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atx

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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • In My Garage:
    In order of purchase: 86 vfr700, (96 vfr750 sold to Brother in law), 06 VFR800, 86 VFR400R

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  1. Never even considered that or had issues on the couple of these bikes i've done, but on the 400 i'll keep a close eye on the clamps for sure. Looks like a great list to me. Beefed up charging, good coolant plan, good carb plan, you should be ready to rock. I'd do a quick tclocks check and make sure the bike overall is set. I get so focused on a carb rebuild or whatever and want to rush to ride, but i have to remind myself that the chain etc should be checked haha
  2. Yeah i love plastex. You have to be careful with the liquid portion because it messes with the finish of plastic it touches, but otherwise it's super easy to use. I used to mix it in a little cup and goop it on like epoxy, but i saw some vid where they put the plastic powder right on the area for repair then dripped the liquid onto it, and have had good luck doing that and doing that way a little bit at a time. It will stink up the whole house if you do it inside, so be careful haha. I've not tried plastic welding setups before, those might be the way to go for bigger jobs, but this works well for my uses. I used it all over the back of my fairings to repair and strengthen cracks, left it thick because who cares on the back, and it has held up well. https://www.webbikeworld.com/plastex-plastic-repair-kit/ This page has a decent guide on what appears to be a rebranded version of it, i didn't try it this way either but looks good. https://www.polyvance.com/repair-broken-fairing/
  3. For years i kept mine in the closet stored safely, one in good shape, one with a broken ear, but no more! I want to enjoy life. I just recently plastexed mine back together and if they crack more i'll repair em again. Just looks so much cleaner now. If anyone has a decent fiberglass shop these could be reproduced i imagine, though yeah the prices would be nuts for such a small part... I'm with capn on the voltmeter though, with modern regrec bypassing the melty red connector going straight to it's own fuse and the battery, soldered stator leads, just ignore it. You can also mount one of the trick single LED meters if you want, i've also got one i've been meaning to install but I just haven't gotten around to it. https://gammatronixltd.com/ There's one mode where you tell it to be stealthy/off under healthy voltage so you'll only see the light when it's over/under preferred range so i won't have to shut it off to keep it from bugging you. I would really like to sneak in a tiny fuel gauge, something surface mount on top of a side panel for peace of mind. I can't seem to find any era appropriate looking ones though, or anything not huge and ugly. I found a tiny LED bar one that works on bikes with measurable hydrostatic pressure, but it won't work with our weird deep tanks that require pumps, i already asked if it would work with a float gauge(which we could get from 88/89 model and replace our low sensor) but it is not compatible. https://www.lskelectronics.com/store/FuelGaugePro-Bar-Graph-Display-Panel-Kit-p286787313 I just recently redid the carbs on my 700 and used the guide from Joe over at v4dreams and it worked a treat, such a great resource. All the tips i needed, though i did take a ton of pics of the my own from all angles just to make sure I wasn't messing anything up. http://v4dreams.com/maintenance.html I also read stuff bookmarked from magna forums that seems to work well for me: http://v4musclebike.com/articles/magnandy/Andy's Carb Cleaning Guide.pdf Setting the bench sync was easiest for me with a 1/8" wide strip of paper(found that tip on some random forum post), dragging that under the throttle plate on the nonadjustable one first and setting the idle screw, the setting the other 3 to match using the linkage adjusters. On the bike at first start the thing was super close right off the bat, barely needed any tweaking to get about perfect per the MotionPro Sync Pro tool i've got. I installed the metal fuel joints from vinscoottubes on ebay while I was at it, no more worrying about the plastic joints and old o rings. https://www.ebay.com/str/vinscoottubes
  4. Some bicycle lights i have gotten rid of because they have too many settings. I need high, low, bright blink, dim blink. If you haven't tried a helmet light, highly recommend. This unit has a blinky built into the back as well, but still bright enough for medium speed trail riding. When you're coming up over a hill you can see and be seen much quicker as the lights are as high as possible. Also one less thing to fuss with, just take your helmet with you when you get somewhere and the lights are attached to it. https://lightandmotion.com/collections/mountain-biking/products/vis-360-pro
  5. Haha wow, that "solution" is a fire hazard waiting to happen.
  6. Oh wow the angle of the back of those bags fits aroudn the stock blinkers quite well. What is the model of them?
  7. Yeah no pics of the handbuilt show, i just couldn't make time for it. The rest of the weekend at COTA was great though as usual. Here is an album of pics i took fri-sun at the track, i need a better zoom lens but i still always take way too many pics and then just cull out what sucks. http://imgur.com/a/HdjFm Next year i plan on taking the 86 to the track.
  8. Have you sold this beauty yet? Are you going to be at the hand built show again this year? Bummed i missed out on it last year...
  9. Yep yep, or even additional resistance in the wiring can cause the blinker timing to be different. Your standard flashers are load dependent, meaning they blink a certain speed based on a given load, that way when a bulb goes out it flashes faster and you know. The lazy way is to swap out to a load independent flasher like they use for when they switch over to LED's, no more problem, though then you wouldn't know when a bulb is out by the speed of the blink...
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