Welcome to VFRDiscussion

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

hellindustries

Members
  • Content count

    250
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

45 Excellent

About hellindustries

  • Rank
    Mr Princess
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire, UK.
  • In My Garage:
    2000 VFR 800fiy / Red

Recent Profile Visitors

1,767 profile views
  1. Probably. The CBR 600 pegs do fit. They look about the same as the 6th gen, if not exactly the same part.
  2. True. I use an equivalent product at work. Was planning to do just this. If i can get the bolts out, i'll just replace them anyway for good measure.
  3. You've probably got levers for the 6th gen.
  4. Maybe get some new OEM CBR 600 pegs and get them coated?
  5. That brake lever will not fit. Not ever. The mounting block is wrong. I used some PUIG levers for mine. But had to use the brake side mounting block from some ebay cheap levers (which came with the bike) to make it fit. Clutch side was fine.
  6. IF i can get them off without incident, i'd consider getting them blasted - But just as likely to sand them and get a wire wheel on them myself. Probably then just paint them with black VHT myself as it can get a bit costly and take too long to sort otherwise. I can deal with the bike being off the road for a few days, but i guess my stated time-frame is more for keeping the bench clear as i can't leave it on there overnight or the following day. It's just the wrong time of year to have my bike taking up space at work as we get pretty full with customer bikes and bikes needing my attention for the showroom. But it's also the time of year i want to do the work, so it's nice for the summer etc... Damned if i do, damned if i don't i guess... The major concern is that if the header bolts strip; It's a problem for two reasons: 1. I'd have stripped header bolts 2. I cannot fix that myself, and others in the workshop do not have time to help me with such an avoidable problem.
  7. No, i have a 6-8 hour window at most to do the work. I don't want to take the headers off if i can avoid it as i don't want to risk the header bolts. I also don't want to spend the extra on another set of used pipes. If i was going to do that, i'd get a new set from Delkevic with my ok-ish work discount.
  8. Well, the UK is GOOD at salt! It's very liberally applied during winter months. Then there's grit and gravel etc... Either way: Pipes looks shit. Will clean and see if i need to paint them, i guess.
  9. As for risk points: The standard stuff always applies: Chain & sprocket condition / Tyre condition / Signs of crash / Rust on exhaust or blowing / Clear signs of half-arsed wiring and mods / Brake pad condition - A bike with neglected basics often tells you the owner doesn't care much or can't afford to keep it properly, and this can be the case when it comes to servicing the bike. But specific to the VFR: Does it have a power commander? (could be a negative if not done properly) Has it had the valve clearances done at the right intervals? (16,000 miles, but often doesn't need it doing even then). What's the condition of the RR wiring? The RR is simple and quick to check by removing the rear panel and looking on the left side. Look for electrical problems / signs of heat damage etc - Starting the bike and checking the charge rate with even a cheap volt meter will help. Hell; Meet the seller or take the bike to a reputable garage of your choice / local to the bike for an inspection of some kind.
  10. The general advice i'd give you for buying any japanese bike on a budget would be: Ideally less than 40,000 miles Ideally with full service history ideally kept reasonably well. If it's none of the above; You'd be expecting to pay less and have room for negotiation. I can only give you UK/£ price estimates, but: If less than 40,000 miles / full service history (or at least very good partial) and in reasonable condition: £1500-£2500 If not: £1000-£1500 They don't sell for much, but they keep an average value quite well. As for dodgy mods etc: The service history or lack thereof will tell you that. If it's got none or patchy history: They owner/s may have just attempted to work on it themselves, and i'd either expect a cheaper bike or just not bother. If it's got very good or full service history and the owner didn't try anything other than slipping a can on or changing the levers? You're paying average to good money for one kept well, so will be worth it. You could always take a mechanic friend along, or maybe get it inspected at a garage of your choice. If it has partial history and the owner admits to self-servicing or you suspect it might be less than great; Well; There's an opportunity to get a cheap bike. But you take your risks.
  11. Because they've got so much surface rust they kinda don't look like they were ever stainless. Because i didn't know the stock pipes were stainless Because i don't know if they are the stock pipes or not But: If, when i clean them off, they are stainless and come up reasonably well: I'll not paint them.
  12. That's an interesting masking tip! Foil would hold itself out of the way where newpaper or cloth would sag in the way. Nice.
  13. I intend to strip the bike a bit to get best access to pipes and engine casing to clean the whole lot, especially the front section behind the front wheel. So i'll be cleaning the pipes and the engine at the same time. Has the added bonus of masking the engine off easier with a clean surface i can stick masking tape and stuff to. Good tip about warm pipes! I'll do that. I doubt i'll be able to cover 100% of the pipes due to access while mounted, but i'll get most of it. I do have access to emery paper, wire wool, various grades of sand paper, an air driven die grinder with wire wheel attachments, and a range of other tools, but those should do. Simple and quick is all that's required. I should be able to get the plumbers strips no problem. There are a couple of outlets within a few miles of home and work where i can get them.
  14. Ahh! A pro-tip! I'll get ahold of some of those. I'll try them on my bike or some other 'do what you can' headers which may come across my bench at work.
  15. I can do that with some of it, but a fair amount will still be the 'flossing' method. Especially around the back sides close to the engine. I can easily wipe it with maybe brake cleaner, maybe de-grease it in place with paraffin/Kerosene, then the brake clean to fully clean it. I do have wet-wipes. They're great. Especially after a particularly dirty job on a bike.