scraped left side, left signal light needs to be replaced, rear seat cowl cracked and damaged left side, left engine cover has a broken mount and the gas tank has a baseball sized dent. Some body filler, plastic weld, elbow grease and a fresh coat of paint will be needed...I have considered a new set although can't justify $700.00 for the set. - Front and Rear Brake calipers are stiff, so I will do a rebuild or at least strip them down, inspect and reassemble. The brake fluid is dark but not milky or clumpy, will flush all the fluid - The steering stem is a little rough so I will inspect and replace bearings if needed - Front and rear rims are oxidizing and will need to be stripped and powder coated - Front tire needs to be replaced, rear tire is questionable and may replace due to the age...no cracks visible and decent tread.. - Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions? - Forks have some spot rust on the chrome tubes but it doesn't look like any pitting, forks are not leaking but dust seals are cracked from age will need to be replaced, Fork bottoms are oxidized and need to be repainted - Gauge faces are cloudy from sitting for so long. Will try polishing with headlight restore kit - Radiator hose clamps are rusted - I will replace all of them ..just for looks :-), hoses look OK and just need a good cleaning - Radiator fluid is clean, although it's probably a good idea to flush the system..was considering to remove the water pump to inspect..still undecided - Rear axle and chain tensioner assembly have some corrosion so I will strip and clean the whole assembly while I have it apart Some Parts I already ordered..(wow!! Amazing how the dollars add up) - Mirrors L&R - Gas cap - Brake Pads - Brake and clutch levers - Standard Headlight bulbs - handle grips - full bolt kit for body panels - Zero Gravity double bubble wind screen - Front Wheel bearings and seals - Steering stem bearing and seal kit (All Balls) - Fork seal kit - Gas tank Seals - Battery - Front and Rear tires - Pirelli Diablo - Mightyvac Brake Bleeder - Plastifix (Plastic weld for fairings) - new brake and clutch master cylinders (incl new levers) - new chain - all new brake line seals and new bleeders - new wheel nuts - new nuts for rear sprocket - new axle nut and plastic plug - dust seals for swing arm, dog bone and rear shock - water pump seal - new cush drive rubbers - clutch slave seal kit - new start/stop and headlight / horn switches - new gas tank rubbers - new turn signal and brake bulbs - fork stop clips - fork protectors - all new dust seals for rear hub - new bolts for brake calipers - new spark plugs - complete new decal set for tank, fairings and rear cowl - new gear shift lever and rubber - new coolant reservoir - new clutch slave cylinder - new leather stitched seat cover - new upper front stay (oops, looked like it was bent) - crankcase gasket - new bar ends - new rubber for footpegs - new oil filter - new collars and pin bolts for foot pegs (sliders) - new rear brake switch and rear brake springs - If you have any suggestions or comments please share them
  6. Gotta make room for some bike maintenance

    From the album TexasMac 2013

    Somewhere in there are the parts I need to get my bike(s) ready for TexasMac!
  7. Here we go. As I promised in my first post: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/73879-hi-from-brisbane-au/ I am officially starting my build thread now ;) I was planning to do it when I get more time to spend on the VFR, but I realized that It will never happend as I am involved in a few other builds, as well as my main project at the moment which is opening a workshop in Brisbane YAY! So this will be very slow build I'm afraid :(
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