Grum

To our New Zealand and Aussie members. The celebration of ANZAC day is special to our hearts as we celebrate, honour, and remember those who gave their lives for the freedoms we have. Lest We Forget.

78

No doesn't need "resetting". Info... 1. With the Sidestand down Ignition to On, Kill switch to RUN any active fault code will be displayed. 2. When riding, if an active fault is detected, your Fi will illuminate full On but will not flash a code (Honda logic is not to have distracting flashing lights while riding). Only displayed as per 1. 3. Resetting you refer to is the method of erasing historical stored codes. These could be codes like the MAP or IAT sensors disconnected during the SV synch or genuine past stored faults that have since been rectified.

Just my two cents worth, I hope others with more experience in this area might chime in. Interesting question. SV synch is fundamental to good even idle, and smoothness in the small throttle opening zone, a mechanical setting, adjusted at normal operating temp, without the influence of the fast idle Wax Unit, and butterflies closed. Stands to reason this should be carried out first along with correct warm idle adjustment of 1200rpm. Assuming badly balanced SV's, and especially during the cold start enrichment phase, a slight touch of the throttle opening and the added air might cause a stall. I know of a similar effect (possibly in both hot and cold modes) on a 5gen. a faulty signal from the TPS at low throttle was measured, but not bad enough to force an Fi DTC. The whole throttle body was replaced and problem solved. All warm engine ops are normal according to Shane the OP. Perhaps signals from MAP and/or ECT are marginal at cold temps and might need checking. Watching the Wax unit action on the Starter Valves, and if the movement is smooth and gradual from cold fast idle to the warm Idle, you can then discount the Wax Unit causing any problems.

Haha yep, vented relief I hope, horrible that blocked breather feelin, just gotta get that gas out!

Great news Duc. Speedy recovery. I fully understand the frustration from post operative blues of not being able to ride for lengthy periods. Nice partnership with your mate, rider training in exchange for bike help. I find it one of the joys of motorcycling, always learning and refining technique and smoothness, whether or not I achieve my goal is debatable! Great motorcycle porn shots! Guess you'd never want a faulty "trigger finger" with a six shooter in your hand! Take care and best regards.

Oh dear! I feel your pain, sounds like you've done a lot of guessing and not much measuring, at least you have some good spares! Such a shame you tossed the Ignition Switch. As far as I know that zener diode security function wasn't on Australian bikes. Either our American friends might be able to advise on a replacement, Or a bit of clever wiring to the standard three wire switch adding the appropriate 3.9v zener diode to the Pink wire and other end to the Red/black IG 12v Switched wire(zener diode polarity needs to be correct). As mentioned you need to get 9v on the Pink wire to enable the ECM. See attached. Get some advice from a good Technician on the best way to do this if you are unsure. The symptoms for this device Not working is - Fi Light fully On, and No Fuel Pump prime. Good luck.

You may Sir........ Copied this info from the 8gen. posting "Vent System - Update" from 2021. Assume the VFR800X has the same filler cap and vent system. Beware the tank vent hose! Pressure Relief - The common noise we all have heard, and as one member puts it "sounds like the Fuel Pump is priming with power off" or just a few second buzz, fluttering or gurgling sound. This is coming from the Pressure Relief Valve in the filler cap as the tank pressure builds and overcomes the spring tension on its valve. This process will continue to repeat any time slight positive pressure builds in the tank. As you stop a warm engine the heat transfer to the tank causes this to happen more frequently and if you open the filler cap in between the venting you'll always get a very slight pressure relief. Vacuum Relief - Negative Pressure relief also has to overcome slight valve spring pressure as the fuel level drops while riding. On cold days when topping up your tank you may notice very slight suction as you open the tank cap. So depending on temperatures and riding conditions it is Normal to have either slight Vacuum OR slight Pressure as you open the cap. The emphases being SLIGHT. Blocked, Kinked or crushed Breather Hose = DANGER! The problem with the 8gen is the first 12 inches or so of small diameter breather hose. When the Fuel Tank is raised to the maintenance position, the hose is pulled up through a lot of piping and general clutter in this area. If this hose is not manually pulled outwards at the small to large hose coupling taking up the slack as the tank is lowered, you run the chance of a blocked kinked breather hose. The nasty effects of a blocked breather cannot be overstated on these bikes! - Strong Vacuum, can make it impossible to open your filler cap. The Fuel Pump has enough strength in increasing the vacuum while riding to physically damaging your tank, bending the sides inwards. - Whilst having the bike in the sun strong positive pressure can distort the underneath of the tank deforming it outwards. Or virtually blasting the filler cap open as you unlock it. Any signs of strong pressures, negative or positive when opening the filler cap is a warning to check the breather hose.

All done. PM replied.

Doesn't the barrel of the switch separate from the wired base? Couldn't a locksmith help you out, I'm sure they could fish the broken key from your original? Yes, anti theft function, if you have the Pink wire and zener diode this sends 9v to the ECM to enable it, 12v or Zero = Dead ECM.

Hi M8. I definitely do but it's a 13meg .jpg file. I thought I uploaded it to the forum a few years ago can't find it. Tried to attach to this but file too big Using photoshop elements I managed to splice together a number of sections of drawings creating a nice hi res complete color drawing. Can you PM me an email address? Think email will cope with up to 20meg

No mate not normal. "I did what you said." Excellent, I'm glad the FPR wasn't leaking! Have a close check of all the Throttle Body vacuum hoses, look for any small cracks or damage, especially make sure All the hoses for the MAP sensor are good. - Any Fi fault codes? - How old are the Spark Plugs? - What fuel is currently in the tank? Octane, Ethanol level and how old?

Wow, nearly 236,000 faultless kilometres, great testament to Honda reliability, nice looking bike. Hope the 1200 lives up to the enjoyment and durability you've had with the NC700X. Sure hope my 2014 8gen VFR can live up to that mileage - I have no future replacement plans for my VFR, now at over 96,000kms. Cheers

Sounds like you might have a bit of stiction with the Wax unit linkages, etc. Try cleaning and lubricating all linkages, a spray of some WD-40. See if that makes any difference. You might also benefit from a Starter Valve Synch procedure. While you're in that area. Pop the vacuum hose off the FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator, check the hose is dry and no weeping of fuel from the FPR vac hose fitting. Weeping fuel = Ruptured diaphragm. And.......Download the Service Manual from the forum if you don't already have it.

Some good voltage checks especially around the ESR, voltage on fuse test points Ignition On and Off, visual inspections for strange wiring, continuity check of Ignition Switch function. Are all good starting points. Download the Service Manual form the forum if you don't have it. May the Force be With You....There's plenty of info to get the ball rolling, very interested in what you may discover, post photos. Strangest VFR fault I've ever heard of!