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dozyproductions last won the day on February 16

dozyproductions had the most liked content!

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32 Excellent

About dozyproductions

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider
  • Birthday 12/06/1987

Profile Information

  • Location
    San Diego
  • In My Garage:
    98' vfr 800

Recent Profile Visitors

1,866 profile views
  1. Question before I go out in the lot in the 90+ weather ;) . Is there any obvious ground spots on the rear subframe or battery box that I would of missed? Both of those surfaces were either painted or powder coated. I don't remember any. I've looked at corrosion, connectors and fuses just now and it all looked good. Will take another peak.
  2. Still the same
  3. Atm Fuel pump plug: positive .1v / negative 0v Blue plug next to fuel pump pluge: positive 0v/ negative 5v Fuel cut relay: .1v all around the board Engine cut relay: red/orange - .38v, black/white opposite: battery voltage purple(pink)/black - 0v, black/white opposite: .1v Fuse B: battery voltage While I was at it, I removed paint off of the ground on the fuel pump plug so that was good. Where do I go next?
  4. That's a good methodology. Will go 'down stream today', especially in the better light, and check again. A shout out to SCguy in helping me out last night in trying to find the problem. We determined it wasn't the pump, but through my amateur hour ;) , couldn't determine which relay it was. The powder coating is definitely one of the constants that have been changed, ground wise, so will make sure that's a detail that isn't missed. Thanks fellas
  5. Thanks Terry At the moment I know that the blue connector, I presume, that goes to the fuel pump is showing <5v. Connector looked clean enough to me. Unfortunately all I did was blow in to it and slab some of that dialectic grease in the connection. And when we're talking about checking the wires are we talking about, when disconnecting the relay's and such, connecting the leads from the voltmeter to the leads to the connector?
  6. At the ignition turned, I'm reading 4.98v at the connectors of the blue connection under the fuel tank. Dumb question but where does it need to be? Same as everywhere else and at 12.4 ish? There was a wiring diagram posted a couple pages back... Have to be honest, I'm going to have to google just to figure out how to read it. Can it be that if something benign is disconnected, the fuel pump could just not prime? edit: Not going to lie, after watching some videos, I haven't properly checked the fuel pump relay nor can I (don't have the extra jumper cables).
  7. Thanks fellas. Going to get started Edit: can you tell me a bit about jumping the pump and how I'd go about that? First, the blue connector.
  8. Got the new battery. Got the front fairing in place. Repainting and clearing the left side mirror stock base But, the same problem is persisting. The fuel pump problem still persists. Battery reads at 12.24V. I can turn the key, all the lights go on, the bike kicks but doesn't turn over all the way. This time around I have the tip sensor installed properly, and everything seems to be in order. When I turn the key, I don't get any prime whine. Really don't want to pay $40 for a tow and $100 for a shop to tell me the pump is dead but I'm getting to that point where that option is getting more appealing. Will check again to see if the sensor is installed correctly and if power is actually getting to the pump etc.
  9. Today was spent getting getting some of the last nuts and bolts that were needed. Most of the stuff will be done tomorrow with the aim of getting it running. The main thing holding me back is the battery. The shorai lithium battery all of a sudden became 'toast' and it doesn't make sense to return it for %50 off rebate at this date and time. I bought an oem 'replacement' for less than $30 (vs. $80 at o'reilys) and it should be coming tomorrow. Today -secured the tip sensor -bought the m.00000000002 screws for the voltmeter ;) -fix the rear lock that secures the backside of the seat -fixed the stuck accelerator. It ended up being the powder coat. If anyone want some links for what it could of been then here are some: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/70388-throttle-cables/http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/archive/index.php/t-1145459.htmlhttp://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-technical-discussion/140976-aftermarket-bars-causing-throttle-issue-3.html Tomorrow -Install the front fairing. -figure out if the voltmeter is working. The previous screws were rusted. The new ones should be a little bit more conductive. -fix the rear helmet lock. (wd-40 it today. going to let it sit over night) -properly install the front dash. The problem is that the rubber stops that provide shock resistance are missing for 2 of the 3 posts. Fortunately there's some old hoses. Going to cut some pieces at the right length and use those pieces instead. -install the chain guard. Really want to wet sand it from 2000 - 2500 - 3000 and then buff (if I can... hence 3000 grit). It's way too shiny now and after a good sanding and buff, the piece should be less conspicuous. - most importantly, get the damn thing running. when the battery was reading 8.67 volts, the bike would semi turn over even if the fuel pump wasn't exactly prepping. fingers crossed tomorrow.
  10. SHADILAY MY FRIENDS. What still needs to be done -fix the sticking problem with the trottle. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN DO FOR THAT? The bike isn't rideable till that can be fixed. Really don't want to sand down nice PC parts but it seems that the new handle bar is just too thick for it too fit. (wish I heard that from my ladies) -fix the rear lock that holds the rear part of the seat. It doesn't want to fully engage. Hearing a click but no cigar. Spring is bad? The wire is bad? It's installed wrong? We'll see but this comes to the next issue -fix the left rear peg lock. It merely doesn't want to turn. Admittedly I haven't sprayed any wd-40 on it. I suspect that powder coating it might have affected it from the back side. Will see. -get some nuts for the damn bolts for that damn tip position sensor in the front. -get some screws for the voltmeter and the switch for it. -polish the front headlight and the newly painted chain guard. The old painter was going to "fix"/ aka polish my last pretty good attempt to paint the guard and instead fracked it pretty well with crappy primer. -install front fairing, rest of the dash and mirrors. Really excited because this color POPS; way more in person than it ever can in the pictures. The Honcati level has been achieved. This is definitely upper middle class status ;)
  11. Yeah if there isn't anything to repair and the surface isn't too bad then you're fine. Good paint, decent gun and a clean enough area should do the trick. The paint process itself took 30 minutes max haha. A dirty area just means you have a lot of wetsanding and polishing to do. God, it'd be great to have a garage again and to gerry rig a booth. Post some pics if you can! Update on battery. It's dead. The whole return process has already started so that's always a plus. In the meantime, anyone recommend a cheap battery? A friend is suggesting putting the tail between the legs and going to walmart. Supposedly o reily's, near my house, has moto batteries too. Will have to find a new one. Any ideas on the accelerator? Sand down the pc? grease it up? curse loud enough?
  12. Wow, now that's one mind numbing and angering story and sorry you had to go through it. It's a wonder how these guys still stay in business. What were the type of excuses he was giving you? My new painter finished within 3 days and told me that the original painter used low quality paint. It was still of a puddy like consistency and there were multiple runs that I didn't catch. I've learned there are some certain steps to do and look out for. 1. make sure he has a shop. than there's, presumably, some pressure to turn out good work to pay the rent. 2. look at the work he's working on or has drying/displayed at the shop 3.make sure he takes his work and YOU seriously 4. ask what type of brand and what quality of paint and clear are for the price you'll be paying. 5. check on yelp/google reviews and see any feedback on forums/facebook 6. dont pay in advance Before cycle gear closes, I'll call them to see if the charge has actually held and increased to bump up that voltage. If it's a nein than it's time to a buy a new battery. Literally every other electric thing has been checked and every connection loved with some dielectric grease. The battery SHOULD be it... the bike kind of turned over for a second a couple of times sporadically. Once the battery is taken care of and the bike starting, the rear brake spring is received and installed than there isn't anything, atm, that I can tell that's really stopping me from putting on the plastics. Another unknown problem that needs to be tackled is the throttle return function. Can still turn the throttle, it just doesn't come back on its own. Off the handle bar, it works. Hypothesis: the powder coated handle bar has made it just thick enough to where the mechanism, on the handle bar, is getting stuck. Check out the difference with the previous color and now. Not like you can really tell with the lighting difference but tada!
  13. Got the new paint job done and it was done with the original oem color. wow, just loving the it. Any of you in the SD area, hit up David at SBK paint. He let me sit in the booth with him it was just really cool to see the process again. Anyhoo, now that the battery has been charged, 1.5 gallons of gas has been put in, dielectric grease has been put in all the connections, fuses have been checked, everything has been put in, tip sensor upright; the bike doesn't start. Fuel pump doesn't prime and I'm not getting any clicking from any relays or nothing. I read some threads from this forum with this very issue and I've done most of the steps that I could do. Beyond replacing fuses and relays, it's been a mystery. Checked the battery with the voltmeter. 8.67 reading. Going to cycle gear to get it charged. Hoping for the best, expecting the worse kind of thing. here as she sits.
  14. The lock is working a little better now. I put some graphite lubricant around the lock area and it's as good as new. I'm going to go and recharge the battery and then bolt up the tip over switch properly. Hopefully this will fix the situation. Really appreciate the help on that Kev. In other news, I had it with my painter. That tank had some pretty noticeable blemishes. When I took it back to him I dented and scratched it up something good so he would be charging me $250. That's a fair price but for a job that took him over 3 months to do and with an incorrect and non stock color; I no longer have any faith in him to give me a decent product back. I'm picking up the rest of the fairings and tank tomorrow and bringing it to another shop (SBK paint) and they'll finish the entire thing, with OEM color paint, for $500 and a glass finish. The original painter is giving me shit about how I've put him in a bad spot and how I'm (sarcasm) a 'solid guy'. It's like a bad break up. I'm moving to Poland in a month and I thought I would have over 2 months of decent riding before selling this bike but, nope. I wont be able to ride the bike and will barely be able to sell the thing before leaving. The amount of stress this guy has given me is unreal. The new painter said he'll finish all of it within less than a half a week because he's a real biker and, after hearing my story, he said he'll do anything to help a brother out. I've seen his work and it's simply amazing with a usual short turn around time as it is. Literally am smoking hookah, cigarettes, and the other stuff just to keep my anxiety down. Use my situation as a warning for anything you might plan in the future. Spend the extra 200-300 dollars on some one who isn't just 'some guy' that will do a good job and isn't made out of excuses. This blog wouldn't have taken so long if I didn't skimp out in the first place.
  15. Thanks man. Was trying to figure out if any of those was helping my bike from not starting. Perhaps from 4 months of inactivity it doesn't want to start up?