Welcome to VFRDiscussion

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


sfdownhill last won the day on September 1

sfdownhill had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

93 Excellent

1 Follower

About sfdownhill

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/14/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Vista CA
  • In My Garage:
    2001 VFR
    2002 VFR
    2003 CRF450R

Recent Profile Visitors

1,114 profile views
  1. Ensuring you re-torque every bolt

    I keep a notepad [spiral bound] on my workbench with a section [back pages] devoted only to torque. I put torque non-completion data at the back and work forward so I don't have to start at the beginning of the notes and sift through other project info, measurements, part numbers, etc. to find scattered torque status. Follow your 'torque everything to spec at install' guideline religiously, and if you install any part of a system that shouldn't or can't be torqued to spec immediately upon installation, write the exact nut/bolt/position in the notebook w time and day. Review the notebook periodically and again at completion of project. After verifying that you've finished all necessary torque tasks, you can tear out the back pages and start clean on the next project. Doing this has made me comfortable leaving even something as vital as the rear axle nut snug, but not torqued and not staked. I had the brakes off for caliper rebuild/stainless hose install, and without the rear brake, had no way to hold the rear wheel assembly against the 148 ft/lb torque required for the axle nut. Later, after installing the brakes, my notebook reminded me to torque and stake the axle nut, just in case I got caught up in finish line fever and thought about a premature test ride. Of course, I end up rechecking many torques after final tightening - safe still being significantly better than sorry. The story of how the rear wheel came off is way better when heard about someone else's snafu than when told about your own.
  2. 5th & 6th VFR 800 Header build

    It can't be a threadjack if it's reaching out to the original poster... Dang, Jay! You know what they say about traction and gravity: It seems like there's never enough, and then, suddenly, there's waaayyyy too much. Good thing you do your exercises every morning - your strength and flexibility probably kept it from being worse. Best thoughts and speedy healing to you. Glad you've got family around you.
  3. Sounds good Brian, consider the extra spot yours. Glad to hear your 1990 is literally still in the family, RC1237V
  4. I'll keep settin' 'em up, you keep bringin' 'em home...
  5. Yessir, just ask anyone in town for directions to the Sigma Lambda Upsilon Tau house at Shaver U.
  6. crazybro snapped up the extra spot for Friday.
  7. That's beautiful (for a twin) but bring your 1990 - that VFR is pure eye candy!
  8. Yessir, I'll be trying to keep tc339, BrianF, Duc2V4, and the rest of you in sight Oct 7-8. Duc2V4, I'm in on the 3rd bed Saturday - thanks for tracking down lodging in Shaver. I got a double room in Kernville for Fri night, and texted crazybrother to see if he wants to share quarters Friday.
  9. Fuel injector clean/refurbish recommendation

    Thanks JZH - don't know why I didn't think of ebay. Silly.
  10. Stompgrip is cheating [with pics]

    Glad to hear others are enjoying added stiction. Nice bike, hellindustries. Crakerjac, you're right, nothing in the world of friction comes free - my street leathers are OK so far, but I had to have inside-knee leather patches added to all my motocross pants. Capt Bob - I've had the same experience w Stomp service. I was having a hard time getting my Stomp seat cover onto my MX bike's seat. I was living in Orange County close to Stomp at the time, so I stopped by and Dave (founder) just brought me in the back and showed me how to do a pro seat cover install by doing mine. Very cool.
  11. Fuel injector clean/refurbish recommendation

    Cool. Thanks for the feedback. Digging into a motorcycle you want to do right by is definitely stepping in quicksand, punching the tar baby, [fill in your own time-suck metaphor here...]
  12. Your 'Talking to Myself' thread had me laughing out loud for real, not just a polite lol for the Aerostitch reference. Had a definite Richard Bach feel to it. That last comment from '2012 you' had a lot of subtext; I've heard several guys say they never slept with a 5th gen that didn't provide an exhilarating experience [Insert reference to impending divorce here].
  13. Fuel injector clean/refurbish recommendation

    Moose - thanks for posting. I'm looking forward to reading your results. How many miles are on your bike? And what was your source for bags of 20 pretty fasteners? I'm stacking up a round of 'while I'm in there' service for my 2001: valve adjustment, thermostat/oring replacement, injector service, starter valve synch and new plugs. Thanks also to Cogswell, Duc2V4, JZH, Terry, and VFROZ for contributing - this thread has a lot of good meat on its bones.
  14. Hey Noel! You can be Riff if i can remain Raff. Sorry to hear you've moved on from the 7th gen. The Multistrada sounds like a close substitute - are you following in Crazybrother's footsteps?
  15. Short story: I installed Stompgrip on my 5th gen and wow, did it ever exceed my objectives and expectations for fit, appearance, and performance. Taking advantage of the grip Stomp provides during braking is like cheating. Long story: Some things I learned: [1] Follow the written directions included with the Stompgrip - they cover all the critical components of a successful installation. Some points in the instructions I found especially important: [2] Do purchase and use at least two Adhesion Promoter Kits #35-1-0001 [3M glue sticks that help adhesion and longevity]. Stompgrip calls these sticks 'primers'. [3] The instructions say to clean the mounting area, but be extra thorough and clean it with one of the recommended products 3-5 times. I used 90% alcohol. Allow to dry fully before applying primer. [4] Again, though the instructions say to use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the Stompgrip AND the mounting area, they do not emphasize the importance of warming enough. Stompgrip loves to be warmed up during installation and it adheres to the mounting surface better if the surface is kept warm. Rewarm the Stompgrip and mounting surface after installing every 2-3 inches of material. [5] Do wait at least 24 hours before riding with your newly installed Stompgrip. Curing is critical to adhesive strength and allows tiny spots of air to reabsorb in to adhesive [6] Call Stompgrip with any remaining questions - they are good folks and happy to help. Here are some details of my installation: I found that Stomp doesn't have a kit for the 5th gen but they do have a kit for the 6th gen, so I picked one up along with their generic Tank Protector center pad, all in standard Stomp 'volcano' tread pattern [Stomp has 3 different tread patterns]. Careful test placement using blue paint-safe masking tape revealed that the 5th gen and 6th gen are very similar, but the 6th gen is larger on top. Cutting off the top 3 rows of traction bumps from the 6th gen Stomp kit resulted in a perfect match with the lines of the 5th gen tank. I lined up a metal ruler and braced it with a 1x3" board to achieve an angle to cut off the top 3 rows of traction bumps from the 6th gen tank side pad kit. Angling the cut created a bevel that imitates the tapered radius edge on factory Stomp products - the radius or bevel reduces the likelihood of the traction pad lifting from the edges, edges being the achilles heel of adhesive items. Take care to line up the start and finish of cuts, or, like me, you'll end up with tiny flares every 3-4" where you start another cut. Cut as far away from the row of traction bumps on the 'keep' side of the pad as possible - cut close to the row of bumps on the 'discard' side of the cut because having more flat area between the last row of bumps and the edge reduces the leverage the bumps can exert on lifting the edge. I chose to mask the entire outline of each piece of Stomp. I applied strips of tape to hold the pad in place and moved them as I masked around the perimeter, ending up with an exact outline of the Stomp piece exactly where I wanted it. I allowed 1/8" extra space outside the shape of the Stomp, as it does stretch slightly as you warm it with a heat gun and the 1/8" leaves room for stretching. Masking the entire outline also allows thorough, accurate application of primer. I primed the entire area - slopped it on. Earlier Stomp applications on my GSXR and dirtbike revealed that priming only the edges was not as sturdy or long-lasting as priming the entire area. Purchase enough primers - allocate 2 sticks per side panel, 1 for the center piece, and spares. Stomp sells them in packs of 4 primer sticks. The primers are not actually 'glue sticks', they contain a fluid that is released through a built-in applicator brush after you snap the tube at the dot printed on it. Sort of an adhesive glow stick activator. Let the primer dry thoroughly - it doesn't take long. Wear gloves to avoid adding any contamination to adhesive or surface. Begin at the most critical corner/edge [top rear in this case] and lay down one row of traction bumps at a time. Carefully press firmly between each pair of bumps along each row, starting at the middle of the row and working to the outside. Use occasional rewarming with heat gun and stretch gently - only if necessary - to keep the pad in proper position. Press hard, the adhesive on the pad likes pressure and warmth. Bubbles are very rare if you are careful, but if you do get one, remove the pad back to the bubble and begin pressing hard again at that point to eliminate the bubble. Peel the backing paper a bit at a time - only enough to keep up with the installation. Leaving the backing paper on as long as possible prevents contamination from adhering to the pad. A lucky coincidence was that the curve at the rear of the 6th gen tank side pads almost exactly matched the generic center pad. The tiny pockets of air visible in this photo get absorbed into the adhesive and disappear during the 24 hour curing period. Backstory: My 2001 5th gen came with an old school tank bra, which worked fine for touring and sport riding. But the tank bra wriggled and slipped around like an eel wrapped around my tank under hard braking the first time I had it on the track, so I removed the bra. Grip was better, but still had too much slip to absorb serious braking forces. I looked into Stompgrip because I had it on my GSXR1000 [Now sold and missed] and still have it on my dirtbike - it provides terrific grip. [Theory - braking forces throw your body forward, and the easy place to brace against these forces is through the arms and into the handlebars. The downside of transferring weight and force into the bars is that it either [1] upsets the bike's balance by adding unwanted, unsettling input to the steering mechanism at turn entry, and/or [2] stops the steering from settling into a neutral balanced state just after the critical point of turn entry. Gripping the tank with your legs and using your core muscles to absorb deceleration forces acting on the upper body offers vastly superior control and smoothness over pushing against the bars]