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Knight

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Knight last won the day on April 26 2016

Knight had the most liked content!

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About Knight

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    World Superbike Racer
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  • Location
    USA
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800

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  1. Having had a stuck open thermostat and run at that 65°C mark in cold weather myself, the bike had no performance issues. I do not think that the ECU rich warm-up mode is enough to dump the amounts of fuel that you are seeing. I could be wrong. Have you ridden this bike much since you built it? Is this a brand new problem? Your description sounds like it is a new problem from the cold riding, but I thought that I would get clarification and not make assumptions. If the injectors came off of a bike with a significantly dirty tank, maybe they are all in fact stuck open. (?) Given that all cylinders show a problem, could there be a significant vacuum leak in the intake? If you use four gauges to tune the starter valves, are the vacuums similar to the book spec or otherwise significantly low? (Guys are there other vacuum tests?) Is the fuel pump OEM, aka the pressure is not excessive? If this had a cat then I would ask if that was blocked, but otherwise cannot think of airflow restrictions on the exhaust side.
  2. http://www.puigusa.com/tuning-bikes/honda-vfr800-2002/c171en/m966/ They show two for the sixth gen, "racing" and "touring". Part 1097 is the racing screen. It seems to be a current product and available from different suppliers. They call the dark one black with a code 1097N. Is that it?
  3. Oh no! The flowers are devouring that poor bike! Pretty soon it will be gone forever. I can't bear to watch. Oh the humanity!
  4. Bump.
  5. The noise at idle: Search this site and youtube for audio of a bad vfr800 cam chain tensioner. Does the sound match what you are hearing? Or record your bike and post a Youtube video here for others to examine. A 2002 needs cam chain tensioners periodically, right around your mileage of 28,000 miles. If that is the problem, it is standard maintenance and it is not the end of the world.
  6. Rads are hot - oh okay it sounds like flow is normal. So, short of an infra red thermometer, perhaps a meat thermometer would reach the radiators through the screen? I would try that with Terry's test. Only this can tell you if another stuck thermostat is keeping it too cool, or otherwise if this is how this bike wants to run (on the freeway I presume?) during 17°C weather.
  7. As a reference, with a stuck open thermostat, my 5th gen would hit 38C in say 3 minutes on a 75°F day at 3,000 RPM. That is slow because it had to warm up all of the water in the rads. You did not give times but I get the impression (correct me) that your engine runs a lot longer to get to 44-64C, and the rads are still ambient temperature, correct? This sounds different from the typical stuck-open thermostat problem, which would warm up the rads. This sounds like the temperature sensor is heating up due to the conduction of heat through non-moving coolant. So the temp reading only reflects the localized temperature at the sensor, but the rads are cool and the engine head is extremely hot. This sounds like air is trapped, the thermostat is stuck closed, or the pump is not moving coolant. A theory: If there is no flow or the thermostat is filled with air, the overheating could have seized up the prior thermostats. AKA replacing the thermostat was treating the symptom, but the the root cause remains. Are there flow tests (pump/thermostat) in the factory service manual? Is it possible for a radiator to be completely blocked?
  8. Did you have the tank up after removing the bike from storage? Did a hose such as a vent hose get crimped? That could generate vacuum only after the engine has run for a few minutes, and the vacuum can dissipate when the engine is off. When it is acting up, open the tank with another key. Does it produce a "whoosh", relieving the vacuum and temporarily fixing the problem? There is the possibility of a bad ground. The ground voltage builds up but has time to discharge when the bike is off, returning to zero volts. You'd have to inspect all input wires to the ground blocks for looseness/corrosion/burns to catch the offending circuit. Are the headlights on during the problem time as they should be? I am unsure if the surplus power of failed lights could cause immediate issues, but just a screwball thing that came to mind. (I am not sure of your country's configuration, ours headlights are on 100% of the time.)
  9. Here is a great post with pics of the wax unit disassembled:
  10. I am sorry to hear about this. Note that many of us have been stranded, and of course are rooting for you. How many miles have you put on since the last repair?
  11. In the service manual it indicates for valve installation to install the valve, tighten the lock nut, then adjust the valve inward. Is the lock nut that seats the valve against the hole loose? The manual indicates only 1.3 ft-lb for that nut. Maybe it needs that bit of snugness before the thread catches?
  12. Check the air box for a rodent nest. Maybe his area has more homeless mice? Has he done any maintenance to the bike? You may want to list items here. If the tank has been up, then the vent hoses may be at risk of getting crushed from being out of position and now generating vacuum that holds the fuel back. Although the fact that it recovers without opening the tank makes me think this is not it.
  13. The owners manual and service manual specifically state to run the bike for several minutes, let it settle for a couple minutes, then check the oil. It appears that Honda wants the hot state, with the oil galleys somewhat filled, as the reference point.
  14. The man is a saint...