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About FairWeatherFellow

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Location
    Mill Creek, WA
  • In My Garage:
    1995 VFR750F Scrapyard 4thGen
  1. Awesome, thank you gentlemen! I hadn't heard they're name mentioned before even with digging through lots of rear shock threads. Appreciate the feedback.
  2. I've been looking around at rear shock options for some time now. Obvious choice is a Ohlins or Penske...but i want a 3 way adjustable and i don't have $1,200 to $1,500 laying around. Anybody use the Nitron or know anybody who has? Whats your input on it? The point I'm at is anything is better than stock, I'm really starting to notice how poorly my rear shock handles, and the fact that big bumps are actually hurting now. Also has anyone heard about these guys? http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/ They have a revalved and resprung 929 rear shock with an adapter for $420.... sounds like a smashing deal to me. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
  3. Hmmm...Makes sense. Wouldn't surprise me if someone has been into the carbs before. Had a UMI filter, air box mod, and full TBR system when I got it. When the UMI was in it with the box open I had lots of pops on deceleration. Then I discovered the filter was completely deteriorated...Might of had something to do with it. Luckily for me I'm painting a race bike for the owner of a renoun NW bike tuner for trade work on my bike. Gonna let him do his thing 😁. I'll be sure to post a fallow up with charts 👍
  4. Awesome, thanks! That'd be great, I appreciate it! Haha unfortunately I don't appear to fit the stereotype! Trying to work a deal with the local tuner, paint his race bike to get the viffer all tuned up 😉
  5. Also what stage kit would that be? Stage 1 2 or 3? Not sure what each stage entails. It also doesn't say so in the info 😒
  6. Thank you sir!
  7. Awesome thanks for the info. Do you know how to check the size of whats in there, are there marking of some kind? Also wouldn't shimming the needles make it richer? Thanks, Miles
  8. Ok guys so I've been busy dialing in the viffer. I got it dyno'd when I first got the bike and was running a bit rich, but the power curve was good and it ran great. I fixed the busted main header on cylinder 3, put on a non restrictive mid pipe, plugged the air box mod hole, put in a Piper cross air filter. Hoping I'd lean out a bit. I dyno'd it the other day and I'm even a bit richer that before. Dyno tech informed me that having better airflow could help make a richer environment for I'm pulling more volume and air which pulls more fuel as well. Which means I have carb work in my future. He said start by going down 5 on the main jets. I understand what that entails; so what size are the factory jets? Also I don't know if there was prior carb work done, if they aren't factory jets how would I tell the size of them so I could go down from it. I'm newer to carb work but I've been researching how they work and to better understand what I'll be doing. Just unsure of the specs for them. Any info helps and is much appreciated! Bottom chart if the first run on the dyno, top chart is the run I did Saturday. Also they changed the software and there's a 5% accuracy difference in number. So no I haven't lost power, I just have to lean her out a little to better my numbers.
  9. Thanks, so far so good! I've gotta lean her out just a bit, should only get better. 😀
  10. So I took her to the dyno again today. I patch up the air box mod, installed a Piper cross air filter, patched up my TBR system, and put a non restrictive mid pipe on. I was hoping that it would potentially lean me out just a little. But in actuality it just made me richer than before. New dyno number says 88 and old is 93 but I didn't actually make less power, software update for the dyno is 5% more accurate and less generous haha. Nels told me I should go down 5 on the main jets...Sooo what size is the main jet? Also how do I check the size of the jet that's in there if it isn't factory... Thanks ahead of time!VID_20170408_101442803.mp4
  11. From the album The JunkenViffer Story

  12. From the album The JunkenViffer Story

  13. From the album The JunkenViffer Story

  14. Hmmm interesting things going on. Only thing that catches my eye about what you've said is that you used steel wool on the rod. Not sure if that has enough abrasion to actually remove the scratches on the rod. Something like 800 grit would be more able. If there is good lever feel and your slave piston is moving freely, than all that remains is the clutch itself. Plates stuck, maybe replace your springs. Also the gasket you should be able to order OEM from a Honda dealer. One of the few things you can still order from Honda.
  15. I did a dark blue peal/metallic. Paint code B20, I also added a little extra pearl when mixing it. I like the VFR red/black theme but my car is already red and black. Sooo... Didn't want to have to choose between red bike or red car. I painted a 240 a couple months ago Toyota Green with gold peal, didn't look too bad. Idk about on a bike though. Also bought OEM style decals and put them on, the "VFR" is a little retro but it looks great. Decals were $45 off a seemingly reputable person off ebay.