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Found 97 results

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  1. I've been thinking that the New Members section of the forum is perhaps not the best place to keep my hybrid conversion and restoration thread updated, so I have decided to move it here instead. Here's the background for anyone who hasn't seen it yet:
  2. It's a bit premature, but a fellow is showing interest in buying my 2000 VFR800, but...he's not interested in buying the bike with the suspension goodies on it. If he contacts me he's good to go with the sale, then I'll be pulling off the parts and installing the OEM items. What I'd like to know if anyone would be interested in a Traxxion-Dynamics cartridge kit with 1.03 Kg/mm springs and a Penske 8983 rear shock (currently with 1300 Lb/inch spring)? The fork cartridge kit allow full range of adjustment (preload, compression, and rebound). The Penske 8983 shock I'm sure most people know what it's about. If he pulls the trigger on the bike, I'll be posting them in the classifieds eventually, but it would be nice to find a good home for them as I won't be needing them afterwards.
  3. Hi Everyone! Apologies for first post being here. I looked everywhere for an "intro" section and didn't see one. Now that my daily driver bike is out of storage, the N+1 bug hit me hard. I really like twins (parallel, V, or boxer- I'm equal opportunity) and v4's. The sound of a v4 is heaven! Since I haven't won the lottery or been promoted to CEO at my job being able to buy an RSV4 is out of the question and the better half's response to a new one is "you already have a bike, why do you need another payment?" So, I returned to looking at the 5th and 6th gen vfr as a coworker had one and loved it. One came up in the classifieds- a 5th gen- at a price point where I can spend zero time on the couch after purchase :) and I want to go in as aware as I can of things to look for so I can make a fair offer. I know sometimes there is a fine line between a useful mod and molesting the bike so I am asking for some help on things to look for that might be red flags to pass on the bike. I've been googilng and trying to get as much information as I can in my brain from this and other sites so I can make an informed decision, but I keep getting side tracked in race builds, restoration threads, front end and swingarm swaps, PC III vs PC V, and other fun topics. If anyone would be willing to help a noob both to this forum and to VFR's I would be grateful. My biggest concern is buying something where someone did a delete of something related to emissions but botched it then the next owner hacked the electrical, then the next one did something else, etc., and I wind up in a money pit (which I wouldn't mind if I knew going in so i could adjust my offer). Thanks!
  4. I'm new to the forum but I've already received some amazing tips re: mods. I just purchased own a Y2K 5th gen CA bike with only 11K miles that is 100% stock. Next week, I'm taking delivery of a '99 5th gen from FLA (49 state) that has 44K miles and loads of rare aftermarket bits. My plan is to swap performance/ ergo parts onto the low mileage CA bike, then re-sell the donor bike as stock. I have read that 49 State bikes have a few key differences namely cams, ECU and no O2, cats, etc. Since my plan is to sell the donor bike with stock parts, would swapping the ECU, cams, headers be worth the time/ effort? Guessing it would only effect power/ torque slightly, but better for fine tuning via PCIII. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. Pics of my Y2K:
  5. Hello, I have lurked on the forums for a while, but now I am in need of help. The front drive sprocket bolt will not budge. I have tried my air impact wrench (it's a cheap model, but I expect this would have some effect), and also long bar, but using the long bar the head is starting to round off. I tried penetrating oil but looking at the diagram I don't think it will work into the threads. I did try to use a blow torch on to heat it but a lot of smoke came off, which is either from the chain cover, but since seeing the diagram I think I may be melting the transmission seal behind-can this seal be replaced without removing the transmission shaft? Should I continue to heat it, or will it need to be drilled. I haven't drilled a bolt before and am worried about damaging the threads, since a new transmission shaft is costly and long repair. Oh and when trying to undo the bolt the rear wheel was moving when I applied the rear brake fully, is that normal? I have the spare pads but wanted to do the sprockets/chain first. Thanks in advance.
  6. Hey all, just got my second VFR last Saturday. I'm on the east coast in nyc, so I haven't ridden it more than two blocks yet. My first VFR was a 1987 700F, and before that I had a Ninja 500 as my starter bike. As I begin to prepare the bike for a new season of riding I have discovered an electrical outlet on the bike that I am not familiar with below the rear fairing. Anyone know what this is? It is about 1/2 the size of an automotive aux jack.
  7. Still get Thurn's newletter, so here the news that +23mm bar risers are available for the 3rd/4th Gen RC36 (1990-1997). As well as 5th gen RC46 (1998-2001) and 6th gen VFR 800 V-Tec, RC46/2 (2002-2012) for which he already had obtained TÜV approval previously. No need for longer hydraulic lines or modifying the upper cowl. Tince the forks themselves are angled, the bars will also slightly come a bit more towards you. Price is 79 euro + shipping (a copy of the TÜV document is +49; but you'd only perhaps need this if you are in Germany) info@thurn-motorsport.de ++ 49 9352 6734 PS: I donot hold any shares or bonus scheme with Gerhard :-)
  8. I am looking to replace all the coolant hoses due to an increasing leak. Along with the thermostat o-ring as long as I'm in there. Looks like I need to remove the throttle body to get to the thermostat and at least one of the hoses. The service manual says to disconnect the fuel lines from the tank, something I'd rather not do that, and it looks like I can just pivot it out of the way, and rest it on a bench or something I bring up right next to the bike while swapping hoses. My final concern is likely unfounded, as the manual doesn't mention it, but there isn't any need to re-synch anything as long as I don't mess with the painted bolts, is there?
  9. Hi all, I've been a skulking around here for two years now, but as of Sunday I am now the proud owner of a '98 VFR800Fi in red. I originally became interested in the VFRs after riding a friends 6th gen and enjoying the relative comfort and easy riding characteristics compared with my '12 ZX6R. At 6'2" I was getting sick of folding myself onto a supersport bike for commuting, and couldn't bring myself to tour on it as rides longer than 2 hours would do a number on my back and knees. Once I realised I wanted something more comfortable for the road, I almost immediately sold the ZX6R while the value was still good. This was over a year ago now, and while I'd do it over again the same, I have sorely missed being on two wheels. I had initially planned on picking up another bike fairly soon after selling, but life (2 kids) and a new job working remotely from home pushed the bike down the financial priority list of the Minister for War and Finance. Still, the VFR bug had settled in for the long haul, and I found myself lurking around here and wishing for a V4 to call my own. About a week ago, while trawling through bikesales.com wishing for a bike I saw an ad for a '98 VFR800Fi that had done 87000 odd kilometres, and was listed for $4000 Aussie pesos. This immediately piqued my interest as it was the sort of money I might be able to wrangle from the ironclad jaws of the aforementioned Minister for War and Finance (hereafter known as the MWF), and through my lurking I had grown rather fond of the 5th gen Viffer. The previous owner had owned it for roughly 12 months, and in preparation for selling it had it fairly extensively serviced. The main points from the service report were all fluids flushed and replaced and new break pads. In addition to this, he had replaced the front fork seals when he purchased the bike. I organised to have a look and a ride, and was immediately impressed with how good the bike looked for it's age. If it's been crashed (apparently not), then they have done an excellent job fixing it, as there is very little in terms of marking to the frame, engine covers and fairings. The bike has clearly been garaged, as there is little to no fading of the paint or plastics. Upon starting it, I was immediately in love with the noise, from the V4 growl to the whir of the cam gears. Speaking of noise, the bike is fitted with a Remus slip-on. It also came with the stock muffler, but I can't imagine that'll do much other than sit in the garage. I rode it around the block, and immediately purchased it upon returning. Well, after talking him down to $3500 that is. I also scored a lambskin cover for the seat and more importantly, the rear solo cowl. It was fitted with a Ventura bag rack, but that came off and the solo cowl was applied as soon as I got it home. It is also fitted with some brand of touring screen (the name escapes me at the moment, and I can't be bothered leaving the warm study to go check in the cold garage) which doesn't seem to do much for wind deflection, so I'll be replacing it. Having ridden it for the past 3 days, I have immediately lost control and started ordering bits and pieces to begin the inevitable process of tweaking to my liking. The current list of bits on order is as follows: - Honda Marine Volt Meter - 37453-ZW5-000ZA (being well aware from my skulking that the electrics will keep me busy, seemed a good place to start. Not sure where I'm going to mount it yet, and I still need a relay, wires and the like). - Zero Gravity Double Bubble in Light Smoke (being in Aus this is going to take 6 - 8 weeks as the local distributor didn't have stock). - Honda Tank Pad - 08P61-MCS-800. - 2 small clips that hold the battery cover closed - 91549-MW0-790ZA (the originals were conspicuously absent). Needless to say, my wife is not pleased. The list of things to do in the near future: - New tires (the current ones are nearly at the wear bars, and I'm fairly certain the rear has a slow leak). - As I'll have the tires off, I'm seriously considering having the wheels stripped and powdercoated. Out of the entire bike they are showing the wear of their years the most, with numerous nicks from gravel and the like. - Tank grips. Not sure which brand yet. There are some nameless generic things on the bike currently, but their positioning is awful and they are too small to be of much use. - Helibars. This is probably more long term, because in Aussie pesos they are roughly $500 from the local distributor, which is going to be hard to sell to the MWF. Long term, the main points I've noted so far: - Suspension. After coming from a sports bike, this is by far the most notable difference that I'd like to rectify. I'm not expecting to turn the bike into a supersport machine, but I'd at least like it to be better than stock, which is not providing me much confidence at this early stage. - New seat. Gonna be expensive it seems, but I am not liking the lack of grip with the stock seat, and it is leaving my ass numb as quickly if not quicker than the ZX6R's laughable attempt at somewhere comfortable to sit. Well, it seems my typing is like my talking, I go on and on and on an.... I'll sign of for now by saying that I am really looking forward to getting to know my new baby better, both by riding and fiddling. The community here seems really strong, and I'm looking forward also to becoming more involved now that I have something to talk about. I'm always open to suggestions, so don't be afraid to give them! Cheers (ps, sorry the pics are boring, snapped a couple while parked in the city and haven't gotten around to taking any more just yet.)
  10. I’ve been collecting parts working towards a 5th gen track bike for a year or more, when I realized I basically had a whole motorcycle mailed/shipped to my house… the UPS guy even started bringing the boxes into my garage and setting them next to my tool box when the door was open and I was busy! The engine was the only thing delivered to my local MC shop, Dave Clark’s Forever Endeavor Motorcycle Shop; where the LTL driver left the little pallet on the sidewalk and Dave and I lifted it into the back of my car (would have cost an extra couple hundred to deliver to a residence as opposed to business). Yes, I know… I’m not a neat freak. The Y2K is fully functional, just boxed in for the moment. I’m doing this project because I love to work on machines, to fix, to improve, to mod/farkle/personalize… my old boss called me a tinkerer ‘cause I can’t leave things alone. To the critics, I know I’m not smarter than the engineers that originally built this bike… save your comments. I’m making a more specialized bike built around the motor I love. I have my Y2K, which is in my opinion, the best all-around bike for me. My intent is to make this bike lighter, faster, and better handling for track work and I hope to fab in the ability to quickly pull lights and replace with track parts so I can register it and make it street legal… maybe shoot for 80%track/20%street set-up. I’m leaning towards modeling it after the RC45s that were campaigned in the endurance races in the last half of the ‘90s. Something like this… Not an endurance model, but this is my favorite bodywork style… I wouldn’t attempt to do this project without all the previous work of others on this fabulous forum… HS, BR, Veefer, Seb, JD, BLS, Dutchy, TTC, KGS, RangerScott, CodeRighter, aa, Gil, V4, Mohawk, CRRC, HighSideNZ, Kyle, xRoYz, it is a very long list… I know I missed many names of those who have contributed to the knowledge base and please know that I appreciate every technical & entertaining morsel… I Thank You All!!! Because of VFRD… I can reach so high because I’m standing on the shoulders of giants… let’s hope I don’t fall flat on my face This is where we start… I made a conscious effort to buy inexpensive parts from wrecked bikes from established brick & mortar salvage yards, not perfect parts from possibly stolen, chop-shop bikes… yes, they could have been stolen and then wrecked, but at least they went to a registered salvage yard after the insurance auction… plus, it recycles and gives them a second chance… and collectively the bike will have been in like a dozen accidents… what are the odds it could crash again? It’s been pre-crashed for me Shopping list (work in progress, I’ll update shortly with parts and prices): The heart of the wee little beastie… That rashed & cracked clutch cover made its way into the skilled hands of Seb to become a piece of functional art that will grace my Y2K as soon as the satin black engine paint dries… The cover from my Y2k will be grafted onto the track bike adding a little piece of me to the build… Stripped of parts not being used, e.g. coils, throttle bodies (which, BTW… required the administration of a short section of 2x4 angled up underneath and coaxed with a 5# sledge to separate), aforementioned clutch cover, center stand, 5th gen lower cushion replaced with 6th gen. Y2K frame (with title), 2009 throttle bodies, CBR954 swing arm and shock (to be sold, 929 shock to be installed) ZX14 front end… for some reason I thought it was a Showa front end when I bought it at a screamin’ good deal (still had the grass clump wedged in the right rotor… bent rotor replaced), turns out it is a KYB… oh well, I was hoping to keep it Honda-ish. Forks are 745mm from axle center to bottom of top cap so I should get good ride height and clearance with the CBR929 triples and the CBR1000 clip-ons bolted underneath. Two problems with the 929 triples… getting the lower bearing race off to replace with my All Balls roller bearings; and every steering stem I found has the same smashed damaged threads on the lower, wider threaded section… First, the lower bearing race… pry a little with a flat metal scraper under the seal to expose a little room… Break out the cold chisel and carefully encourage it to rise up and get off… The threads required a tool purchase and little cleaning up… There was not a lot of meat to work with… I hope these threads are damaged due to other mechanical wear and not necessary for providing significant holding force… Has anyone else seen this wear pattern on the 929 triples? All the photos of used triples I saw showed the same pattern… EDIT NOTE: On advice from counsel I will be seeking a different solution to the steering stem issue and will not use this one due to potential safety issues. I believe the 929 steering stem length measured 225mm and when I snaked a tape down alongside my Y2K’s steering head it appeared the 5th gen VFR was right around the same length… if anyone has a 5th gen lower triple out and available for steering stem length measurement I would appreciate a confirm on that (not that I want to compare lengths, Dutchy…) as I’m planning on pressing my bearings on this weekend and the measurement would help me on deciding on the need to shim or not… hope all y’all don’t mind if I solicit your help along the way… Old bearing races in the frame headstock needed to come out… That’s stretch wrap still protecting the frame, not metal damage… frame was the cleanest part I received even though it has a salvage title. Most everything else required elbow grease or pressure washer… To pop the races out you can see the back edge of the race when you look through the headstock… a drift or long straight slot screwdriver, tap lightly, moving back and forth 180* to walk it out of its seat without distorting the frame seat… Froze the new races to shrink them and drove them in with a seal driver, 6 bolts and the frame is on... sorry, forgot pics End of day #1…
  11. So riding my new to me 5th gen for the first real road test battery went dead......Need to know how to go about repairing charging system. I am sure there is a topic already started on this but looked for a long time and did not find what I was looking for. I know the the 5th gens have an issue with the rectifier but how do I test it and how do I fix this issue, my first 5th gen I put 56,000 miles on and never had a issue outside of replacing a battery. I need to get this fixed asap. So if any of you fine people out there can kindly show me the way that would be GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you in advance
  12. Scope of this question for the collective VFRD research staff is for 98/99 bikes. I saw a thread somewhere about the UK ECU yielding 10 more HP than the US ECU and another thread suggesting that California bikes were handicapped a further 5-10 HP (ecu and/or cams). Then I saw a UK ECU on ebay for 35 euros but it just seems too good to be true (spend 50 bucks to pick up 15-20 hp). Anybody have insight into attempts along these lines? Do the UK bikes really have more HP than the US bikes? Do the CA bikes really have less HP than the other states? Do the CA bikes really have different cams than the other states?
  13. Since my PCIII had gone dead - I moved to PCV. Imported the existing maps from PC III into PC V - and the bike RUNS LIKE CRAP AT LOW RPM's, surging at low rpms etc. Issues seems to be around the 2000/300 rpm with 15/20% throttle range. Even with Zero maps the bike seems to have the same problem. Looks like a dead investment at this point. Anyone facing similar issues or fixes.
  14. View File 5th Gen PCII & PCIII maps Some of these I pulled from the Power Commander site. For the files that are corrupt on that site I searched the net and found the missing files on some old plain .html personal blogs such as: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stu.tyrrell/PowerCommanderMaps.htm Note that some of the PCII files have modified ignition. Make sure and critically analyze any map before implementing it! I have nothing to do with these maps except that I searched for them and posted them here. - Knight Submitter Knight Submitted 05/12/2016 Category Power Commander Maps  
  15. Are there any inexpensive Honda parts bin rearsets that will fit a 6th gen lower engine cushion? I.e. CBR 929/954/1000 RC51 etc. I'm trying to build a 5th gen track bike and I'm considering a 6th gen cushion to allow me some options with the rear sets. I want to go 1 up, 5 down on the shift pattern. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks....
  16. I recently had the misfortune to lowside my previously mint 1999 VFR800. I hit a patch of spilled oil or diesel, and went down hard on the right side, probably at around 60 mph. ATGATT saved my hide and aside from bruised ribs I'm untouched, but the same can't be said of the bike. I thought I would post my experiences with getting the bike back to something like its former glory. If you are interested, read on. The damage was mainly confined to the fairings, the top fairing and right side fairing bore the brunt of the slide, and it looks like my leg smacked the tail fairing as it has two clean breaks but no rash. My cheap Chinese brake lever bent a little but was OK to use on the painful 30 mile ride home. The right bar end was mashed up a little, and the right bar has rotated on the fork leg and dented the tank slightly (bugger).The right mirror was ground through and full of gravel, but the lens was unbroken. The foot brake pedal bent back, and the rider footpeg snapped clean off but the peg hanger is fine. I rode home with my heel jammed on top of the swingarm pivot end. The pillion peg took a lot of the rear load, and the peg carrier has been ground a little on it's end. The Delkevic muffler has a light graze on the endcap but was otherwise mostly fine (which was a surprise). The only other damage was the pillion grab rail which got a little rash on the load hook. I'm realistic that I own a 91000km bike that is 16 years old, that I paid about US2600 for last year, so I don't want to overspend on the repair. Looks like I can get most OEM parts if I want to shell out the big numbers. I have ordered the OEM brake pedal the fairing mounts through Partzillla and was pleasantly surprised at the reasonable shipping cost to me in New Zealand. The brake pedal delivered worked out to about 60% of the locally quoted price from my Honda dealer. I'm keen to support local businesses, but they need to be closer than that. Delivery was 3 weeks ex Japan, so no benefit there. I let my eBay fingers do the walking, and have ordered up replica rider and pillion footpegs, mirrors, and clear indicator lenses. I put the OEM brake lever and bar end back on, so once I get the ordered bits I'll be rolling again, which just leaves the fairings.
  17. First it was my clutch switch, now this. I'm assuming i'll just need to disassemble and clean the kill-switch assembly, right? Symptoms: Any touching AT ALL of the kill-switch cuts the engine, even pushing it down to on, while on. Will occasionally cut the engine and the FI light comes on - Have to turn the bike off for 30+ seconds to resolve this. If kill-switch is used; FI light comes on as above.
  18. Just pick up 2000 yellow 5th gen, I had the same bike a few years back and it wasn't a California model. Noticed a tank on the front of the engine that wasn't on my old bike and was wondering if one can take that stuff off the bike, also noticed that the California model has a lot more weight on it, would like to make that go away.... Thanks for any input.....
  19. Annoyingly enough I managed to finally get that Two Brothers Exhaust of my VFR just to find out that with it I managed to pull a part of the manifold with it. I checked it afterwards and it looks like it is rotted right through. While there are new delkevic systems out there I need to count my bucks as I also need to get my front rim fixed, chain sprockets, rubber, and exhaust... *sigh* I like my VFR and can't wait to ride but she sure is putting up a fight. If anyone has a working Manifold Set and wants to get rid of it I would gladly take it :) Thanks Phil
  20. From the album Terry's V4s

    Bought some bent VTR forks to use as a source of rebound adjusters. A very easy and satisfying swap.
  21. From the album MadScientist's Gallery

  22. From the album MadScientist's Gallery

  23. Hey guys, the clutch lever on my '98 5th Gen is suddenly feeling different immediately after I picked it up from a laydown on the grass. Went wide in a parking lot turn after hitting an edge trap, and it just slipped out from under me and plopped onto it's left (clutch lever) side. Wasn't very hard or violent, just some shallow whtie scratches on the left fairing. But the clutch lever, which looks totally fine and undamaged to my eye, felt much weaker. It takes much less effort to pull it in, until the last 1/4 of pull when it's at the handlebar, which is also the same place the friction zone has now moved to. It used to be the clutch would engage as I let the clutch lever nearly totally out. say 3/4 all the way out. Now that friction zone of the clutch is right next to the handlebar/grip, and the rest of the clutch travel is noticablly weak. It works, I rode it the few blocks home but it worries me that the friction zone suddenly moved. What could the problem be? 1. The clutch fluid is murky/brownish (although according to owner it was replaced last season), I've been told to replace it so maybe that has something to do with it? 2. Maybe some of the air in the fluid resoivour on the grip got into the piston or fluid line to the clutch when it was tipped over and the fluid was sloshing aroudn not where it normally is? 3. When the bike did drop I somehow accidently gave it a big rev before immediately shutting it off. Probably happened when the wheel lifted into the air (adrenaline of dropping the bike clouds my memories, you guys know how it is). Could that very short hi reving have cooked the cluth somehow? 4. Lastly there is an adjuster wheel on the clutch lever. I've played with it and it doesn't seem to have helped but maybe the drop somehow moved that? Thanks for any adivce or tips, I badly need it!! - Josh
  24. From the album My 2001 VFR800