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GreginDenver last won the day on December 25 2016

GreginDenver had the most liked content!

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About GreginDenver

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  • In My Garage:
    '99 VFR800 49-state, '01 VFR800 49-state, (5th Gens rule!)
  1. Build a better mouse trap - easy 5th gen hp

    Wow, your approach to buying and riding an 18 year old motorcycle is very different from mine. I've purchased two 5th Generation VFR800s in the last two years (one I keep here in Denver, the other is now in Alabama where I spend a lot of time). I can hardly bring myself to ride a new (old) motorcycle until I've given it a very thorough round of inspection and maintenance.
  2. RC36.2 (4th Gen) Fuel Injection discussion

    Motorola MPX4115 MAP sensors are pretty cheap. I always use the MPX4115 because it is their basic atmosphere model (as opposed to other MAP units designed to handle turbo or supercharger boosted engine MAP signals), they sense in a range from 115 kPa down to around 9 kPa.
  3. RC36.2 (4th Gen) Fuel Injection discussion

    Did you go to Patrik's NC30 Fuel Injection project blog (as was suggested on page 1 of this thread)? If "simplification" is your overall aim it's important to realize there are different areas of a motorcycle fuel injection project that can present as very, very complex. If you take the time to read Patrik's NC30 blog you'll see how complex it was for him to adapt throttle bodies to the bike. He has skills and equipment that I will never have (CNC machining, for one example, and he's highly mathematical). So I choose to simplify by not attacking areas like the mechanical aspects of the throttle body (especially a throttle body assembly as complex as a Honda V4!), and instead I'm willing to suck up the punishment of lots and lots and lots of wiring and soldering.
  4. RC36.2 (4th Gen) Fuel Injection discussion

    The Firmware load that the MegaSquirt and MicroSquirt use is Open Source, so guys are free to be creative. Your question about the MAP sensor is a perfect example: One of the problems with fuel injecting motorcycle engines is that they are always configured with Individual Throttle Body arrays (both carbs and throttle bodies count). Individual Throttle Bodies are great for high-revving performance applications (most motorcycles) but they produce a very poor and messy vacuum signal to a MAP sensor. So running a single MAP sensor is always a bit of a problem. A guy in Germany has developed a build-it-yourself, advanced Multiple-MAP-sensor unit that uses an Arduino Nano to monitor four MAP sensors (one for each cylinder on his ZX-7R). The code loaded into the Arduino Nano looks at all four MAP sensor signals and determines which is pulling the most vacuum at any given microsecond. Then the Nano forwards that signal to a Digital-to-Analog converter which is wired into the MicroSquirt's main MAP sensor input. Also, the Nano knows which of the four MAP sensors is connected to cylinder #1, so whenever it sees that particular MAP sensor pull its highest vacuum it (the Nano) generates another digital output that mimics a camshaft position sensor (again out of the Nano as a digital signal, then through a DAC and on to the input on the MicroSquirt for camshaft position).
  5. RC36.2 (4th Gen) Fuel Injection discussion

    I've been building and riding Do-It-Yourself Fuel Injected motorcycles for about 10 years now. One of my best efforts is my 1993 Suzuki GSF400. Instead of trying to retrofit/modify a set of throttle bodies from another motorcycle I simply turned the GSF400's rack of Mikuni BST32SS carbs into fuel injection throttle bodies. This keeps the fit and serviceability of the original setup which really helps in the areas of long-term ownership and maintenance. I did a little searching and found that the secondary injectors from a Kawasaki ZX-6R (the set that's mounted on the intake airbox) were a perfect match for the fueling needs of my GSF400's little 100cc displacement pistons. So all I had to do was remove all of the excess plumbing and metal from the float bowl area of the Mikuni BST32SS carbs and get a receiving pocket machined into each of the four carb bodies (with the tip of each injector aiming up into the carb bore just beyond the throttle butterfly. After some experimentation I removed the carbs vacuum operated diaphragms because performance was unaffected. I fabricated the necessary bracing to locate and secure the ZX-6R injector array into the newly machined injector pockets. And I added a Throttle Position Sensor that was parted-out from a Triumph Speed Triple. Just an example of one possible pathway to a successful Fuel Injection project (I use the Microsquirt V3 ECU). Why try to stick with the Honda ECU when the Microsquirt V3 ECU offers you almost unlimited user-control over every input and output parameter? You'll be able to fine tune every single aspect of your 4th Gen's fueling and ignition. There are moments when you feel like a mad scientist (when it's your fabrication and tuning that make is happen). There's even a way to achieve Full Sequential Injection Control without a camshaft position sensor (using the Manifold Absolute Pressure signal from cylinder #1, which is just as reliable as a camshaft position sensor).
  6. Warmup time/miles?

    That's a bit of a surprise to me. I've had the opposite experience with two different VFR 5th gen bikes in the last year (purchased one of them in north Denver and the other one up in Longmont). One bike is a '99 and the other is an '01. Both had low miles, the '99 had 19,000 and the '01 had only 11,600 miles. On both bikes the exhaust valves were all within specification but the intake valves were a mixed bag: several valves nearly out of spec and one or two valves right at the limit or over. I'm pretty sure that both of my VFR800s had never had a valve check/adjustment done. I went through both of my 5th Gens very thoroughly, refurbishing them and doing all the little bits of maintenance the prior owners had chosen not to do (yes, they were low-miles bikes but the 5th Gen VFRs are pushing 20 years old now, so there was a lot to do). I documented the process while refurbishing the '99: http://vfrworld.com/threads/refurbishing-my-99-5th-gen.52488/
  7. Broken instrument cluster

    The white plastic is almost certainly ABS plastic. The trick with both the Harbor Frieght plastic welder and the Plastex powdered-plastic method is to use the correct material. In the case of the Harbor Frieght welder all you get with the kit is black colored ABS which isn't very compatible with the harder/stiffer white colored ABS. If you buy the Harbor Frieght plastic welder kit you should also buy a package of their Harbor Frieght plastic welding rods which contains 3 types of plastic rods including the hard white ABS plastic. Or if you decide to try Plastex you need to specify their white ABS plastic powder. I've had good long-term fixes with both methods (when the new plastic is a good match with the original plastic you can get good, strong results).
  8. Winter cooling improvement project

    I see the VFR800's water pump as a long-term "consumable item". The water pump isn't expensive and the oldest 5th Gens are now 20 years old. I just went ahead and replaced the water pump for my peace of mind during the next 20 years (I hope I ride that long).
  9. Yes, in my experience it seems that "shocking" (by drastically thermal cycling) the two metals (the steel of the stud and the aluminum alloy of the cylinder head) has the effect of breaking the bond they've formed over time. The penetrating oil is added because it will infiltrate the area around the stud as the mechanical bond between the stud and the cylinder head is heat-cycled. That plus having the patience to give the studs some time to sit while the penetrating oil works it's way into the tiny gaps around the stud threads is key.
  10. Also, for the future, whenever you're removing exhaust studs from any engine you should go into the situation expecting the stud to shear off. So instead of just immediately going for broke with the wrenches you should spray the stud down with penetrating oil and use high heat on it, then let it sit for a while, then spray it down again, then more heat, then go into the kitchen and eat a sandwich and drink a beer, maybe even take a nap. Then go back out to the garage and attempt the removal.
  11. What is this sound?

    Your location says, "COL". I'm uncertain whether that means the country of Columbia or the U.S. state of Colorado? If your location is actually Colorado you can go to Harbor Freight and get a "Mechanic's Stethoscope" (really cheap, just a few dollars). The mechanic's stethoscope is a great tool for tracking down the location/cause of an engine noise. It allows you to be very precise when listening. At normal idle engine speed you can easily determine whether or not the noise is coming from something in the valve train (the noise occurs at 1/2 crankshaft speed) or whether it's coming from something crankshaft related (the noise matches the engine idle speed). That can give you a good start and some direction to go in to correct the problem.
  12. VFR History Lesson Required!

    Over here in the U.S.A. we have the California-specific JH2RC461 that is down on power due to emission control changes to the engine (rather than the exhaust). They're relatively few so it's easy to find a JH2RC460 which is the 49-state model. 5th generation specific, I don't know about other generations.
  13. Winter cooling improvement project

    From those pictures it looks like you could increase your VFR's cooling efficiency (heat rejection ability) by cleaning/degreasing your radiators (both the coolant radiators and the oil cooler). Also, removing the little rocks and tiny bits of road debris and maybe straightening out some of the bent cooling fins will probably help.
  14. Cam reinstall - timing help needed

    yes, you do cycle the crankshaft when you're checking the valve clearances. The marks he put on the gears are for when you actually remove the camshafts to replace the shims on the valves that need to be adjusted.
  15. Parts fell off - where do they come from?

    The circlip and the washer go on the inside of rear brake pedal pivot (on the inside of the right rider footpeg). The VFR uses several circlips that size, but only one of them is accompanied by a washer that looks just like that, and that's on the rear brake pedal pivot. Because of the tight fit between the rear cylinder exhaust headers and the rider's foot peg, putting those items back onto the brake pivot requires partial removal of the whole right side rider footpeg (this means you have to remove the nut from the swingarm pivot because that holds rider footpeg on the bike). And the plastic clip could have come from anywhere on the bike.