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Earthshake

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Earthshake last won the day on April 10 2014

Earthshake had the most liked content!

About Earthshake

  • Birthday 03/19/1957

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  • Location
    Greenville, SC
  • In My Garage:
    2010 Multistrada 1200s
    2006 Crownline (when it's too hot to ride)

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  1. Earthshake

    Loose Livestock!

    It's shots like these that make me miss Texas.
  2. Earthshake

    VIR April 2015

  3. Earthshake

    motorcycle 007

    That's a great shot!
  4. I prefer ethanol free for winter storage (bike or boat) and for daily use in my Duc, which has a plastic tank. There was a recently settled class action lawsuit against Ducati for their plastic tanks which have been subject to swelling, presumably because of ethanol fuels. KTM has suffered similar problems. However, performance wise, I don't notice a difference except perhaps in mpg. You can check the following website for ethanol free fuel in your area. http://pure-gas.org/
  5. Hmmm, like Rainbowhead at a sporting event, that beemer always manages to find itself front and center. Hope you guys are havin' fun.
  6. Earthshake

    Kentucky Revival

    October 2008
  7. Earthshake

    Cbvfr1100xx

    Gee whiz, that looks really swell! :warranty: ...said Beaver to Wally
  8. This is what I have on mine and, so far so good. I have washed the bike and ridden it in rain without any ill effect. I don't cover it, but I don't intentionally spray water directly at it either.
  9. Skutter can you please explain what pull the tubes up through the trees mean :goofy: forgive my ignorance :unsure: Pull the fork tubes up through the triple clamps (aka trees). It will quicken the steering somewhat. Refer to Post #15.
  10. Somebody on this forum provided me this info when I did the 929 shock conversion. Use this for guidance AFTER you have properly set sag. LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (FORK) • The fork offers a supremely plush ride, especially when riding straight up. When the pace picks up, however, the feeling of control is lost. The fork feels mushy, and traction "feel" is poor. • After hitting bumps at speed, the front tire tends to chatter or bounce. • When flicking the bike into a corner at speed, the front tire begins to chatter and lose traction. This translates into an unstable feel at the clip-ons. • As speed increases and steering inputs become more aggressive, a lack of control begins to appear. Chassis attitude and pitch become a real problem, with the front end refusing to stabilize after the bike is countersteered hard into a turn. TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (FORK) • The ride is quite harsh--just the opposite of the plush feel of too little rebound. Rough pavement makes the fork feel as if it's locking up with stiction and harshness. • Under hard acceleration exiting bumpy corners, the front end feels like it wants to "wiggle" or "tankslap." The tire feels as if it isn't staying in contact with the pavement when on the gas. • The harsh, unforgiving ride makes the bike hard to control when riding through dips and rolling bumps at speed. The suspension's reluctance to maintain tire traction through these sections erodes rider confidence. LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (FORK) • Front end dive while on the brakes becomes excessive. • The rear end of the motorcycle wants to "come around" when using the front brakes aggressively. • The front suspension "bottoms out" with a solid hit under heavy braking and after hitting bumps. • The front end has a mushy and semi-vague feeling--similar to lack of rebound damping. TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (FORK) • The ride is overly harsh, especially at the point when bumps and ripples are contacted by the front wheel. • Bumps and ripples are felt directly; the initial "hit" is routed through the chassis instantly, with big bumps bouncing the tire off the pavement. • The bike's ride height is effected negatively--the front end winds up riding too high in the corners. • Brake dive is reduced drastically, though the chassis is upset significantly by bumps encountered during braking. LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • The ride is plush at cruising speeds, but as the pace increases, the chassis begins to wallow and weave through bumpy corners. • This causes poor traction over bumps under hard acceleration; the rear tire starts to chatter due to a lack of wheel control. • There is excessive chassis pitch through large bumps and dips at speed and the rear end rebounds too quickly, upsetting the chassis with a pogo-stick action. TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • This creates an uneven ride. The rear suspension compliance is poor and the "feel" is vague. • Traction is poor over bumps during hard acceleration (due to lack of suspension compliance). • The bike wants to run wide in corners since the rear end is "packing down"; this forces a nose-high chassis attitude, which slows down steering. • The rear end wants to hop and skip when the throttle is chopped during aggressive corner entries. LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • There is too much rear end "squat" under acceleration; the bike wants to steer wide exiting corners (since the chassis is riding rear low/nose high). • Hitting bumps at speed causes the rear to bottom out, which upsets the chassis. • The chassis attitude is affected too much by large dips and G-outs. • Steering and control become difficult due to excessive suspension movement. TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • The ride is harsh, though not quite as bad as too much rebound; the faster you go, the worse it gets, however. • Harshness hurts rear tire traction over bumps, especially during deceleration. There's little rear end "squat" under acceleration. • Medium to large bumps are felt directly through the chassis; when hit at speed, the rear end kicks up.
  11. I use the Garmin power hookup that came with the Zumo. It's fused and connects direct to the battery, but I don't have any other electrifarkles. If I did I would go with the Blue Sea fuse box (or something similar) that has been written about recently. Standard map on the Zumo (CN North America NT v.8) seems very good for road coverage. However, as with all software packages it will not show new roads or recently reconstructed interchanges that have been built in the last two or three years. I have not done any dualsporting with it so I can't comment on FS roads, trails, etc. I have also loaded the eastern US topo map onto an SD card which I use more for work that takes me into remote areas in the Appalachian mountains. It would be good for hiking and similar activities if you are comfortable reading drainage featuers and topographic prominences rather than roads. It seems to have pretty good coverage on less travelled roads, but it is an older software package without support, so it is what it is. I am very pleased so far. :thumbsup:
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