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VFROZ

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VFROZ last won the day on July 22 2016

VFROZ had the most liked content!

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About VFROZ

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider
  • Birthday 12/26/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2001 VFR800

Recent Profile Visitors

3,337 profile views
  1. I guess its only a problem if you look at the indicator. I've never had one, and to be honest I can't see the point of one. I change gears when I need to, So it depends if looking at the dial is more important then the gearing on the bike. I swapped my rear because I wanted more get up and go, and I found 1st gear too tall for how I ride.
  2. Make sure you post pictures. I'm interested to see if its any better then the stock fan.
  3. From the album My 2001 VFR800

  4. I originally went one down on the front on my 01, but later changed to 2 up on the rear which I like a lot more. 1 down on front makes chain closer to swingarm guide which is not very good. Can't see how it would have anything to do with gear change indicator. I love it the way it is now.
  5. That is a very nice bike, not sure about the twin pipes though. I can vouch for the Rosso III's (not II's) better then PP3's in my opinion, they are fantastic, will definetly quicken your steering. Get your suspension set up, I'm sure that is all your problems.
  6. Not if you use both lines to new rear master. I used a 2010 CBR250RR rear master and only had to drill out the threads from mounting holes, length was spot on.
  7. If you're seeing 239, I think you need a major clean out/new thermostat.
  8. Nothing will stop the 5th gen running hot in traffic. Some things help, but only mrginally. I have the 6th gen right side radiator, and the fan overide switch. Left side radiator is doable, but not without lots of mods. TLR radiator, I can't see how you could get it to fit. Same for right side radiator fan, not easy. My opinion is best bang for buck was the overide switch. I will try reverse fan blade if I find one, but not expecting much. Last time I swapped with my mates CBR1100XX on a hot day, his bike was running just as hot as mine.
  9. After replacing springs to 0.95kg/mm, I went to a local well known suspension builder for a front high flow compression piston replacement and custom shim stack. It was crap, went back, still crap. Decided I could do better, or at least, no worse. My end shim stack/oil choice was much better (many times dismantling forks and experimenting), but could not get it to what I thought it was capable off. Then I went the VTR lowers (with the rebound adjustment) and 954 calipers. I then went with high flow rebound pistons/shim stack, it was much better still (more times dismantling forks and experimenting). This actually helped the compression stack a lot more then I realized it would. Now I have great suspension and even greater brakes. But I can now notice the fork flex when pushed hard. If I started from scratch again, I would go the 43mm swap, a bit more money but well worth it in my own opinion (not as much as going UD forks, and better geometry). I received a lot of help from members here, specially Terry. Getting ready made internals is an easy step, and JD has a good reputation in this forum, but I now realize how much doing it myself taught me about suspension. If you have a bit of mechanical knowledge/time, and good tools, it's not too hard to do. If you don't have a feeling for lack off or too much rebound/compression damping, it might be better to get it ready made. Suspension is very personal. Nobody can build you the perfect suspension for you, they can only give you something that is ok for most, after that they need your feed back. Either way, anything is better then stock (badly undersprung, badly damped). Rear is even worse, but you really need to do both together, they need balance for good handling.
  10. The PP3's are a great tyre. I used 3 sets of Z8's before that and was very happy with them. Long life and great grip wet or dry but wanted something sportier. 11000km from rear and 13000km from front on average. When I changed to PP3's, I lost longevity but got more feel and faster turn in. Went through 2 sets of those. 8000km from rear and 10000km from front. I've now swapped to Rosso III's and can't praise them enough. They make the bike feel lighter, and the steering more responsive. The ability to feel the road and hold a line is also better, probably due to the steep profile and softer carcass. No idea on mileage yet. Only 2000km so far.
  11. Good job mate, they are getting harder to find.
  12. If you're getting 1250 from PP3's, you should go for a touring tyre. I really liked the PP3's, but only got 10000km from the front and sides were worn smooth, and 8000km from the rear which was very evenly worn. I don't commute, mostly weekend fun. On Rosso III's at the moment, and like them even more, makes the bike feel lighter.
  13. She washes her car? man you found yourself a keeper
  14. 65*C is too cold and would explain running rich, mine never gets below 78*C even in winter. But the "running like a pig below 6000" is a worry, that sounds like air or fuel problem. Thermostat could be the culprit, Replacing it is a pain, but not too hard once you've removed TB's a few times. I did my injectors while in there, and replaced all the hoses and O rings, didn't cost that much. $160 to get the injectors cleaned, flowed and rebuilt, and around another $100 from memory for thermostat, O rings and short hoses. Make sure you get the thermostat housing O ring when you buy it, you will need it.
  15. It will be interesting to hear your report on what he adds.