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  1. Engine Mounts And Vibration

    Now...after a year I had a chance to replace the clutch basket. with keeping my inner parts in it. The mechanic said, it is now almost like an S4 engine, however the new basket is also a used one. He couldn't find anything else, however checked the valve system, the chain and tensioner, and cleaned the injectors too. Next he remounted my clutch basket and that rattling vibration from 4000RPM was coming again. So I might need a new basket? By the way, a second symptom, the mechanic checked the tempr. of the exhaust ports with camera during the possible root cause detection. He found the rear cylinders are running on 270C while, the front 180C. Does any of us have experience with it????? Is it normal difference? After valve clearance check and injector cleaning the tempr. difference was still there. Then he mixed the spark plugs and then the other electric components. This tempr. difference is now slightly less, but still exists.... and it is not due to the wind speed. (The coolant was changed two years ago according to the manual, the thermostat and the radiators works well. 80-95C on roads. The fan starts at 102C and cools down till 96C. Fuel consumption 5-5.5L/100km.)
  2. Engine Mounts And Vibration

    Did any of us finally find the root cause and could eliminate the vibration??? Unfortunately my 6.gen's vibration manner did not change so far. However I managed to find and ask the best expert of these v4s in the local VFR club. He checked the bike in the service and made a short test ride speeding on the local road. But he found it OK. He said: could dismount the engine and verify all the components with high effort, and change the complete sealing set. But hardly can imagine if finding any trouble.... But I still feel, mainly on the main roads or on the highway, I would say: when sitting on a 240kg electric shaver! High freq. vibration comes from engine, frame, bars, pedals and seat when cursing at 5000RPM or higher:( I try to get another bike for a comparison test run, and his rider has to check both bikes. I have no idea, and I am sad.It is a common issue, or I feel it too dangerous. Last weekend I made a test run on the highway. 80km at 7-8k RPM in - 4. gear. I also added Liqui Moli injector cleaner for this ride, but no improvement till now. ..might come later? The vibration was rather serious all the way, made me thinking about safety. I can't imagine if Honda did accept is for serial. In chopper/touring mode, of for a short dynamic run its hard to find but it is an issue when speeding in touring sport mode. (my tyres, chain set, oil are renewed but did not help)
  3. Quickshifter

    Could you tell me which controllers would be the "Number 3 is OEM controls & some add-on fuel/ignition controllers"? I can find only those simple ignition controllers and the power commanders.
  4. How to replace old side cowl screw?

    Ok, but how could you prove the friction will be enough not to loose the bolt later? 2Nm is not to much, what I found in the repair manual. The required safe torque should be adjusted if we use some compound. But on the other side the bolt's clamp load will increase, and how far it is from Alu, the thread can be plastic overloaded. I work in the car industry with these kind of fixations, and I would say these bolts of the cowls are not too robust design. My bike is 10 years old, and these Alu bolts, rubber bushings and plastic pins are getting old a bit:( However my bike in mainly in the garage and have to work on the bolts max. once in a year. I wonder, how the rear plastic fairing and fixation can withstand the vibration from the v4 engine and exhaust, what is massive feeling on the seat and the pedals, too.
  5. Quickshifter

    Healtech offers this ignition cutter interruption time-RPM adjustable system also for VFR800. That nice flame from the mufflers and pop, wouldn't mean long lift for the catalytic converter. That 60ms, I would repeat 100x on an afternoon ride, can make trouble. Not speaking about the petrol when washing the engine oil from the cylinder in those interruptions-->contamination the oil and increase friction of the piston. I spoke to their local dealer, who first offered this QS for my stock VFR, but when asking about this possible issue with the catalytic converter, the dealer preferred their home made injection cutter device instead. But its weakness:non RPM adjustable, so they could set its interruption to one engine speed:(
  6. Quickshifter

    Not so critical...knocking the helmets, but by Clutchless-throttle off shifting makes it smoother. I thought some QS could be more professional.....and I like the GP Hondas how smooth they are speeding out from a corner:) Of course with QS my VFR would never be the Repsol bike and I would like to do it moderate dynamic. But I have problems with the http://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/qse/ How the catalizator will suffer when getting some unburned petrol in the ignition cup gear up 100ms??? A local dealer sad, Yes would be better their self brand and cutting injection instead. But they have only a simpler, constant cutter system. They will set it to the bike on the pad, but now RPM wise like Healtech. And they could not set the lever force limit either. Since they are not so cheap, and I would shift up 3000-6000RPM, I would prefer some adjustable controller like Healtech.
  7. Flushing Coolant System

    No. I did it Cold...as Haynes and an other Honda VFR 800 repair books said. First I simply drained the old coolant opening both drain screws and the radiator cap. Then I plugged in the drain holes and filled up full with anti calc water. Then I drained the water through both holes filling some extra water, while the old coolant color changed to transparent water. Also drained and cleaned the reservoir tank. Then I drained system complete. Then I filled up full with new coolant also the reservoir tank. Then I warmed up till 100C with some throttle pulses. Later I checked and filled up the radiator cap and the reservoir to max. Then I warmed up till 100C in 10km. Later I checked the radiator cap and filled up to top on side stand again. In sum, I filled in 3L Motocool Expert. I checked the coolant quality-->-30C, on the bottle it was -37C. Haynes said: new coolant must be replaced in two steps. I did it once after washing with water trough. 2. loop would have gone closer to -37C, but I think complete draining would be only possible by removing the radiators and coolant pipes...
  8. How to replace old side cowl screw?

    Finally I drilled the side cowl screw head after checked the dia of a new screw. It went OK. Then I could easily unscrew the thread from the cowl holder with a clamping tool.
  9. Quickshifter

    Can you help me, if the ignition cutter type QS, like Healtech, can work well on my stock gen6. 2006 VFR800 bike? Or the catalizator would suffer from the unburned petrol during up-shifting? Or injection cutter QS would be better? In general, riding in touring mode with passenger 3500-6000RPM, this kind of shifting process can smoother the torque pulsing? How the gears can accept it w/o clutch in long time? Some riders shift up simply w/o clutch and closing throttle. Is it healthy for the gearbox? I also tried it, but 3-->4 was difficult. Or was I slow or RPM was not enough?
  10. How to replace old side cowl screw?

    thanks It is an original Honda Imbus head bolt. I went to the dealer and bought a pair of new. But the holder on the frame is only a sheetmetal Z shape and if I push or hammer it hard, it is bending to the frame. I looked the shape of the new bolt, its neck under the head is rather big 8 or 10mm. So I need a bigger drilling tool. I have to drill it, since the inner form is so rounded, I can not apply torque trough it.
  11. Hi The form in head of one side cowl screw, what is mounted in the metal holder below the plastic cowl is now off. It is so tight mounted, was not possible to open with my new tool, either:( I have already purchased a new screw for our Dealer. Do you have any advise, how to open and replace this screw and not to damage the painting of the side cowl?
  12. Flushing Coolant System

    2006A model - How much old coolant should I drain (did it when the bike is cold, on main stand, I drained from water pump and also the front cylinder with open cap, and let it drop)? I just did it last week. Then I filled up with anti calc water and drained, so I got clear water, not more the green Honda Liquid. I also washed the reservoir, since it was inside a bit old/green/dirty. Finally I filled up still in cold state trough the radiator cap + the reservoir till max level with Motocool Expert. In sum only 3L (the manual said 2.92L+0.9L )! Then I made an engine warm up with some RPM+5000 peaks. When I checked the cap was still full and found extra 8mm in reservoir tank too. I also checked: cooler now started at 106C (earlier at 102C) Was it normal? Does it mean, I still have 1L old coolant in? Or some anticalc water
  13. How Quickly Does Your First One Drop?

    my 06 bike is pretty linear. 50-55km/bar. If filled on side stand, the first bar can go after 40km.
  14. Thanks for your answer. My goal is not to crash the bike when practice. I want only check is the system is ok, and to be prepared if the deer would run... The ABS when "clicks in" makes a multi purpose pulsing effect on the lever arm under my like the pedal in the cars while the friction is less than my brake force?
  15. Hi Could you describe for me how the ABS should work on my 06.VFR800A? How can it be tested if regarding front and rear tires this function is ok together with dual CBS? What should I hear or feel some feedback from the rear pedal or the front lever arm this time??? I know the abs system comes to action from 10km/h an higher. I tried my bike some times if it is ok, but I can not get any sign. When I push only the rear pedal really hard, the bike is stable and slow down well w/o any tire lock, but w/o any feedback from the pedal. I visited a Honda dealer and the tried the bike riding slow and at 40km/h on a rather dirty road but could not detect how it is working..if working. They did not seem to be expert.

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