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Marooncobra

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About Marooncobra

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • In My Garage:
    6th Gen, 2002 VFR 800FI non ABS

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  1. 2003 VFR, No FI light, No engine turnover, won't start

    Is the main engine stop on your throttle cluster switched to on? Has the new battery got a charge? Get a multi meter and check its voltage. If good check, then check the battery connections as some batteries look identical but the terminals are switched over. Check there is no protective plastic covering the new terminals that you should have removed prior to installation. If all good from there, then start checking the fuses.
  2. 06 Motor into an 02 ??? I need some guidance

    Used the complete motor but the original throttle bodies from my 2002. I have a power commander with a modified cosi map, k&n and staintunes. May go and get it Dinoed to see if the vibration is through the mapping. As said, on my 2002 it was a smooth engine all the way through the rev range. Still have it in the garage so may end up putting it back in and sell the 2008 engine. 2002 has 54,000 km and the 2008 has 14,000 km
  3. 06 Motor into an 02 ??? I need some guidance

    I have just recently done this to mine, changed over to a low mileage 2008 from my original 2002. You don’t have to do anything different. All connectors, harness, hoses etc all fit. Only thing I have noticed is a vibration at around 4000 - 4700 which I didn’t have on the old engine. Engine pulls strong through all gears and rev range. Just annoying vibration. No damage to the replacement engine from the place I bought it but you never know if they changed over any parts to mask any road gravel damage.
  4. You remove the rear caliper and mount in the upright position to assist in bleeding the air out as all of the pipe work is higher than the bleed nipples and aids the removal of air. I actually cable tie the caliper to the rear grab handles to get it to its highest point.
  5. Ensuring you re-torque every bolt

    A Torque multiplier will be your friend there
  6. From your symptoms I would also suggest this is related to fuel starvation. Check the following: - float bowl needle valves can open fully and are not partially blocked with crud - main jets are clean - check any filter that is in the system between the carbs and the fuel tank - check the fuel tank vent to ensure the fuel can flow freely to the carbs - if you have a fuel stop cock, check that this free of any crud and allows full fuel flow. Good luck and let us know how you get on.
  7. So I might have done a thing......

    Veefer800Canuck What SPAL fan model number did you use and does it cover the same area as the oem fan? I tried to fit a SPAL fan on the right hand radiator but struggled to get it to fit due to the thickness of the fan motor. I can see from the photo that you have made an alumium frame to mount it? Nice work.
  8. Front brake uneven wear

    I would suggest that the pistons on that side of the caliper, brake pad with material left, require a good clean. Push all the pistons back into the caliper and then slowly pump the lever. I suggest the ones on the side where the pads are down to the base plate move first each time. If they all operate then check that the sliding mechanism is free to move, the rubbers haven't split and it hasn't gummed up.
  9. Mounting Shindengen SH847

    I tapped into a switched supply near the instrument cluster and mounted the meter on the side fairing area by the head stock. If you don't use a switched supply you will drain the battery if left for a long period as it will always be displaying your voltage
  10. changing your fan to a blower fan

    Sempfire I think most people swapped over to a VTR fan as it complements the flow of air whilst the bike is moving forward. Agree in static traffic the air being blown across the radiator is warm air off the exhaust etc. I know a fan is at its most effecient when drawing air across the radiator rather than blowing but a fan trying to pass air against forward motion is not effecient either.
  11. Mounting Shindengen SH847

    I fitted mine using an 8mm aluminium plate which also improves the heat shedding. Had to uss a plate as the hole orientation wasnt the same on Shindengen series r/r. Managed to fit it in the same plane as the original but 8mm further away from the frame. No spacing issues Constant 14.2 volts through all rev ranges including idle.
  12. 06 Fuel Pump Issues

    When you check for voltage at the fuel pump make sure you put the multi meter probes on the wires before switching the key on as the pump only works fof 2-3 sec initially and then stops until the bike starts. This maybe why you are getting a low reading if you are switching on and then connecting the leads to your meter. Fuel pump is located in the fuel tank and is accesible through the removal of 6 nuts under the tank. The whole assembly including pump, filter, fuel level gauge will then come out of the tank.
  13. New guy, to forum and to Hondas

    Yes they will and I would replace them with a taper bearing set as the OEM is a ball race. Notching of the headset is normally an indication of someone doing heavy wheelies I.e. Dropping the wheel back down heavily
  14. May be a binding brake piston that is holding the pad against the disc once you release the brake lever. The pad should always be in contact with the disc but with no pressure against it, hence the binding piston issue. Normally a quick clean up will resolve it but if not you may need to strip the caliber and clean the pistons with a real fine emery cloth to dislodge all of the crud. I normally do this once a year on all of the calipers. It really helps to give you sweet brakes
  15. Engine Temp @ 100C aka 212F @ 100KM/hr aka 60M/hr

    I would check your rad cap and if that doesn't work check the weep hole on your water pump to see if it is leaking past the seals. If both of them are good check your thermostat. It may be stuck closed or just partially open good luck and post once you find the problem
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