Mohawk

Well stock RC45 gears were used by non factory teams as normal with chain sprocket ratio changes only. Factory teams would have specific ratio boxes made to assist if WSBK rules allowed for that back in the day. But AFAIK they never had a cassette gearbox, so would have had to strip engine to change ratios !? Either way the boxes are strong. Stories of damaged gearboxes on RC46 VFR's are rare.

Bummer just had my wheel ultrasound tested & it does not look good. Tester recommended not to use it. ☹️

The RC46 crank case & major assemblies are taken directly from the RC45 which in final race trim was putting out 195rwhp @ 14K/rpm. The only major parts difference was the pistons & Ti conrods & the crank+cams being timed differently. The big bang RC45 crank is timed at 0 degrees, such that it acts like a pair of V-twins joined together. And the 2mm shorter stroke allowed for the higher race RPM. That setup creates huge loads, the VFR's 180 degree crank is much kinder to the cases & bearings. Due to the total lack of RC45 crank case spares, race teams use 5th gen crank cases with the swingarm pivot ground off. They then bolt straight in to RC45 frame and all RC45 innards just drop in.

To fix my lack of rear wheel a little research shows the disc mount for the 400 & 800 are common. So I have a stock 800 axle off with a local engineering firm to reduce its length & add a new threaded section to allow me to fit my refurbed custom cush drive & bought a stock wheel to use until my carbon one is repaired. Pics when I get it back.

So as the rear end is in bits due to my rear wheel issue, I decided to refurb the VFR400 NC30 rear calliper with the Ti kit I bought a couple of years back. Here are some pics of steel v Ti parts. The kit includes new seals, Ti pistons, slider pins, pad retainer pin, banjo & bleed nipple. Just waiting for the new pads to arrive so I can bolt it back together & start bleeding it.

Yes TBW lag, so as above check power & then check cables as IIRC the 1200 uses TBW via normal throttle cables from the grip to the TBW sensor on the throttle body itself. A mate had a similar issue where water had got into the stepper motor gearbox that moves the throttle plates & it was struggling to react at real time speed.

Looks like the wheel is not damaged & only has cosmetic outer lacquer damage. Waiting on a verdict from BST, but should be restorable to as new look 👍😁 Phew

Re the Orange block, mine looked just like that when I fished it out of the loom, but on further inspection many of the wires going into the connectors in that block were corroded & covered with green oxidation which is not conductive! Check the wires going into the block !

Cheers fellas. Trying to find a replacement wheel. Need one for a trip to NW200 in 4 weeks. BST are a minimum 12weeks lead time & very expensive now, not that they were ever cheap. Will get the tyre off & see to what extent the rim is damaged. 12years old & 33K miles on it so far.

☹️ Discovered I have a broken Carbon rear wheel 😳 😭

Has it got the spring washer under the nut ? Number 24 in this pic.

The expert version is for dyno integration & allows you to modify multiple other settings like rpm & other variables. The standard version only allows fuel & ignition advance changes. That may have been my confusion.

Yes it can happen if they weren't staked properly. But many would never notice, how many people even have a socket for that ?

If you have the RB Racing module, you can register the unit with Dimsport & download the control software. If you meed anything special you can email Dimsport & they will help if possible. I got my rev limit increase that way. I'm currently running 14.2/1 AFR via my MTB wideband 4.9 O2 sensor.

Ah spring arrives in the Netherlands 👍 Finally got my VFR back together yesterday & was going to take it for a shakedown ride today. Then had a strange thought & checked its legal status, no Tax or MoT ☹️ So have to take it for MoT this week before I can get it taxed. Typically the weather forecast for the next 2 weeks is rain ☹️

Hi Mohawk, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I have a carbon heat shield, which I backed with alloy from a disposable baking tray ! This is an early pic from 2012 with the old exhaust. You can see the Blue brake hose, goes over the cushion & into the square hole in left side of the swingarm. Comes out the drain hole underneath just in front of the eccentric hub to the VFR400/750 rear caliper ! I fitted a bleed screw banjo bolt to the M/C to make bleeding simple. This is it from 2016 with TBR exhaust & mini reservoir on the M/C.

I just used a 45degree banjo & ran the hose forward from the MC through the swingarm.

The nut on the end of the wax unit op rod, sets the SV position relative to the wax unit temperature. If the wax unit & its lever brass bearings are operating correctly it should NEVER need adjustment. If the wax unit is NOT operating correctly you can adjust this nut to compensate, but it may not cure your issue. If I were you I'd measure the rod protrusion length, then remove the nut & brass bearing & clean it as it looks like it may be corroded! Reassemble after cleaning & test again. All the wax unit does is push pull the SV (choke) lever based on the coolant circuit temperature. When cold it closes the choke to make the AFR rich, when warm it opens the choke to allow main air control for idle to be by the SV/throttle plate idle screw setting. So if engine cold idles as expected (2-2.5k/rpm) then increases rpm when engine reaches nominal operating temp, the wax unit/SV plate is NOT returning fully to the Open position. The ECU does NOT have a monitor for WAX/SV position, but does have an engine temperature monitor for AFR compensation, hence the high idle speed.

Yep they did & that is where the Yoshi-stacks & my big airbox mod came from. As Larry explains so well, components have to match in the induction & exhaust systems or the harmonics won't work.

Ignore previous. Yes there is search Big Airbox mod 👍

If you do some searching, there is a means to revamp those rubbers make them soft as new. I used engine oil on the inside of mine the first time I had the TB's off, every time since they have been easy to do & flexible 👍

Mine are down 7mm & the rear is raised 2" & its still rock solid stable. But turns much faster than before 👍 So no need to worry.

Sounds like he means the ignition would not turn off. Kill switch will always kill an engine. Flattening the battery is normally a stuck relay keeping a circuit energised. Attach jump leads from a car to bike battery, start car & then pull every relay out of its socket one at a time, there are only a few. You can short cut this by pulling the circuit fuses one at a time until ignition goes off, then you'll know what circuit relay is the likely culprit. Have fun.