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Found 105 results

  1. I replaced the original OEM regulator/rectifier [r/r] on my 2001 5th gen with a Shindengen SH847 series-style r/r from roadstercycle.com. There were no problems evident with my elecrical system, but with 48,595 miles on my old[ish] VFR, I might be on borrowed time with the all-original wiring, stator and r/r. I read through the pinned threads on the vfrd electrical forum: 'stator tests', 'electrical upgrade', and 'tips and tricks' - thanks to everyone who contributed their advice and experiences to these informative threads. Thanks to Duc2V4 for his guidance and for introducing me to roadstercycle.com and introducing me to Jack, the craftsman behind the roadstercycle website. Special thanks to Jack for his excellent suggestions, products, service, and for showing me his amazing shop and machines. Readings before beginning project: 12.9v on the battery with ignition switch off 0.8-0.9ohms across all three stator legs when disconnected from r/r [my meter reads 0.6ohms when I short the two probes together] No continuity from any stator leg to ground 19-20v on all three stator legs at 1200rpm idle [engine temp 174F] 61-63v on all three stator legs at 5000rpm I neglected to check battery voltages with engine running before I began I used this nifty $20 voltmeter [It also has two USB charging ports] from ebay for continuous battery voltage display - plugged it into my always-on steering stem power outlet. I compared it to my multi-meter, and they displayed the same voltages: Here is the original OEM r/r with leads disconnected: The connectors on the cables coming from the stock r/r didn't look bad, though the connector on the stator wires was a bit discolored: The series-type SH847 is $50.00 more than the popular mosfet SH020AA, but operates on demand instead of constantly, runs even cooler than mosfet, and has a 50 amp capacity. I went with it because I've been doing track days and don't want to challenge the r/r if I have to unplug the lights before taping them over [the headlights melt through polyethylene tape if you leave them on after you tape them over - ask me how I know]. The SH847 connectors are built onto the r/r. Roadstercycle sells the SH847 as a kit and makes up the connectors/cables for the battery and stator leads from 10 gauge marine grade wire: The SH847 is a physically larger unit - here it is next to the stock r/r: Before purchasing, I made an actual size mockup and taped it in place to test fit it under the rear cowl in the stock r/r location. It would have efficient cable routing and clear the cowl and passenger rear set assembly if oriented with the connectors facing forward, which would mean the cooling fins would be perpendicular to airflow as I perceived it. Jack said the series-type and mosfet Shindengen r/r's don't care about airflow direction: After visiting roadstercycle.com, receiving an education and a tour from Jack, then picking up r/r kits for my bike and for member Hammerdrill's 's 6th gen, I fit the SH847 in place, mapped out its location, and marked where to drill the top mounting hole [Yes, I cleaned up the hole with a rat tail file after drilling]: This left the new r/r's bottom mounting hole just below the bottom rail of the subframe. I hate mixing SAE and metric fasteners [I never know if I'll remember the right size tools later], but my best mounting solution was the threaded endpiece of this 1/4-20 draw bolt. I used the threaded piece to grab the subframe from underneath by threading it onto a bolt running through the r/r's bottom mounting hole: I cut a 1/4-20 flange bolt short enough that it wouldn't grind into the plastic fender behind the subframe, cut the bottom rear corner off the threaded draw bolt piece so it could clear the fender when pivoted up to grab the subframe securely, then loctited the threads and cinched it all up with stainless washers between the mounting bolts and the r/r: Roadstercycle's kit comes with finished battery cables. I asked for 11" battery cables, but Jack wisely recommended 12" lengths. I'm glad he did, because they fit like this [The nearest black and red cables in this photo are the leads from the new r/r and the red fixture on the left with two bumps on it is the 30amp circuit breaker that Jack builds into the kit]: Per the instructions, I taped off the now unused connector that ran from the wire harness to the old r/r and fastened it out of the way: The kit comes with 18" stator cables, solder-on sleeves, and crimp connectors - you choose whichever connector you prefer. I cut the stator cables to length using cable cutters. I like actual cable cutters for stranded cable because they cut the strands from four different directions so the strands don't get crushed and spread apart between the two blades of regular wire cutters or dikes. Next was to solder on the sleeves, followed by completely forgetting to take photos of the cables in my solder jig, but there's not much there to imagine. Roadstercycle has a good video on how to solder connectors. Just before heating the last piece of shrinkwrap onto the last finished stator connection, I remembered to take a photo: That's it. My final electrical readings are all the same - I didn't change out the stator or battery. I finally took battery readings with the engine running and got 13.3v at 1200rpm idle, 14.5v at 5000rpm.
  2. VFR800F_ghost2.jpg

    From the album help

    ghost VFR800F at launch in 1998
  3. VFR800F_ghost1.jpg

    From the album help

    ghost VFR800F 5th gen at launch in 1998
  4. Hi all, This has long been my go-to VFR resource. I'm the proud owner of my third 5th gen pearl shining yellow VFR800FiX (and there can only be a handful in all of Ireland!). With the exception of an enjoyable foray into Kawasaki ownership with a 2005 ZX6R, I've been served exclusively by VFR's. Anywho, hoping you good folks here can help me with a query I have. The bike is an X model (confirmed with the underseat sticker, so 99 model year), is 2001 registered (not too unusual I guess, slow moving dealer stock?), and has the original catalytic converter stickers on it's bodywork (the units themselves not being present as it has a full stainless system with a hi level carbon can). It was my understanding that only later model VFR800's had a cat, from at least the Y model on, am I right? It has the manual choke/fast idle lever. This nagging doubt in my mind has me thinking of all sorts of potential horror stories - to my reasonably well trained eye it's not a Frankenstein's monster of a bike, previously crashed or cobbled together, it's in fantastic condition and rides brilliantly, doesn't have suspiciously low mileage, etc. Pic shows the stickers on the tail section. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  5. I guess there was a guy taking photos when I was out on the track at the Ridge motorsports park
  6. Class Reunion

    It has been a very busy year and I haven't had time until this past weekend to roll all of the VFRs out for a class reunion picture. It was a gorgeous day out anyways, so why not snap some pics before heading out on a ride? The red 5th gen is an 2001 with about 5,800 miles, purchased in 2012 from the original owner and he only had 750 odd miles on the bike. It was all stock minus a Two Bros slip on that I swapped out for a Akropovic. Mostly, I have kept this bike original and stock with the exception of DMR front fork tuning, an Ohlins shock, stainless lines, the 98-99 cat less headers and updating the charging system. Oh and of course an 8 spoke wheel powdercoated black. The silver VFR is my "Gen 5.5 Hybrid"- basically the front half of a 5th gen VFR with gear driven cams (as they all should be), with the back half of a 6th gen with the OEM bag mounts and underseat exhaust. That makes it a bit easier to see the 8 spoke wheel. My bodywork guy also changed the headlight shape to mimic dual headlights and it really does bridge the gap between the odd single headlights that Honda was using in the late 90s (Superhawk, CBR 900, VFR) to the next generation in 2002 with the VTEC and dual headlights. There is a good picture showing the front of the bikes and how just the subtle change really altered the look of the front fairing. Originally, being 2000 model, it was yellow, and I planned on keeping it yellow. But when the tank needed to be swapped with a 6th gen to fit the new subframe and seat correctly, I found a brand new 2003(?) silver for $200. The silver looked great and I decided to go in that direction instead. This was my third VFR, and the project began because as much as I enjoy riding my '01 I didn't want to put a ton of miles on it and wanted to keep it mostly stock. So a second 5th gen was needed of course. The original owner had about 7,000 miles on it when he sold it to me in the fall of 2014. It was on the lift for over a year as a project and now has almost 12k miles on it. I am very happy with the way the project worked out, even if it was more expensive and more time/ stress consuming than originally planned. But what project isn't, right? The RWB Anniversary was my second VFR after I decided I loved my low mileage 5th gen so much that I wanted to keep the miles off of it, and have more of a sport touring platform for killing miles. It was purchased in the fall of 2013 with only 1500 miles on it from the original owner, who only added Heli bars and was getting out of riding. Besides having one of the best replica paint jobs ever IMHO, it has been a great bike overall and after adding quite a few "farkles" (especially swapping out the seat for a Saddlemen and the stock screen) is a very capable sport touring bike that I would still put up against the newer generations of ST bikes. The white wheels are a PITA to keep clean, but just look right. The stock wheels didn't look bad, but the white makes the bike look lighter. I am often asked which is my favorite. That's tough to answer, as each has its own strengths and weaknesses. If I had to sell any of them off, the 6th gen would go first, that's probably the best way to answer it. IMHO it just doesn't have the "soul" of the 5th gens, likely due to the VTEC and chain driven cams. Neither one of changes bother me particularly - I just personally prefer the feel and sound of the 5th gen motor and even the handling (not stock however). My wife told me the other day when I rolled them out that I have a "VFR problem". I said, "hell yes I do. I don't have a 1st gen, 2nd gen, 3rd gen, 4th gen or 8th gen VFR!!!" All kidding aside, there will be a 4th gen in the group someday. I have always loved their NR inspired look and NACA ducts. I had always drooled over the 3rd gens sitting next to the RC30 at the local Honda dealer, but the 4th generation was the first VFR that I ever rode. It sealed my insanity for them, even though I was married to Triumph at the time. The Sprint and Trophy were always too under-developed, overweight, crude and not as cool as the VFRs -to me at least. Triumph America borrowed a '96 VFR 750 from a local dealer for "testing" before the Sprint 955i was to be launched, and I think I alone put over 2,000 miles on it. Our then CEO ripped me a new one for riding it so much. Man was he pissed. Oh well, it was worth it...
  7. In the water

    Just so happened where I was walking back to the Viffer, I saw this angle of the viffer in the pool of water, so wondered if it would make for a decent photo, not being a fan of the cell phone photo ,had me wondering. I think it turned out ok.
  8. Guys, I recently bought a 5th gen RC46 VFR800. The bike's first registration was in 2000, but the bike was manufactured in 1999. How can I tell if it's a later or an earlier model? I'm asking, because frankly I prefer the earlier one - AFAIK the later one has a catalytic converter and oxygen sensors, stuff I can really do without.
  9. Hello, I have lurked on the forums for a while, but now I am in need of help. The front drive sprocket bolt will not budge. I have tried my air impact wrench (it's a cheap model, but I expect this would have some effect), and also long bar, but using the long bar the head is starting to round off. I tried penetrating oil but looking at the diagram I don't think it will work into the threads. I did try to use a blow torch on to heat it but a lot of smoke came off, which is either from the chain cover, but since seeing the diagram I think I may be melting the transmission seal behind-can this seal be replaced without removing the transmission shaft? Should I continue to heat it, or will it need to be drilled. I haven't drilled a bolt before and am worried about damaging the threads, since a new transmission shaft is costly and long repair. Oh and when trying to undo the bolt the rear wheel was moving when I applied the rear brake fully, is that normal? I have the spare pads but wanted to do the sprockets/chain first. Thanks in advance.
  10. Hi Everyone! Apologies for first post being here. I looked everywhere for an "intro" section and didn't see one. Now that my daily driver bike is out of storage, the N+1 bug hit me hard. I really like twins (parallel, V, or boxer- I'm equal opportunity) and v4's. The sound of a v4 is heaven! Since I haven't won the lottery or been promoted to CEO at my job being able to buy an RSV4 is out of the question and the better half's response to a new one is "you already have a bike, why do you need another payment?" So, I returned to looking at the 5th and 6th gen vfr as a coworker had one and loved it. One came up in the classifieds- a 5th gen- at a price point where I can spend zero time on the couch after purchase :) and I want to go in as aware as I can of things to look for so I can make a fair offer. I know sometimes there is a fine line between a useful mod and molesting the bike so I am asking for some help on things to look for that might be red flags to pass on the bike. I've been googilng and trying to get as much information as I can in my brain from this and other sites so I can make an informed decision, but I keep getting side tracked in race builds, restoration threads, front end and swingarm swaps, PC III vs PC V, and other fun topics. If anyone would be willing to help a noob both to this forum and to VFR's I would be grateful. My biggest concern is buying something where someone did a delete of something related to emissions but botched it then the next owner hacked the electrical, then the next one did something else, etc., and I wind up in a money pit (which I wouldn't mind if I knew going in so i could adjust my offer). Thanks!
  11. Hey all, just got my second VFR last Saturday. I'm on the east coast in nyc, so I haven't ridden it more than two blocks yet. My first VFR was a 1987 700F, and before that I had a Ninja 500 as my starter bike. As I begin to prepare the bike for a new season of riding I have discovered an electrical outlet on the bike that I am not familiar with below the rear fairing. Anyone know what this is? It is about 1/2 the size of an automotive aux jack.
  12. I'm new to the forum but I've already received some amazing tips re: mods. I just purchased own a Y2K 5th gen CA bike with only 11K miles that is 100% stock. Next week, I'm taking delivery of a '99 5th gen from FLA (49 state) that has 44K miles and loads of rare aftermarket bits. My plan is to swap performance/ ergo parts onto the low mileage CA bike, then re-sell the donor bike as stock. I have read that 49 State bikes have a few key differences namely cams, ECU and no O2, cats, etc. Since my plan is to sell the donor bike with stock parts, would swapping the ECU, cams, headers be worth the time/ effort? Guessing it would only effect power/ torque slightly, but better for fine tuning via PCIII. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. Pics of my Y2K:
  13. Bar risers from Germany

    Still get Thurn's newletter, so here the news that +23mm bar risers are available for the 3rd/4th Gen RC36 (1990-1997). As well as 5th gen RC46 (1998-2001) and 6th gen VFR 800 V-Tec, RC46/2 (2002-2012) for which he already had obtained TÜV approval previously. No need for longer hydraulic lines or modifying the upper cowl. Tince the forks themselves are angled, the bars will also slightly come a bit more towards you. Price is 79 euro + shipping (a copy of the TÜV document is +49; but you'd only perhaps need this if you are in Germany) info@thurn-motorsport.de ++ 49 9352 6734 PS: I donot hold any shares or bonus scheme with Gerhard :-)
  14. I've been thinking that the New Members section of the forum is perhaps not the best place to keep my hybrid conversion and restoration thread updated, so I have decided to move it here instead. Here's the background for anyone who hasn't seen it yet:
  15. Hello from Adelaide

    Hi all, I've been a skulking around here for two years now, but as of Sunday I am now the proud owner of a '98 VFR800Fi in red. I originally became interested in the VFRs after riding a friends 6th gen and enjoying the relative comfort and easy riding characteristics compared with my '12 ZX6R. At 6'2" I was getting sick of folding myself onto a supersport bike for commuting, and couldn't bring myself to tour on it as rides longer than 2 hours would do a number on my back and knees. Once I realised I wanted something more comfortable for the road, I almost immediately sold the ZX6R while the value was still good. This was over a year ago now, and while I'd do it over again the same, I have sorely missed being on two wheels. I had initially planned on picking up another bike fairly soon after selling, but life (2 kids) and a new job working remotely from home pushed the bike down the financial priority list of the Minister for War and Finance. Still, the VFR bug had settled in for the long haul, and I found myself lurking around here and wishing for a V4 to call my own. About a week ago, while trawling through bikesales.com wishing for a bike I saw an ad for a '98 VFR800Fi that had done 87000 odd kilometres, and was listed for $4000 Aussie pesos. This immediately piqued my interest as it was the sort of money I might be able to wrangle from the ironclad jaws of the aforementioned Minister for War and Finance (hereafter known as the MWF), and through my lurking I had grown rather fond of the 5th gen Viffer. The previous owner had owned it for roughly 12 months, and in preparation for selling it had it fairly extensively serviced. The main points from the service report were all fluids flushed and replaced and new break pads. In addition to this, he had replaced the front fork seals when he purchased the bike. I organised to have a look and a ride, and was immediately impressed with how good the bike looked for it's age. If it's been crashed (apparently not), then they have done an excellent job fixing it, as there is very little in terms of marking to the frame, engine covers and fairings. The bike has clearly been garaged, as there is little to no fading of the paint or plastics. Upon starting it, I was immediately in love with the noise, from the V4 growl to the whir of the cam gears. Speaking of noise, the bike is fitted with a Remus slip-on. It also came with the stock muffler, but I can't imagine that'll do much other than sit in the garage. I rode it around the block, and immediately purchased it upon returning. Well, after talking him down to $3500 that is. I also scored a lambskin cover for the seat and more importantly, the rear solo cowl. It was fitted with a Ventura bag rack, but that came off and the solo cowl was applied as soon as I got it home. It is also fitted with some brand of touring screen (the name escapes me at the moment, and I can't be bothered leaving the warm study to go check in the cold garage) which doesn't seem to do much for wind deflection, so I'll be replacing it. Having ridden it for the past 3 days, I have immediately lost control and started ordering bits and pieces to begin the inevitable process of tweaking to my liking. The current list of bits on order is as follows: - Honda Marine Volt Meter - 37453-ZW5-000ZA (being well aware from my skulking that the electrics will keep me busy, seemed a good place to start. Not sure where I'm going to mount it yet, and I still need a relay, wires and the like). - Zero Gravity Double Bubble in Light Smoke (being in Aus this is going to take 6 - 8 weeks as the local distributor didn't have stock). - Honda Tank Pad - 08P61-MCS-800. - 2 small clips that hold the battery cover closed - 91549-MW0-790ZA (the originals were conspicuously absent). Needless to say, my wife is not pleased. The list of things to do in the near future: - New tires (the current ones are nearly at the wear bars, and I'm fairly certain the rear has a slow leak). - As I'll have the tires off, I'm seriously considering having the wheels stripped and powdercoated. Out of the entire bike they are showing the wear of their years the most, with numerous nicks from gravel and the like. - Tank grips. Not sure which brand yet. There are some nameless generic things on the bike currently, but their positioning is awful and they are too small to be of much use. - Helibars. This is probably more long term, because in Aussie pesos they are roughly $500 from the local distributor, which is going to be hard to sell to the MWF. Long term, the main points I've noted so far: - Suspension. After coming from a sports bike, this is by far the most notable difference that I'd like to rectify. I'm not expecting to turn the bike into a supersport machine, but I'd at least like it to be better than stock, which is not providing me much confidence at this early stage. - New seat. Gonna be expensive it seems, but I am not liking the lack of grip with the stock seat, and it is leaving my ass numb as quickly if not quicker than the ZX6R's laughable attempt at somewhere comfortable to sit. Well, it seems my typing is like my talking, I go on and on and on an.... I'll sign of for now by saying that I am really looking forward to getting to know my new baby better, both by riding and fiddling. The community here seems really strong, and I'm looking forward also to becoming more involved now that I have something to talk about. I'm always open to suggestions, so don't be afraid to give them! Cheers (ps, sorry the pics are boring, snapped a couple while parked in the city and haven't gotten around to taking any more just yet.)
  16. So riding my new to me 5th gen for the first real road test battery went dead......Need to know how to go about repairing charging system. I am sure there is a topic already started on this but looked for a long time and did not find what I was looking for. I know the the 5th gens have an issue with the rectifier but how do I test it and how do I fix this issue, my first 5th gen I put 56,000 miles on and never had a issue outside of replacing a battery. I need to get this fixed asap. So if any of you fine people out there can kindly show me the way that would be GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you in advance
  17. It's a bit premature, but a fellow is showing interest in buying my 2000 VFR800, but...he's not interested in buying the bike with the suspension goodies on it. If he contacts me he's good to go with the sale, then I'll be pulling off the parts and installing the OEM items. What I'd like to know if anyone would be interested in a Traxxion-Dynamics cartridge kit with 1.03 Kg/mm springs and a Penske 8983 rear shock (currently with 1300 Lb/inch spring)? The fork cartridge kit allow full range of adjustment (preload, compression, and rebound). The Penske 8983 shock I'm sure most people know what it's about. If he pulls the trigger on the bike, I'll be posting them in the classifieds eventually, but it would be nice to find a good home for them as I won't be needing them afterwards.
  18. View File 5th Gen PCII & PCIII maps Some of these I pulled from the Power Commander site. For the files that are corrupt on that site I searched the net and found the missing files on some old plain .html personal blogs such as: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stu.tyrrell/PowerCommanderMaps.htm Note that some of the PCII files have modified ignition. Make sure and critically analyze any map before implementing it! I have nothing to do with these maps except that I searched for them and posted them here. - Knight Submitter Knight Submitted 05/12/2016 Category Power Commander Maps  
  19. First it was my clutch switch, now this. I'm assuming i'll just need to disassemble and clean the kill-switch assembly, right? Symptoms: Any touching AT ALL of the kill-switch cuts the engine, even pushing it down to on, while on. Will occasionally cut the engine and the FI light comes on - Have to turn the bike off for 30+ seconds to resolve this. If kill-switch is used; FI light comes on as above.
  20. Annoyingly enough I managed to finally get that Two Brothers Exhaust of my VFR just to find out that with it I managed to pull a part of the manifold with it. I checked it afterwards and it looks like it is rotted right through. While there are new delkevic systems out there I need to count my bucks as I also need to get my front rim fixed, chain sprockets, rubber, and exhaust... *sigh* I like my VFR and can't wait to ride but she sure is putting up a fight. If anyone has a working Manifold Set and wants to get rid of it I would gladly take it :) Thanks Phil
  21. Just pick up 2000 yellow 5th gen, I had the same bike a few years back and it wasn't a California model. Noticed a tank on the front of the engine that wasn't on my old bike and was wondering if one can take that stuff off the bike, also noticed that the California model has a lot more weight on it, would like to make that go away.... Thanks for any input.....
  22. ConnectorB

    From the album MadScientist's Gallery

  23. ConnectorA

    From the album MadScientist's Gallery

  24. I recently had the misfortune to lowside my previously mint 1999 VFR800. I hit a patch of spilled oil or diesel, and went down hard on the right side, probably at around 60 mph. ATGATT saved my hide and aside from bruised ribs I'm untouched, but the same can't be said of the bike. I thought I would post my experiences with getting the bike back to something like its former glory. If you are interested, read on. The damage was mainly confined to the fairings, the top fairing and right side fairing bore the brunt of the slide, and it looks like my leg smacked the tail fairing as it has two clean breaks but no rash. My cheap Chinese brake lever bent a little but was OK to use on the painful 30 mile ride home. The right bar end was mashed up a little, and the right bar has rotated on the fork leg and dented the tank slightly (bugger).The right mirror was ground through and full of gravel, but the lens was unbroken. The foot brake pedal bent back, and the rider footpeg snapped clean off but the peg hanger is fine. I rode home with my heel jammed on top of the swingarm pivot end. The pillion peg took a lot of the rear load, and the peg carrier has been ground a little on it's end. The Delkevic muffler has a light graze on the endcap but was otherwise mostly fine (which was a surprise). The only other damage was the pillion grab rail which got a little rash on the load hook. I'm realistic that I own a 91000km bike that is 16 years old, that I paid about US2600 for last year, so I don't want to overspend on the repair. Looks like I can get most OEM parts if I want to shell out the big numbers. I have ordered the OEM brake pedal the fairing mounts through Partzillla and was pleasantly surprised at the reasonable shipping cost to me in New Zealand. The brake pedal delivered worked out to about 60% of the locally quoted price from my Honda dealer. I'm keen to support local businesses, but they need to be closer than that. Delivery was 3 weeks ex Japan, so no benefit there. I let my eBay fingers do the walking, and have ordered up replica rider and pillion footpegs, mirrors, and clear indicator lenses. I put the OEM brake lever and bar end back on, so once I get the ordered bits I'll be rolling again, which just leaves the fairings.