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Auspanglish last won the day on September 9

Auspanglish had the most liked content!

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About Auspanglish

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    Aspiring Africa Twin Owner
  • Birthday 12/12/1971

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  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR800FI: Sold
    03 VFR800FI: Sold
    16 CRF100L: ASAP
  1. 4th Gen never ending charging issues

    Joshua is a stand up, honest, competent, responsible and well respected individual on this forum. Your methods of trial and error instead of following established trouble shooting flowcharts has in my mind lead to your expensive repairs. I can't see that you ever ran the workshop manual checks, like Stator AC Voltage output (unplugged), continuity to ground or between phases and resistance. I can't see from what you've written that the checks you may have performed were done so in the logical order for ruling out components. Perhaps you did but it's not documented. The first thing for running these checks is a known healthy and fully charged battery. Nope, you didn't do that. Your first mistake was just throwing in an eBay R/R and the VFRness. No checks documented or expressed in your post. This was a bandaid on a haemorrhage and probably just made things worse. The VFRness doesn't fix existing issues and poor component choice. It helps reinforce the OEM installation when this is assumed to be in decent working order TO PREVENT ISSUES from leaving you stranded. So that was an erroneous assumption if you thought otherwise. EBay R/R... Pffff. Then because of this poor choice of pseudo-solution, your electrical installation caught on fire!! That probably cooked certain sections of the wiring loom, in particular the VFRness as it's intended to work as a bypass and THAT is probably the sole reason some of it ended up having the resistance you discovered AFTER THE FACT. Cooked wires give resistance. Then you just continued doing what poor mechanics who don't have electrical knowledge do: swap parts out in no logical trouble shooting sequence to see if you got lucky. It stands in Josh's favour the fact he refunded you anything at all; he's just too nice a guy. There are tutorials on this site explaining how to diagnose and fix these issues and plenty of generous altruistic people here that could have put you on the right path. You're not telling it how it is by slandering Joshua's website and suggesting people avoid giving him any business. You are attempting and failing miserably to mask your own incompetency in dealing with your bike's issues by using him as your scapegoat. Period. Nail in your coffin: you can't conclude Jack shit just by looking at a stator, it requires testing with a multimeter. The term Fair Weather Friend (or Fellow) is not a complimenting term but the complete opposite. It refers to turncoats who are only friendly when times or circumstances are good. When the chips are down, when you most need them, they give zip in return or turn on you to better their own lot or just aren't there for you. Funny moniker to describe one's self using a derogatory term like that. Poor judgement there as well. I would and have just gone out on a limb for Josh and believe most of us would.
  2. Oh, I read somewhere wheeling the bike backwards a certain distance cleared some ECU memory or something on the 1200... Maybe you just helped confirm that. Has it done it again since?
  3. Carb tuning on 1997 Honda vfr750

    Go to the download section and get the workshop manual in PDF for your model.
  4. changing your fan to a blower fan

    Yes and no. If you are thorough and consistent in your maintenance regime and know your coolant is not old, thermostat and radiator cap are good, air bled, etc, then probably you'll never need to worry. A few fellow VFR owners always say just to swap the display to ambient temperature and "faggedaboudit"!! Then there's Sod's law. If something can go wrong, it will, and if it does, I'd rather know about it. The OEM fan is more efficient when stopped. If it comes on at speeds between, roughly, 40 - 100 Km/h it is rendered useless and will see your electrical system overworked and we all know the 5th and 6th gens' weak points lie in (different) components of their electrical installations. So I think it's good to know what's going on to avoid any possible untoward event becoming catastrophic. Still, it's good to know how it works, what different factors affect it and what those numbers mean and how to avoid overstressing the system. Ignorance is not bliss when you find out the hard way. Read your manuals. Honda, and they're not always right even about their own bikes, has decided the VFR will tolerate up to 120°C. Then the display starts flashing. I have personally seen this at the racetrack on my 6th gen. This is time to stop subjecting the bike to whatever it is you're doing and stop somewhere in the shade, for example, don't switch off immediately, and see if the fan indeed will lower that temperature a bit without the opposing wind from moving forward hindering its flow. Either that, or try easing off the throttle or getting out of bad traffic and out on open roads. The bike is not very proficient at city commuting. Install a manual override, to turn the fan off when you know the incoming air is defeating the fan, try installing it with a timer to revert back to OEM function (to avoid any forgetfulness leading to further disaster). A VTR fan blade will probably only be useful if you use the bike mainly at the racetrack, which few do as it's not exactly the most effective race bike. So, in summary, don't be paranoid, get informed about what's normal and take it as a hot runner. There is a point, at 120°C where you are likely to develop an oil ooze at the header gasket and I do believe the bike shuts down at 125°C but I have no confirmation of this. Thus, temps of 110-112°C which I frequently saw in mixed-use situations were not reason for panic but could, if stuck longer in the aggravating situation, lead to undesirable temperatures and wear and tear on the electrical components like stator, reg/rec, connectors, etc. Knowledge will set you free!!
  5. Clutch replacement

    Why not download the workshop manual off here and have a squiz
  6. 1997 Honda vfr 750

    The first photo looks like it's an overflow tube, my 5th and 6th gen had two or three overflow tubes: one for overfilling the tank, one for coolant overflow from the radiator and the third for coolant overflow from the expansion bottle. The second photo looks like that tube should be connected to your coolant overflow bottle which is that whitish semi-transparent plastic bottle with the black rubber cap you can see in the lower right background of the same photo. As for the fluid on the floor I'm not sure. Probably maybe coolant? For oil filter quick search on Google with your year model... Don't buy disposable K&N oil filters though, heard a lot of stories of failure with nasty results (their air filters are OK)
  7. Vf500F2 Aka Mbd Incubation Period At Least 52 Years

    That must make for some slippery dykes
  8. Engine Mounts And Vibration

    At two years old the coolant needs changing if you ask me.
  9. Missing front wheel assembly part

    JZH is correct, nothing missing. It's all extremely rusty though.
  10. It's a motorcycle forum not a soapbox.
  11. 99 800vfrF1 project bike

    I may be wrong but I think the fuel pump won't work if there's no fuel in it / for it to pump.
  12. Universal switchgear

  13. HISS

    Plenty of cheap ECUs to be had from the USA with no HISS, sold on eBay together with ignition cylinder, fuel tank cap, seat release mechanism and one or two keys which you can easily have copies made of. It is no deterrent to organized thieves who then probably re-register the bike across the channel and sell it. Or just steal it to part it out and ditch the traceable bits like the chassis. If needs be, making coded copies is simple with Kaldek's YouTube how to.
  14. Where do I start - Cause it won't!!!

    Always start with the easiest stuff. 1. Battery. Are the battery terminals tight? Is the battery dying in the ass? Get the battery checked out at a battery store or workshop. 2. Once battery is known to be good, search for "The drill". This tutorial will explain how to test the wiring, the stator and the regulator/rectifier. You should find some fixes in there for typical faulty parts of the wiring loom. Especially the blue connector near left hand radiator and the susceptible wiring components close to the battery. 3. Search for "BYC" or Kentucky Fried Connector (my 6th gen specific thread on the faulty ground bus connector), if you can't find it, search for "Urethra" or "Eureka" by Veefercanuk or however you spell his moniker. That's the 5th gen specific thread on the equivalent shithouse connector, there's a link in there to my 6th gen thread. May the V fource be with you!
  15. HISS

    No hiss in north America