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Found 47 results

  1. Hi All. Don't want to state this too soon, but after 46,500k's and the bike now 3.5 years old, all appears to be working fine with the Electrics. Honda seem to have solved the crispy stator and occasional R/R burn ups previous 6gen owners like myself had become so used to. To my knowledge there has only been one known issue under warranty with an R/R that was causing slow battery drain and buzzing! (See "Parasitic Drain" thread by Jad2477). I fitted a voltmeter to the bike a few months ago and have been very impressed at the voltage stability irrespective of load and rpm, a very constant 14.5volts, even at idle with the heated grips on level 5. Guess you can put this down to the new stator (made by Hitachi), very efficient new type R/R and the low current drawn by the new LED Headlights. Just for Info. Cheers.
  2. Speedometer Back

    From the album MadScientist's Gallery

  3. Hello All, I had a problem with my VFR. I was riding home from work last and it started backfiring and feeling under powered. Also when I get on the throttle it surges and feels as if it loses torque. Especially in the higher RPM's it happens. Around 6000+ RPM it will surge more frequently and lose torque/acceleration. It seems to me that the RPM should also climb a lot quicker then it does. It will also backfire during compression braking, holding RPM and accelerating in the higher rpm. It usually runs aroun1000-1100 RPM at idel but now it idles anywhere from 1000-900 RPM I know it's not a big difference but it was enough for me to notice. Here are the things I have done to troubleshoot/Fix the problem. 1. Checked the primary coils and secondary coils. (Within Service Manual's Ohms range) 2. Checked the pulse generator (Within Service Manual's Ohms range) 3. Checked the Ignition Control Module and all test were negative. 4. Bought & replaced old spark plugs with NGK spark plugs. (I did not do a leak down test because there is no smoking or oil smell in the exhaust, Should've I done one anyway?) I am starting to wonder if this is a carburetor issue or something else with fuel mixture or delivery. Come to think of it the fuel pump does project a loud repetitive clicking sound every once in a while. I really hope that it is something besides the carbs. It terrifies me just thinking about taking those off. I have the original service manual which shows excellent visual and verbal instructions. I have just never dug that far into the bike before and it makes me nervous! If any of you have any suggestions on what to do please let me hear them. It will be greatly appreciated and Thank you in advance.
  4. So I picked up a USB charger with a 12v that connects directly to the battery. In the process of that and some other work, I ended up killing the battery, and I do think while boosting it, ended up seeing this behaviour but writing it off as a depleted battery (and still could have been). Tonight however I can definitely say that it was not a dead battery. I picked my wife up from work and everything was working swimmingly. Powered the bike down while waiting for her, and when we got on, I put the bike in neutral, kicked up the stand, clicked in the starter button and BAM, headlamps out, clock off, instrument panel off. There was absolutely no power to anything. When disconnecting the unit to troubleshoot, I noticed that the negative lead screw was a bit loose, thinking that that might have caused the issue, I tightened it and tried again, but there was absolutely no power to the bike when I turned the key on. I disconnected the unit altogether, connected the battery, and voila! As soon as I turned the key, lights and panel were on, and the bike started up like a champ. I'm curious as to what might have caused this. The charger has an inline fuse, but even if that blew, I would guess that only the charger should power down. The cable is tied to the hard metal lines that run inside the frame, inspected the wiring and there's no exposed wire. Even if the unit is a piece of junk, what would cause the bike to just lose power when it's connected. If I had blown a fuse or something, I can't imagine that the bike would be fine once it was disconnected. The battery wasn't drained as the starter cranked over confidently when it was just the battery terminals that were connected. Also, when you connect something to the battery, should you connect it over or under the terminals? Would it even make a difference?
  5. Possible short, I need your eyes.

    Randomly, my motorcycle's gauges and headlights (but not the turn signals) will die. Afterwards, I check the fuses and the meter/gauges 10 amp fuse has blown. This has happened 4x now and I've already tried isolating the problem by trying different actions to try to cause it. I can not reproduce problem via the brakes, shifting, brights, turn signals, ignition switch or kickstand. I've taken a picture of the back of the gauges because I know that the plastic circuit board can sometimes bend and sever connections. I do not see any breaks, but I did see some dirt on top of several rows of circuit lines. I've since cleaned the dirt and have not had any problems testing in my garage, but I'm not convinced. Do you see anything of immediate concern? Do you know of the best safest way to clean the board? I gently used a soft towel.
  6. Why does my bike die?

    I hate electrical problems! So after winter hibernation bike starts and runs fine except when I connect the battery leads for my heated gear (coax) or charger (SAE plug). It doesn't matter which is connected to the battery. Dashlights work but when I hit the start button, I lose power. Turn the key off and on the dashlights come back on but dies when I hit the start button again. All is good when I remove the leads so it's just the battery and VFRness connected. It worked before and I'm not doing anything differently from before. What could it be? Any ideas?
  7. Mosfet

    Hi Guys, I purchased a universal Mosfet kit from Jason at motoelectrix for my 06 vfr. My question is about the extra red,red/wht,grn and black wires coming out of the orginial Honda R/R. Where do I reroute these wires to in the harness, do I just let them lay because they are Batt and Grn leads back to the battery or do they go other places ?
  8. Mystery black box

    Anyone know what this black box is? I'm in the process of adding a distribution block and I came across this box. It's in the under seat compartment on the other side of the battery. It has only one wire bundle going in/out. I opened it up and it contains a couple logic chips on a motherboard. It connects to the same part of the harness that the kickstand safety switch attaches to. The only added electronics the previous owner added was heated grips, and I've accounted for all the connections associated with it. I've looked through the shop manual and can't find this on the wiring schematic or in the electrical connects chapter. It's an '02, California bike.
  9. I am in need of help. A normal day of riding turned bad. Drove for 50km and had to stop for gas. Filled up and ready to go. Then the bike just won't start. Just making weird clicking noise from under the seat. Had to be trucked back home. So I made a short video with the seat removed. The clicking happens when I press the starter. Sounds like a arching or some electrical problem. Any help/ suggestions appreciated. (I hope the video opens) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PXETDt3BnM
  10. Ahoy. I still haven't gotten around to replacing my low beam relay. Why? It looks like i'll have to strip the front end to get to it. Am i missing something here? Is there a quick and easy way to do this?
  11. Got myself one of these from good old ebay. The idea was to turn the parking light in to a daytime running light, and maybe a more effective parking light for the same power draw. Not that i've ever needed the parking light... (required in the UK when parking on a road with a speed limit of 40mph or more, but i'd just park off the road). I also bought one of this type of LED to try. Couldn't really get it back in to the headlight without dislodging it from the housing, and i had concerns about the top mounted LED causing heat problems as it'd be less than 5mm from a plastic part directly above the bulb. Next up: Brake light LEDs.
  12. Hi VFR folks, I've been away for a couple of years... got pretty wrapped up in ZX14's and my Ducati 748. So about 2 years ago I was riding the VFR to work and my lights and instruments went out while I was on the highway. The bike still ran fine, so I made it to work and home ok. I pulled it onto the workstand and took some panels off and started poking around... decided it would be a good idea to rewire my accessories while fixing this issue, so I went to wiremybike.com and ordered a VFRness, an accessory fuse panel, and the Blue Connector Quick Fix. This would be a better way to handle my heated grips, airhorn, LED lights, power commander, etc. So the parts arrived, then life happened. Other projects took priority, the ZX14 and the 748 were keeping me busy, and the VFR just sat there... for two years. My son came home on leave from the Air Force and gave me a hard time about the abandoned VFR, so I started working on it last night. I installed the wiremybike items, new battery, and fresh gas. Bike fired right up and runs smooth. My electrical problem was still there though, so tonight I started troubleshooting. I downloaded the color schematic and found the fusebox in the front right fairing. The "E" 10a fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and turned the key to ON and the new fuse immediately blew. Something was shorted to ground for it to blow that fast. The schematic showed the circuit is the Brown wire with Blue stripe, so put my meter leads on that wire and ground and read 0.00 ohms... which is a short. I started on the left side of the schematic and worked my way to the right. I disconnected each item powered by the circuit and checked to see if the short went away. When I disconnected one of the rear light bulbs, my short went away. I couldn't believe it... that was the last thing I expected. Bulbs usually 'open' not 'short' when they fail. I compared the two bulbs, the bad one failed in a way I've never seen before. The filament was gone (normal), but one of the metal posts that hold the filament melted and shorted to the other post. Strange. So I let my VFR sit for two years because I had a bad lightbulb :) Tomorrow night I'll clean and oil the K&N, get it all put back together with a new bulb, and give her a bath. Saturday will be oil change, and a nice test ride. Sunday I'm riding her from PA to Wisconsin... so wish me luck.
  13. I recently did some electrical work and had to solder in a new wire. I have the VFRness, and anyone who has it knows how tight the right side fairing is against the bike with it on. I'm at a point where I cannot reposition this connector bunch, and it now partially pops out above the fairing. Aesthetically, I'll get over it, but I am more concerned with the any water getting in it should I ride in the rain. Has anyone tried to waterproof these before?
  14. My bike left me stranded, 2004 with 22K on it. Was riding, shut if off to get gas, then turned the key on and the dash never appeared - clock was still there so I know there's battery power. Towed it home, went to start it several hours later, and was messing around and it started! Then it wouldn't restart. Here are the details - I have the VFRness - battery is in good shape, 12.86volts off. - when the bike is off, 12.86 volts flow to the two 20 amp VFRness fuses (measured by removing the fuses) - both fuses had some burning look to them (attached) --- replaced the fuses and it still did not turn on for a while - started after that off chance try, but would not turn back on. I did have a change while riding today in that my phone was hooked up to the batter with this battery tender attachment, but since I see voltage at the battery I'm not sure it toasted it. I am thinking it is a faulty connection, but I am not sure where to start looking. Are there common failure points I should be aware of?
  15. Hi guys, After riding in San Francisco traffic for about 30 minutes, I stopped to get some donuts. The temp was at 210-220F the whole time in the city, but I think its normal. When I got back on the bike to start it, it clicked but the engine didnt crank. The clock got reset. So I pushed started it and it worked. When I got back home, I checked and charged the battery, but it only took 5 minutes to charge it. So, my question is, is there something on the bike that prevents the bike from starting again when it has been running hot? It is not the battery because, it would start again when the bike is cold. I was thinking it might be starter related problems.... If you guys have any advice to give, please leave in the comment boxes below. Thank you.
  16. Hey all, Had a horrible summer... bike was on the fritz non-stop. burned battery, ignition cylinder out of commission etc.. due to lack of time had to get the bike into the shop and they got it running.. then it burned another batery and stranded me at canadian-american border. misery. i even thought of selling it... (horrible). well, yesterday i went into the bike and was looking over it, and noticed that one of my spark plug wires has been nicked and the casing is damaged. i turned the bike on, ran my hand near the damaged wire and got a hell of a shock. it all made sense all at once! all the electrical gremlin-ness was probably coming from this wire intermittently shorting. my question here is, what is a good replacement for these? OEM? or is there a better option? Also, while i'm at it, should i just replace all the spark plug wires, all the spark plug boots, and the ignition coils? they're most likely original and 22 yrs old (!) any suggestions are appreciated! here's a little shot of it just for the hell of it! BIG upgrade in the Corbin, courtesy of Rob from Riverside - thank you sir! cheers.
  17. Hello Friends! This is my first post but I have been reading this forum for years. I'm not sure why it took me so long to join, but I need your help now! ISSUE: My 10A fuse that houses my "METER,TAIL ILLUM,STOP" keeps blowing while riding. I will lose my dash, headlights and break lights. I can be going smoothly along at 25 mph and it will blow. The local bike shop can't figure out why, but they have replaced my R/R and have verified that my new R/R is working still and my battery is good. I have not been able to put any science to this and have tried reproducing the issue while the bike is running and parked by wiggling wires and bouncing the bike up and down. It seems to only happen when riding. FINDINGS: After 2 unsuccessful trips to the local repair shop, I have decided to try my hand at motorcycle electrical troubleshooting. I popped the seat off and started pulling plugs and found that my Starter solenoid connector is melting, just like everyone else with a VFR. Next Steps: I plan on getting some cleaning these connections with some electrical spray cleaner and coating them with Ox Gard in the short term. I expect I will also need to replace this red cap and maybe the starter solenoid. Maybe a VFRness?? Questions: Do I need to replace the red plug AND starter solenoid? Will the VFRness prevent this from happening again? Thanks! Dane
  18. Hi all! I just acquired a 2004 VFR800 (non ABS) with 29,000 miles on it. All was well for about 200 miles, and then it died. The person riding in front of me said that the headlights started getting dimmer and dimmer and then went out just shortly before I lost power. I got the bike home (fortunately only ~70 miles from home), and started diagnosing. The PO was not sure whether the RR or stator has ever been replaced. The battery was replaced in the past year or two with a Battery Tender Lithium Ion battery. The battery was dead, so I charged that. When I started testing, it was sitting at 13.14V. Checked again this morning, and it's sitting at 13.13V so the battery seems to be OK. I tested everything and concluded that I had zero charging going on but it seems like the stator is OK(?). In the process of testing, I found that the connections between the stator and RR had overheated and were likely non-conductive. The char looks recent so I suspect they melted/charred during my ride. I rewired the connectors and tested again. Results: First test (before rewiring, with low beams on): IGN Bike Measured Reading OFF OFF BAT - + 13.14V ON OFF BAT - + 12.78V ON IDLE BAT - + 13.00V (rising) ON 2500RPM BAT - + 12.50V (falling) ON 5000RPM BAT - + 12.50V (falling) Stator tests: Impedance between phases: AB ~1ohm, AC ~1ohm, BC ~.9ohm Impedance to ground: A->G infinte, B->G infinite, C->G infinite AC Voltage: IDLE AB 24.2 AC 24.5 BC 23.9 5K AB 64.5 AC 64.5 BC 65 After replacing yellow stator connections (low beams on): ON IDLE BAT - + 13.20V (rising) ON 2500RPM BAT - + 13.45V (rising) ON 5000RPM BAT - + 13.58V (rising) A few notes: For the impedance tests, the ohmmeter that I am using is not close to instantaneous. When I put the leads directly against one another it rapidly declines from 200ohm to 5 then 3 then 2 then 1.5 then 1.4 then 1.3 and so on. With each downward tick it takes longer (from 200-1.5 takes a second or two, then it takes a few seconds from 1.5 to 1.0, and then approximately ten seconds per 0.1 tick beyond that. I suspect that the stator impedances are lower than 1.0 or 0.9, but I either need a new meter or to be dramatically more patient waiting for it to settle. For the "rising" and "falling" statements, once the voltmeter settled on a voltage (which is fairly instantaneous), I am stating that the voltage is slowly ticking upward or downward. Over the course of 30 seconds at a particular RPM, I would se a rise or fall of approximately 0.15-0.50 volts. There are no electrical accessories on the bike. After fixing the stator->RR connections, when I ran the 5k RPM voltage test I saw the 30A fuse wire start smoking and it was quite hot to the touch. All of that leads me to some questions: Is there anything about a lithium ion battery that would result in me not seeing a higher voltage across the terminals? I've never dealt with a lithium ion battery in a car/bike before so want to make sure that I should expect the same testing behavior as I would a conventional battery. At this point I am planning to rewire the bike (mirroring a VFRness) or order a VFRness and install that. Also, following my tests, I'm going to rewire my crimp connectors (stator<-->RR) with soldered connections. Should I go ahead and order a RR at this point too or do my results seem potentially within the realm of "normal" for overheated/deteriorated wiring? Should I get the wiring squared away, test again, and then decide whether to acquire an RR? In general are the failures frequent enough that I should just keep a spare RR on hand (or on the bike when I'm on trips)? Is there an expected lifespan for a Honda OEM RR? Does 29k miles make it "due" for replacement? Am I way off base on anything I've said that I need to be corrected on? Thank you in advance!
  19. My 02 VFR seems to have stopped charging the battery as I only see ~11.8V or so at whatever engine speed. I've had the recall for the wiring harness performed and don't seem to experience any other issues while the bike is running on purely the new battery I just installed. My reading here seems to point to either the voltage regulator/rectifier or the stator itself. Has anyone here diagnosed this set of symptoms recently they'd care to share?
  20. Hi everyone, I recently connected a 12v socket and a USB charging socket to the VFR. It got me thinking about electrical stuff again. I love switches and guages, the more the better, so what have you got on yours? I added an LED voltmeter to my dash but apart from that it is fairly stock. Here is a pic. You can see the voltmeter to the left of the neutral light: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V8Vxif9AVyA/VGky-bMy9LI/AAAAAAAAQ3Q/1P6kGGkepog/w624-h832-no/IMG_20141116_154912.jpg I have my heated grip box located just below and to the left of the ignition then. For me, the more switches or guages there are, the better! I think I could do more! What have you got?
  21. Newb Voltage Monitor Question

    Whats up guys! Newb question here, I figured I'd ask now before i ruin a fairing haha I picked up a Signal Dynamics Heads Up Voltage Monitor which i installed in my dash; this specific monitor comes with a micro processor- -my question is does anyone know if that processor gets hot? Too hot to mount to the back of a fairing? If you look at the pic below you can see that I mounted it kinda above my radiator cap (not directly, its off to the side a bit - you get the idea). Its taped to the backside of the fairing - you can see the two wire covers that kinda merge right next to the fuse box, that is where the processor is mounted.. I just stuck it there for a test fit, but I started thinking if that thing gets hot it could potentially ruin the paint. Since I know these fairings are worth an arm-n-a-leg; and mine are in decent shape I definitely don't wanna ruin them. The processor actually has heat-sinks on the side, but I don't know just how hot it really gets. I was actually a super-easy install, and it looks pretty good if ya ask me! Sorry for the horrible pic, I'll include a good one in a bit. Thanks for any input!!!!!!!!
  22. No Sparks In Ignition Coil

    Hello every one sorry for my poor english I bought a vfr750f 1987 3 month ago,it was dissassmbled and the engine was off for about a year.no spark unit no ometers then I bought the spark unit from ebay and installed the wiring. ignition switch,clutch switch and nutral indicator works the the engine starts but it wont spark how can I make this engine run I want to use in on a buggy
  23. Looking for some troubleshooting guidance for my 2003 VFR800A that does not want to start. Situation: With a Fully charged battery 1. Turn bike to ON - Lights come on, Fuel pump primes 2. Hit starter - I hear the relay click, lights go out, clock resets. Starter does not turn. Additional notes: the bike has a VFRNess that has been installed for over a year, with no known issues before that. The battery is brand new - I replaced it when I first had issues (see below), and has been fully charged using a known good smart-charger. Problems first arrived when I came out of work to experience the issue above. I was able to bump start the bike to get home. Charged the battery, same problem. Replaced the battery, charged the battery, Same problem. I'm getting ready to pull the fairings to check all wires connectors, voltages, etc. as outlined int he several exhaustive electrical threads here. Can anyone help me to prioritize the work? Is the behavior above indicative of a known issue? I appreciate the support. ~Brian
  24. Hi folks, First, if I'm overlooking an obvious thread or online source, please point me to it. I need to replace the left-hand switchgear unit for my US-model 1994 VFR750F - a 4th gen. (The local mechanic confirmed my initial prognosis - that's why my turn signals don't work.) However, the local shop also told me that part is discontinued / unavailable. I am checking on a couple of used parts on ebay. However, if one of those does not pan out, is there another year and/or model with a compatible left-hand switchgear pod for a 4th gen? Thanks! Ron
  25. A while back, I bought the VFRness for my 6th gen and it's been great. I bought the bundled pack to get the fuse block. I figured I'd install it later. It's been a year I'd like to fix that! I popped off the seat (I have a Sargent) but I have no idea where to mount this thing. Does anyone have any pictures on where they put theirs? I did a search but only found 5th gens.
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