Captain 80s

How long since your last new helmet? While a headache is perhaps a sign, where are the pressure points that are giving pain? I sold helmets for over a decade, from the 90s into the 00s. If it has been a while, a properly fitted new helmet can be a shock.

We sold Acerbis shirts at the Honda Shop. It said "Ah" had a chair and the some bees. Underneath it said, "Say it right, dammit!"

Arai actually has three shapes in their line up, depending on model. Round-oval (Quantum, and it's derivatives), intermediate-oval (Renegade family?), long-oval (Signet).

Out of Winterization, installed a battery, primed the fuel system and checked the tire pressures... and rode the 95 for it's Spring opener. Nice rip in the Snohomish Valley after work and stopped for a beverage and some sweet potato fries at one of my favorites places, Duvall Grill and Tap Room. EDIT: WRONG FORUM!!! Sorry. I'm still leaving this here.

If you like carb V4s, you picked one of the best. The styling can be polarizing (not to me), but as far as how it runs, feels and sounds... hard to beat. Just rode mine (95) last night for a rip in the valley before a week+ of rain comes and I just absolutely love this bike. It does deserve a second chance. Keep your eyes open for pieces that are not toast and reasonably priced and start practicing repairs. You can perhaps start to build a replacement set for paint and then swap over. Start another thread so we can follow your progress if you want. Maybe some pics to see what you are dealing with. Almost anything can be repaired. Good luck and Cheers!

Judging by the phrases used in his post and the general description of the starting point, I don't think either one of those options is in the budget. You could just buy a pretty nice 94 thru 97 for less money. Naked maybe. But if you want it to not look like ass, then usually any "budget" naked build is out too (imo).

Anything is possible, but they are VERY different bikes, especially the tank. Not really a feasible idea. When you were done you should have just bought a nicer starting point. Not much out there at all, let alone at a decent price that are nice enough to put on right away as you have seen. If you are dead set on this bike and want it with cowlings (this Summer), start practising plastic repair. There are decent tanks out there.

"one" what? Is this bike coming out of Winter storage for Spring by any chance? Sounds like you need the carbs cleaned/rebuilt.

Yes, and... After changing the oil, you need to RIDE for a good 45 minutes at full operating temperature to remove any moisture from the crankcases (provided you do not have any issues). Running a bike in the driveway, even until the fans come on, typically introduces moisture. That's why short trips on vehicles is so bad for them and their exhaust systems.

Well, shit.

With a way to support the bike, and get it back up after, remove the fork caps and lower the front of the bike as far as it will go. The room you have left is where a radiator needs to fit.

I don't know, but according to the writing on the tank, Stephanie gives all her love.

Because you were trying to act like you were praying?

If you are going to try that route, be sure to bend that damaged part of the bracket back down so it doesn't interfere with the fuel sender plate and prevent it from compressing the new o-ring as much as possible. Probably bend it down a little farther than it's original position, but still allow the flange to install. Fill the tank with a good amount of fuel and set it on some newspaper over night somewhere that possible fumes would be ok. You'll know if it leaks or not. And don't try and use any sealant, it won't help.

The "nut" is what came off of the stud. Judging by the interior of that tank, this may may the smaller problem. But if you could cut the stud off flush and get it to release from the bracket, you maybe be able to slide a nut under and then use the perfect length bolt to secure that corner. You also might be able to use an SAE die instead of metric and get some decent threads for an SAE nut. CAREFULLY "tighten" that one first with good Loc-Tite. Let it cure overnight and then tighten the remaining 3 good nuts / studs. There is also a good chance that with a brand new o-ring, 3 good mounts might compress and seal.

How about a better shot from the side clearly showing the damage

You can get some pre-formed reinforced fuel tubing in different sizes that comes in a piece with varying angles and bends. Something might be workable. Also when I just Googled "preformed fuel line" some interesting stuff came up too.

Ouch. Sorry dude.

Oops you're right. Got mixed up. Just confirmed here too. 90 - 97 VFR then.

The 88/89 VFR shares the same width / offset as the 90 - 97 VFR and the 90 - 96 CBR1000. The 91 - 98 CBR600 is different. Same width, less offset.

Hi Captain 80s, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

On 86/87 RC24 VFRs to use the CBR wheel with the stock forks you have to have about 5-6 mm machined off of the disc mounts.

Not worth over hauling, and if its "stuck" there's nothing you can do about it. Damping circuits are internal. Either try and find a used aftermarket (Fox, Works, Ohlins, etc) and have it rebuilt or go with something new (YSS, Hagon, Wilburs, etc). I go both routes and have rebuilt Fox and Ohlins on a few bikes, but I have also put YSS on about six bikes and am very happy. Great value. biketyresuk eBay seller is the store front for the UK R&D Center for YSS, Firefox Racing. I have bought them all thru them and have had great service.

Those are cool bars, love the hinge.