Adam30

These pegs are about one inch lower than stock. It appears that the brake pedal has about that much adjustment left in it, but of course its up to your personal taste whether itl be enough...

Picked up my Ulysses pegs from the dealer last weekend and installed them. A few small notes... The holes in the new pegs are much larger than the pin, or holes in our OEM pegs. When installing the pin with the new pegs, it appears to be a nice tight fit though, only because the new peg actually isnt able to center itself on the stock mounting bracket....it sticks out a bit. This really doesnt matter....but it shows that it is actually not a direct replacement. But, we kind of knew that anyways....they're parts off a different bike. But, it does fasten fairly securely, and as others said, using the washer that is normally against the cotter pin to wedge in between the peg and the mounting bracket is just enough to tighten the peg up and get rid of the bit of clearance that's there. It isnt necessary though. When the new pegs are installed, when pivoted to the downward position, they dont actually retract and sit totally level, because of how the inside of the new peg hits the mounting bracket just a bit. Unfortunately, i did end up grinding just a tad off of each peg to stop it from hitting, so now the pegs retract down to being totally level. But we're only talking about a max of 5 seconds each, literally with a bench grinder. The stock spring fits fairly well with the new pegs, although there is a bit more slack and the spring doesnt seem to fit as tight with quite as much tension. But...the spring is still able to work correctly and push the peg down if its ever pushed up. I havent finished adjusting the shifter/brake lever yet. Im still trying to find the best adjustment on the spline for the shifter...my initial adjustment still had the lever up a bit too high, but one notch down and it was too low. Ill have to find the best spot and probably just get used to it im thinking. I havent tackled the brake lever adjustment at all yet. After installing them on the bike, at first glance they look totally huge for the bike....but, its like other changes you make...you get used to it fairly quickly, and i actually like the idea of the new pegs being larger and having more surface area on them. And besides, especially if you go for the silver version, its not something thats really going to be noticable unless you're looking FOR it. I did ride the bike about 20 miles with them on, and ive gotta say I love them. Just the inch change in leg position almost makes you feel for a second that youre on a different bike, and im anticipating much less knee discomfort on those 500 mile freeway stretches. I wondered a bit about vibration with these pegs, since the stock ones have the rubber padding on them to isolate vibration. But, I can honestly say I cannot feel any difference whatsoever so far in vibration. I havent riddent it extensively yet, but i figure if any vibration problems didnt jump out at me so far, then it wont be an issue at all. Even though the fit isnt totally perfect, it's still a great mod for $24 each (in the silver version). The same pegs in black are about double the price. If you want your legs to stretch a bit more, i think this one's a no-brainer. If you chose to do the bit of grinding and the adjustment of the levers, plan on about 30 minutes total for everything.

Just ordered those part # pegs from a Buell/HD/BMW dealer an hour or so from here. Mite as well make a mini-road trip out of it, as its a good excuse to spend some time looking at the new BMW's too....lol. $24 each, about 3 days to get them.

Excellent....sounds good. As long as the Canadian/US part numbers are the same, I'll be ordering a set... Thanks for the info...

Just to add my input, and to keep this thread alive... I stopped at an HD dealer yesterday, and checked out an '09 Ulysses and the pegs that were on it. I inquired what the pegs would cost at the parts counter for an '09. She looked them up and even wrote down the part numbers for me to take with; N0503.4AK N0502.4AK $46 Each, and they'd have to order them Im assuming these are the black versions, like the '09 on the floor had. I would like to know if they're available in silver too. As well, are we clear on the fact that the Ulysses pegs are the ones that require no modifications, or cutting, grinding, or installing other hardware to get them to fit right? Im interested in an install that requires little or no modifications at all. If anyone happens to know what year the Ulysses had the silver pegs and if that model year is the same as the new ones, that'd be appreciated too.

You're exactly right. If it were warranty, then itd be a different story. But, a recall says that they are to replace the harness, period. They're fixing a known issue that could or likely will exist, at some point in the bike's life. In doing this, they are obligated to replace the suspect parts with their updated version and thats it. If you were to tamper with the wiring AFTER that, then they could refuse covering any costs if the known problem came up. People have a hard time understanding this, even with warrantys. If the owner tampers with the manufacturer's original design and theres a failure, then you cant hold the manufacturer responsible. But in a recall, they are to service the bike irregardless, and install their updated part. Period. Sounds like more of a dealer issue than a Honda issue to me.....

To follow up with this thread incase some of you didnt see my post in my other thread from last week, the official word from Honda is that the velocity stacks are to be both short in front and both tall in the rear.

Sorry....I did mean LF and RR short. That's what the service manual seems to indicate as well, but it is a bit vague

Hey, just got your post from the other thread to look at this one, lol. Ive presented this issue on a couple of different threads and was starting to lose track on where i was, lol. But anyways, that is interesting....and i know it's been kind of a debate here before. THe way i saw the illustration in the service manual was LF and RR were to be short. It is "fairly" clear in my manual, but not perectly clear. The one thing i have noticed the past couple times of disassembly was that the little index marks they put on the stacks dont always seem to line up with the corresponding marks on the airbox. But, just looked at the VFRD Parts list, which ive never done before....and you're correct, its showing both #6's up front and two #7's in the back. Im going to go back and look....I swear there were guys saying that their bikes were LF-short RR-Tall and that they havent been touched from the factory. But i guess ive heard it both ways now that i think of it..... Hmmmm.......

Just to add my input for the heck of it, my '02 has had the hesitation almost all along...although I really started noting it last summer (coincidentally after reading about it here). I always notice it around town, between 4-5k rpm under very slight throttle. Some days its worse than others, but one thing I did notice is that in the mountains and higher altitudes is where itd seem to be noticably worse. I now have 36k miles on it and everything is totally stock besides the BMC air filter which i just changed from the former KN I had in there. I havent messed with the flapper, PAIR, or any other emissions equipment at all. Stock exhaust as well. I did adjust my starter valves two summers ago just for the heck of it because it was mentioned on here so much at the time. My velocity stacks are short/tall in front and tall/short on the rear head. Ive double checked this a couple times, since thats how the Honda service manual illustrates they should be. And to answer someones question earlier, I did recently have the wiring recall done, and no apparent change in the surging issue afterwards. Ive just gotten used to the fact that this is characteristic of the bike and is probably due to its super lean setup from the factory. Like many agree, the FI setup on these bikes is super lean....a little too lean I believe, so much so that it borders on poor drivability issues. I just figure this surging is just another result of this. Oh, and ive also changed my wax unit over this past winter just because ive heard of numerous issues with it on others bikes, and i had it torn apart anyways in that area. This also did not help or effect the surging....its still there just like it was before.

I regret and feel really bad about missing that ride by just a few hours. The rough weather in western Kansas on sunday threw me off by 3-4 hours.....riding through wind/hail, ducking for cover in an Ellis, KS gas station bathroom with everyone else.....trying to find radars to watch....and just killing time deciding where to go, when, and how fast. I thought Id still make it, but by almost midnight it was time to pull off for the night by the time I got to Limon, and I still had visiting and hello's to do first in the morning before I should take off on any rides. Im sorry I missed it; hopefully later this summer....